Did you remember to replace the black plastic interrupter cup on the end of the motor shaft. Make sure it is press all the way on.

Yes Don, I did put the plastic cap back on the end of the motor shaft, almost forgot originally though. I'm really stumped on this, hoping you guys can figure something out for me. Thanks for your follow up, I really appreciate any help I can get on this.

One thing that puzzles me is you say the door starts to open and then reverses. I think it is starting to close and reverses. Anyway make sure the quick disconnect with 4 wires that connects to the small circuit board by the interrupter cup is plugged in correctly and completely. That small circuit board is what detects something in the way of the door when it is closing and causes it to reverse to the open position. The windows of the interrupter cup runs between the infrared detector and sends a pulse to the logic board. I think at this point that this is where the problem is.

Ok, had some free time yesterday and spent a few hours trying to fix this darn opener. I now got the opener to go all the way up, but it still won't go down more than 6 inches. What I do is trick it by hitting the button on the remote and then hitting it again when it is about to reverse. I do this over and over until the door makes it all the way down (what a pain), then I adjusted it perfectly to stop once it goes all the way up. What I did to get it to go all the way up I'm not even sure. I messed with all the wires to make sure nothing was loose or disconnected, everything was fine though. I just kept playing around with everything and poof, all of a sudden the sucker was going all the way up. Now I need to figure out what to do to get this thing to go down. I have tried over and over using the down force and the other down adjuster, but it does nothing to help this problem. I'm hoping one of you guys will know what is causing this now that I at least got the door to go up fine.

Thanks!

Check the sensors in the door. They each have a small light. Tweak them until each light is on and not flickering. Sometimes the receiving sensor is flickering so slightly that you have to be on your knees to see it. (no kidding) You are making things worse by adjusting things.

Make sure all of the gears are reinstalled tightly. Also take the chain back off and put the door all the way down and put the chain back on and tighten.

My Craftsman GDO 13953525SRT just stop working from the 3 button remote. It works firn from the wall button. I already changed the battery and did the code erase and reprograming procedure but still does not work from the remote. I notice the green LED on the opener unit (close to the light bulb) blinks 4 times and then stays off for a minute to later blink again 4 times. Does anybody know what those 4 blinks mean? I have a similar unit on my other garage door and that LED does not blinks at all.

Thanks.

Raul GM

Don, the sensors are fine, both are lite up solid green, when the door reverses the lights don't flash like they do when the door sensors are obstructed or not working properly. I am really at a loss on why the door won't go down but goes up fine, I'm not sure what else to try.

ALL FIXED!! Thanks Doorguy for your advice on this matter in the other post with the same issue. It was the motor shaft being to far forward and having to much play/slack in the shaft. I had to loosen the nut thingy with the two allen screws in it that goes at end of shaft behind the plastic cap and push the motor shaft back, then tap the nut thingy down further on the shaft and hold it on tightly as I tightened up the allen screws to secure it, causing the slack I had to go away and the door now opens and closes like new!! Thanks a ton for your help on here!!And also thanks to don 1 for your continued help and ideas to try. I couldn't have done this without the help from you guys!!

my remote wont close or open the door as long as the light is lit on the garage door opener?? What's up with that??