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ellen1234_gw

4" white oak hardwood flooring - should it be glued?

Ellen1234
9 years ago

Hi,

I had 4" white oak installed on my main floor last summer. Long story but it immediately cupped (I live in the midwest where it can get humid). The installer told me over time they will flatten out. They were only nailed.

I'm now looking to have my entire upstairs done in the same wood.... getting various quotes. The installer I had over yesterday said they glue everything over 4". I asked him about the cupping downstairs and he mentioned the humidity from the basement may have affected the plywood subfloor and then the hardwood planks. He said if they'd been glued, they wouldn't have cupped.

What is the recommended installation method for 4" white oak? My concern about gluing is the permanence of it - would the subfloor have to be replaced to replace the wood?

I could still request it just be nailed if I want.

Thanks!

This post was edited by Ellen1234 on Fri, Nov 21, 14 at 12:42

Comments (6)

  • millworkman
    9 years ago

    Is this the same installer who installed the first floor oak?

  • Ellen1234
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Heck no.

  • millworkman
    9 years ago

    I am still concerned about his statement that the first floor would not move if it was glued. This is simply not true, wood moves, if the floor cannot move and the conditions are not correct something else will rip apart of the flooring cannot move. I would be leery of this guy as well. Just my .02 cents.

  • Ellen1234
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for your input.

    Do you happen to know whether there is any rule about whether 4" white oak should be glued???

    I don't particular like the cupping, but the floor is beautiful so it's not the end of the world... my preference would be just to have it nailed... unless gluing prevents squeaks????

  • jfcwood
    9 years ago

    I'm in Florida but recommend the same, gluing of any hardwood OVER 4" wide. Gluing in addition to nailing can reduce the tendency to cup. I've noticed that the difference between 4" and 5" is significant. I did a job many years ago that was a 3", 4" and 5" combination. I went to look at it years after completion and could see that while the 3" and 4" boards still looked flat, the 5" boards were a little concave. For 5" and wider I also acclimate the boards under climate controlled conditions with strips of wood between the layers of plank to allow for air circulation. On your first floor inclusion of a moisture/vapor barrier would likely have kept your floor flat, but it's a double edged sword. A barrier can also prevent moisture from escaping if you encounter a minor leak.
    Upstairs you could use 3-1/4", probably save money and have an even more stable floor.
    When we do glue and nail wood plank, we use a full spread adhesive, either a urethane or solvent based glue like Stauf WFR930. It is hell to tear up if needed, but a solid wood plank should outlast you, unless you have a mishap.

  • millworkman
    9 years ago

    Yes, that was what I was alluding to as JFC states, I was posting quickly and did not explain myself fully. AS JFC also says it will help it not cup but if you do not have HVAC and a steady indoor climate it will cup regardless.