Disconnect the door from the opener and see if the opener goes down then. If so adjust the down force slightly. It will be on the back of the unit and will have numbers going in a circle aroundit. One is marke up one is marked down. If adjusting the down force does not help or the opener won't close disconnected from the door post back and let us know.

The disconnected opener goes up and down. Adjustment of force does not help. The door just seems like it runs into something at the hinge point between the bottom panel and the second panel when closing the door. It does the same thing with the opener or when disconnecting the opener and closing it manually. I can't see any thing wrong, like a wheel or hinge, etc.

First clean the lithium grease off asap!! (Brake Cleaner clears it up). This is a Garage Door Taboo due to it thick 7 gums up with dirt & dust. Need to use clear lubricant (i.e. WD-40) at all rollers, hinges and along the track.

The problem that you describe sounds like a problem with resistance on the weatherseal if you have it. The Door Opener will automatically reverse if the w/s gives enough resistance in the cold. Check this out & replace if you have to.

Second, Check Photo-Eyes. Almost sounds that the photo-eye problem - out of aligment causing it to reverse at that location. If you hold down the wall control button continuously and the door goes down, it's the photo-eyes.

The problem you are describing could be a couple of things. Number one if it is doing this with the door disconnected from the opener there is no photo eye problem.

Look on the jambs where the door seems to bind up. IS it really black and beat up looking. If so the tracks maybe set too tight and need to be shimmed or if it has a track nut through the hinge it can be loosened and adjusted.

Number two check to make sure the third or possibly top section is not folding in on you in the up position. If none of these problems exist, I would go ahead and call out a tech to see what is going on.

Solved my problem. I discovered the door was sagging in the center when it was opening or closing. The panels then became pinched and stopped the door movement. I had struts on top and bottom, so I moved the bottom strut to the center and it works like a charm.

Thanks for everyones help, this one took a bit.

My Stanley garage door opener doesn't always fully close without first reversing halfway closed. No, there are no obvious obstructions. However, I do notice it only reverses itself when the carriage bar seems to "bow." Any suggestions as to why the bar tends to bow? Thanks.

Probably because the door is too tight to the jambs creating an OBSTRUCTION and the opener force safety system is sensing this.

What I mean is when a door opens it opens at an angle away from the wall. The vertical tracks are the tracks that the door is in when is it fully closed are adjustable. As the door opens it comes away from the wall and as it closes it gets closeer to the wall. The tracks might be too tight causing the door to jamb up on the way down. Disconnect the door from the opener. Close the door manually. Is it hard to close half way down? If so check to make sure that the door panels are not digging into the door jambs. Check to make sure that one of the sections has not buckled on you when the door is up. If you get to the point where the door is binding up and there is clearance between the door and the jamb look at the 2nd or 3rd section if it is folding inward towards the ground, push it straight up in the middle of the section while pullin the door closed at the same time. The door is being obstructed by something. That is the only way the opener rail is going to bow up.

My craftsmen garage door closes halfway and then backsup. Once done the light beings to flicker for sometime. I am not sure of why this happens but after couple of tries and in some cases 3 to 4 try it closes. Could someone suggest any solution?

Your door sensors are misaligned. Make sure they are pointed at one another and the small light on each is not flickering ever so slightly.

I've disconnected the openner from the door and checked for all obvious mechanical defects in rollers, hinges, etc and everything is good. Upon closing the door manually, it gets to the 3rd fold and binds. The door appears to be sagging in the upper middle section when openned all the way and when trying to close the door the last (upper-most section) trys to fold under the next section.I can push the door panels up by hand while closing the door and it will work fine. There is a steel support channel that is attached at the very top of the door and runs the entire length (16 feet) of the door. I removed it, straightened it, and reinstalled it but the same problem is still there. How could this door be sagging so badly when all the hardware appears O.K. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Incidently, I am an electronic tech working for a big commercial door manufacturer. My job is repairing to component level all of those electronic door controls that drive everyone nuts. Their really not THAT bad folks but they do require some patience when setting them up to work properly.

I have a 10 ten year old Sears 1/2 HP garage door opener (part nbr 41A5021-2F) that will open with no problem but will not close unless coaxed by pressing the remote each time it stops and before it begins to retract. It usually stops 2-3 times during each attempt to close. There are no flashing lights.

I think you need to replace your torsion springs. I found this free video helpful: