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saskatchewan_girl

Tiling my own kitchen

saskatchewan_girl
16 years ago

Due to our recent kitchen flood, I am considering tiling my own kitchen with porcelain glazed tile.

I am handy and meticulous but am getting nervous since I haven't done this before. We are limited on $$ and everything $ from our insurance flood claim has snowballed and is costing us at least $8000 above what insurance will cover, so this is why I've decided to "do it myself".

My co-worker has tiled his own home and is positive I can do it and it isn't hard, just time consuming. He is willing to come over and start me going.

Firstly, insurance has prepped the area with 3/4" plywood over my existing subfloor (totalling 1 1/4"), there is one area in the middle of the kitchen where the plywood corners meet where one corner is a tiny bit raised (1/8" or less) do I need to do anything to this?

From what I've read I will need to:

Thinset with mortar (for ditra to adhere to)

laydown ditra or similar

thinset again

place tile and use spacers

Leave house for 24hr

grout and leave house for another 24hrs

Is this correct? Do I continuously check for level too? AAHHHH my nerves are killing me : ( Any idea what the cost is for the other stuff exluding the tile?

TIA

Comments (12)

  • User
    16 years ago

    I would suggest getting John Bridge's book and read through it before tiling for the first time. You will learn a lot and be lot more confident and competent.

    Using ditra over plywood, you need modified thinset to adhere the ditra to the plywood. Then UN-modified (dryset) thinset to adhere the tile to the ditra . You will want to continuously check for lippage to ensure all tiles are laid evenly.

  • weedyacres
    16 years ago

    You can definitely DIY. I read a Black & Decker book on bathroom remodeling earlier this year to learn about tile, and have since tiled a guest bath, master bath, and kitchen, the latter two in conjunction with a total remodel.

    Yes, get rid of that "bump" in your plywood by screwing it down or sanding off the corner or something. And yes, make sure the tiles are level as you're laying them.

    I did my first two tile jobs with Hardibacker, then discovered Ditra, and did the kitchen that way. It's WAY less labor to use Ditra (no putting in screws every 6-8").

    Costs of materials:
    Ditra is about $1.25/sq ft
    Unmodified thinset (I highly recommend Laticrete, as it spreads much more easily; Lowe's sells it) is $8 per 50 lb bag. We used 11 bags on a 230 sq ft floor for both layers.
    Grout depends on what kind you use and how big your grout lines are. I used Spectralock epoxy grout, which is more expensive ($20 per "kit"), and used 3 kits on the 230 sq ft floor, on which I used 1/16" spacers.

    Good luck!

  • saskatchewan_girl
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thanks I will be reading a lot in the next couple days.
    I really think I needed that encouragement weedyacres........I have been watching your transformation since you posted and it inspired me to do the same pattern as yours 1)that was what I wanted to begin with 2) you did it yourself!!!!
    A parent from one of my sons hockey teams is flooring guy (commercial though) and has been giving me hints too.
    Thanks for the $$ info, my kitchen is approx 14.5' x 20' with a 5' x 6.5' porch so it won't be cheap but it will last a long time : )
    Now to shop for some porcelain tile, sooo many to choose from!

  • jerry_t
    16 years ago

    Ditra is fairly straight forward to install. But you must two different types of thinset when going over plywood. Use a modified type underneath , and a non-modified dry-set type to set the tile. Custom's Versabond and their Master Blend dry-set will offer a longer pot life for first time users. Laticrete is good but the pot life is shorter.

    Pick up a wood or magnesium float to set/press the Ditra into the wet bed. Once you have the Ditra down, don't mess with it by trying to pull up an edge a few hours later.

  • airforceguy
    16 years ago

    Not that the people on here are not helpful (they are) but this site is where a lot of pros hang out, and gets a bit more traffic. http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php

    Here is a link that might be useful: John Bridges

  • airforceguy
    16 years ago

    Forgot to ask,where in SK. are you?? I grew up in Prince Albert, parents reside in Saskatoon. Good luck with ur tiling

  • saskatchewan_girl
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    I'm down south near Regina Saskatchewan....Home of the Roughrider!! Nice to hear from another Canuck airforceguy.
    Thanks for the encouragement everyone.......I think that is what I needed most : )

  • airforceguy
    16 years ago

    No No No
    Home of the 2007 GREY CUP Champions Roughriders!!

  • weedyacres
    16 years ago

    Jerry said: "Ditra is fairly straight forward to install. But you must two different types of thinset when going over plywood. Use a modified type underneath , and a non-modified dry-set type to set the tile."

    There is an exception to this: when laying radiant heat wire you used unmodified thinset above and below the Ditra.

  • saskatchewan_girl
    Original Author
    16 years ago

    Thx weedyacres : )
    airforce guy..............OOOOOhhhhh YA! Took the kids down Albert St after the game, what a blast and lasting memory for them!! Have you seen our new sign at the border LOL. The Riders have been touring hospitals and such with the "Cup" visiting kids : ) I'm hoping they get lost in the hospital I work in and wonder into my office LOL.

  • sweet11395
    15 years ago

    weedyacres...not sure your suggestion of unmodified for both layers is correct...

    as stated on the schluster Ditra website they suggest using a latex modified thinset for adhering the DITRA...due to the wood underlayment absorption of moisture I presume might be different if using durarock subbase

    here is their quote

    "Remember, the type of mortar used to apply Schluter-DITRA depends on the type of substrate. The mortar must bond to the substrate and mechanically anchor the fleece on the underside of the DITRA. For example, bonding DITRA to wood requires latex-modified thin-set mortar. Additionally, all mortars (modified and unmodified) have an acceptable temperature range that must be observed during application and curing."

    nothing is mentioned in the section with eletric heating mats in fact latex modified thinset is listed in the materials required.

  • weedyacres
    15 years ago

    On page 12 of the installation instructions it says to layer as follows (bottom to top):
    plywood/OSB
    latex pc mortar
    heating mat
    unmodified thinset
    ditra
    unmodified thinset
    tile

    We used heating wire (not in a mat), so we didn't need to adhere it to the subfloor (we taped it with aluminum tape). So we just went up from the wire: unmodified, ditra, unmodified, tile. If we had used a mat, we would have needed to use modified thinset underneath it, but still unmodified to adhere the ditra.

    Fair clarification.

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