It's not the code so you don't have to worry about reprogramming. Most often it is a bad wall control. You can remove the control from the wall and then remove the two wires from the back. Remember which wire goes where. You should try this for awhile to see if it has eliminated your problem. If it hasn't then remove those same two wires from the opener. They go to terminals 1 and 2 and once again remember which went where. One of them should have a small red line called a tracer. Occasionally the normal movement of the opener will cause a staple to cut through the wire insulation and cause a problem like this. You won't get shocked as the voltage is much to low. Good luck.

Thanks, but a couple questions b/4 I begin this process. If removing the wires solves the problem, I then assume that I would have to re-wire the wall control as the wall control would be inoperable during the time the wires are removed?? Also, why does it make a difference if you are removing the wires at the wall control end or the opener end? I guess I may not understand the wiring schematics between the wall unit and opener.

You may have to rewire if the wiring does turn out to be the culprit and you cannot find the staple that is shorting the wires. It is a process of elimination to disconnect the wall control first and then the wiring.

I'm glad somebody asked this. I've been awakened three times in the middle of the night because I hear the garage door opening and closing. The first time I went to the garage just as it was closing. I ran out another door expecting to catch somebody in the driveway, but couldn't find anybody. Then the garage door started opening right behind me and like to have scared the bejesus out of me.

I can't say I've found the pattern to the three events, but I've noticed that if I press the top part of the button on the controller, but button seems to stick down a bit. I'm going to take it apart this weekend and see what I can see.

Actually, I am finding that the top part of the controller may be causing my problem also. I have removed the cover off the top part of the controller to see if that is the problem. There are two tabs on the top of the controller cover that you need to depress in order to remove the cover. It has been about three days now since I removed it and I have had no phantom openings. You can still use the controller. You will see a small blue or green button when you remove the cover. One of the Sears repair persons told me to try that first. If that doesn't solve the problem, then the problem is in the wiring (Staple or something shorting out)and would then have to replace the wiring.