Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
annjil_gw

porcelain planks flooring, subfloor hardibacker, protegga

annjil
9 years ago

I need to know if this is correct. Installing 6x36 porcelain wood planks over entire main floor of townhouse 400 sq ft, includes a bathroom, kitchen, hallway and living room. I had 4 estimates with all different ways of installations. I chose an installer that was recommended. I saw his work and it was very good. He also sent pictures.

We removed tile and carpet ourselves to help save some costs. There was 5/8" OBS subfloor. 16" joists, (cross supports) and span is 11'. running with joists. Tile will run length wise not across joists, down towards 17' hallway 4' wide. There was ceramic tile in kitchen, bathrm, hallway, and then carpet in 18 x 11 living room, which all was removed.
We had damaged some small areas in hallway. About 6" round in 2 spots when removing tile. He said subfloor was in good shape and no need for plywood. But there was some areas not level, and some unevenness at joints of OBS.
Installer wanted me to use Leveler in these areas and over entire floor. But supply store said can not use leveller on OBS. So installer suggested 1/4" Hardibacker, and then on top of that a membrane called Protegga. (he said does same as Ditra) so he started area of 18' x 11' in living rm.
Subfloor OBS was screwed down heavily with 2" floor screws, vacuumed and wiped well. He put down layer of mortar Magniflex Super 8820 Polymer-Modified floor and wall tile mortar immediately applied Hardibacker on top wet mortar, but then stapled ALOT of 1" wide galvanized staples, all over the boards randomly.

BUT also down the some of the seams binding the seems or joints together. He did not keep the fasteners 3/4" from joints or 2" down from corners as instructions of installation. He was going to omit joint tape said i did not need it, but i insisted and bought it for him to use, I told him this is for allowing slight movement of the entire surface holding it together.

So he did apply the Fibatape alkali-resistant down all joints and seams but did not embed it in mortar. Some boards have the 1/8" spacing but the one stapled together are butted, and perimeter all has most 1/4" from walls, that is as far he is at this point, he intends to apply the mud down joints and seams afterwards.(tape was not embedded)

After he does this he will let dry a day, and then he will then apply another layer of thin set over entire area of Hardibacker and then apply the membrane Protegga, he will then lay the porcelain planks over top of this membrane in thin set with 1/2" trowel. Wait a day before appyling non sanded grout.

Does this sound correct, I am worried of the staples down the seams and joints as this does not allow for expansion. This was very expensive floor and i want it to last for many years.

Is he doing anything that can affect this, and should I remove the staples at the seams? He is not back for another 2 days as his staple gun broke down.
Sorry for the long entry, but did not know how to explain.
thanks much.

This post was edited by annjil on Sun, Nov 23, 14 at 17:33

Comments (5)

  • jellytoast
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I would question stapling the Hardibacker as it should be nailed or screwed, and plank tiles need medium bed mortar for installation rather than regular thin set.

    Do you mind if I ask how you chose this installer over the other three that you got estimates from?

    (You might want to post your questions on the John Bridge tile forum).

    This post was edited by jellytoast on Thu, Nov 20, 14 at 10:30

  • millworkman
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "He is not back for another 2 days as his staple gun broke down"

    Really, that is his excuse? That actually may be a good thing as he should not even have a staple gun in your house. Nothing in your installations sounds correct to me and I really have no idea about tile other than what I have read. And I agree with Jelly about why this guy was chosen?

  • annjil
    Original Author
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    thank you jellytoast, and mil workman for your reply

    He had good references and did work for some people at our church we go to.

    He was very expensive. I believed he knew what he was doing until I started to see things or hear what he was going to do. I also went to the Hardie website previous and realized he was not follow instructions.

    He is actually a very nice person but social has nothing to do with it anymore, now this is business and a lot of my money.

    I paid him a large deposit for supplies already and he has the tile in his possession that I also already paid for.

    But i went to the site you said John Bridge. They told me to stop the job.

    I did . I confronted him we discussed it. He agreed to remove it and absorb the loss.

    After I explained my situation and the condition of floor they told me about 'deflection' and now that is where I am. Job is on hold I am looking for a carpenter to look at the joists underneath.

    Plus I am scraping off the motor of the Hardi that was left behind.

    I am at a standstill right now. Dont know what is coming or what to expect. NOt one installer even mentioned anything about weight or joists or deflection of any kind.

    So i think if it wasn't this one it would have been any of the others i guess.

    Any ideas greatly appreciated.

  • AliceHasLeftTheBuilding
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    With OSB rather than plywood, your floor is likely not structurally sound enough for tile, particularly large-format tile. You will probably have far too much deflection, resulting in cracked joints and/or tiles. The hardibacker adds dimensional stability, but NOT structural strength. Additionally the hardi was not installed correctly according to manufacturer's specs, so you will have no warranty protection. Boot your installer and find someone to do it correctly. The forum mentioned by other posters is an excellent place to start.

  • millworkman
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You may want to find a structural engineer and ask about the deflection and if your floor system can handle the wight of the tile.