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Old, Round Maple Table. Need advice, please. . .

Posted by whatsyurprob (My Page) on
Tue, Jul 6, 10 at 10:47

This table was at a thrift store for $20.00. Someone sprayed it with green paint so amalgamation was out of the question. They used a natural color stain and I can see why. This thing was like painting on gold when I refinished it. Stunning to say the least. I never knew maple wood could look like this. Like polished jewelry. I guess it must be old to get this kind of patina. I wouldn't know though. It has a tag that says it was made by the Northwest Chair Co., who went out of business in the 50's. It's too bad about the original finish. The top coat was like an avocado green it was so old and oxidized. Yeah, , , old. But when I don't know.

Anyway, in the first photo there's a cig burn on the top about 1/4' deep.

Should I color putty it? It's the value, if any, I'm worried about. I scraped out all the char with a butter knife. Stayed inside the concave of it never touching the top. I put a natural stain on it and that's it. Don't want to lacquer it until I get this cig burn fixed, , , or should I leave it?

One more thing. What would anyone use a table like this for? I'm stumped. Sure is Beautiful, but I can't figure that one out.


Here is a link that might be useful: Round Table

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Old, Round Maple Table. Need advice, please. . .

It's a nice, sturdy table. I imagine it was originally meant as an end table.

"It's the value, if any, I'm worried about." Please. Do some research, but the overwhelming chance is it is not a museum quality piece, surviving in pristine condition, with a notable provenance or made by a collectible maker. Despite what you hear on Antiques Roadshow, it's not a $50,000 piece that will degrade in value by half because you've already disturbed that patinated avocado finish. It's a $20 piece that you've already improved the value on.

You have several options regarding the char:

0) Do nothing (always an option). Finish over it and consider it part of the wear and tear. Put a lamp on it when you're done.

1) Fill with a drying putty. This will never be a perfect match with the surrounding wood because it's putty, not wood. You can attempt to blend it in a little better after a couple of coats of finish by using artist's pencils (e.g., Prismacolor) to adjust hue, highlight and grain.

2) Do your finishing and fill with wax crayons in several colors close to the colors you see in the wood at that time. You can do this before or after your final coat of finish.

3) Burn in repair : forget this. It is expensive to get started and has a long learning curve. It's what a professional might do to fill a burn mark in an already finished piece.

Any of the options 1-3 will give you a more or less inconspicuous repair, but if you know where it is, you will still be able to see it. The usual rule is, "If you can see it from 6', it's not so good, if you can see it from 6" it's OK."

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