Garage opener: 3 screws, 4 clicks and 5 blinks

16 years ago

My craftsman 1/2 hp opener (back-panel part# 41A5021-2D) has a similar problem of 5 blinks and no movement: pressing the button on the remote gives a click sound on the opener unit and 2 seconds later another click. No other sound or movement. My problem is different from many other posters in that the garage door is in the closed position. I cannot find out how the opener responds in the opened-door position, since I have been unable to operate the opener at all.

Per Don's recommendations on this forum, I played around with the up and down screws on the opener. I noticed that when the Down screw is above a certain point, the opener makes 4 clicks, and below that point the opener makes 2 clicks.

When I opened the cover of the opener unit, it looks like the up and down screws may or may not make contact with a center screw, depending on their position. The center screw and the contacts are visible only when cover is opened. The up-screw is nowhere near making contact with the center screw. But the down screw is close to makign contact with the center screw.

When I turn the down screw so that the down screw does not make contact with the center screw, and press the remote, I hear 4 clicks. When I turn the down screw in the opposite direction so that the down screw makes contact with the center screw, and press the remote, I hear 2 clicks.

I have no clue what is going on with the clicks and the 5 blinks. Help!

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Comments (5)

don_1_2006
16 years ago
When the door is closed the contact for the down limit must be making with the center contact for the door to reverse. I have a feeling your logic board is bad. Have you had lightning?
doorguy06
16 years ago
Those up and down screws are not going to help your situation. The down limit ( or screw ) should be making contact the the center screw as you call it and the up should be no where near the center screw b/c the door opener is in the down position.

The 5 blinks means rpm sensor failure. In other words the motor is locked up or the trolly is stuck on something or you have a bad relay in the circuit board.

#1 Disconnect the door from the opener and see if you can open it manually. If you cannot, you have a door problem, probably a broken spring and need to have that fixed. The opener should still be making some sort of effort to lift the door though.

#2 With the door disconnected from the opener try hitting the opener button and see if anything changes.

#3 If nothing changed with the door disconnected then take off the chain and hit the wall button if the motor runs with the chain disconnected then the trolley was stuck on something. Free the trolley and hook it back up and set the limits. If the motor still just clicks then it is locked up or you have a bad relay in the circuit board and the circuit board needs replaced. Unfortunately I don't have a sure fire way to test and see which one it is ( maybe Don does ) but, I will tell you I have saw the relay go bad more often than I have saw the motor being locked up.
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veerasam
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks for the help.
Don: I have been out of town for 3 weeks, and just got back. I wouldn't be surprised if there was lightning - friends were saying there were a couple of heavy rains.

Doorguy: When I disconnect the door from the opener, I can manually open the door. The opener behaves the same irrespective of the door being connected or not.
Next, I will try disconnecting the chain from the trolley.

I was also thinking if I should connect the non-working board with my other (working) garage opener. The only hesitation is that the non-working back-panel part number is 41A5021-2D, whereas the part# on working one is 41A5021-2C. Any problem if I swap them for testing?
doorguy06
16 years ago
No problem at all, let us know what happens.
veerasam
Original Author
16 years ago
Yes. Board was the problem. When I replaced the board of the non-working opener with the board from the working opener, problem was solved.
Thanks for the help.