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scotkight

Transition from 3/4" hardwood TnG to Laminate

scotkight
10 years ago

I have to transition from hardwood in a hallway to a laundry room with laminate. I'm not putting hw in that room.

The laminate is standard stuff overtop of a glued down 1/4" bit of wood.

Previously had carpet with a metal transition between the laminate and the carpet. Of course this means the cut under the door is jagged, since they didn't need precision as it would be covered up by the transition piece.

Now I need to figure out a way to cleanly go between the two. I had assumed a reducer, since thats what everyone seems to suggest, but I didn't think the edge of the laminate and 1/4" wood would be so screwed up, and now I'm not sure what to do. Maybe a t-transition between wood and laminate? Or should I try to create my own reducer that runs over the laminate out of some extra flooring? (undercut the edge and bevel the bottom, leaving only a slight lip over the laminate.

Or do I straighten the cut and use the original reducer? If so, how the heck do I do that? It would need to be very straight and it is glued down so.. I'm a bit baffled as to how.

Making it a touch more challenging is the doorway is 45 degrees from the direction the wood is running. Not a big deal, but something to consider.

Comments (2)

  • jfcwood
    10 years ago

    Laminate reducers generally attach to the subfloor and lay over, but not on, the laminate itself.
    You need something that will butt into the 3/4" wood and overlap the laminate. My preference would be to undercut/rabbet a reducer using a table saw or a router table. Let's say the laminate is 3/8" thick. Set the table saw so the blade sticks up 3/8". Look at the 3/4" reducer and determine how far back you want the undercut to go and set the saw guide accordingly. Run the reducer through the saw repeatedly, with the 3/4" side toward the guide, moving the guide further from the blade after each pass. Once you end up with what looks something like a bit of an L, sand or cut the sharp edge that will overlap the laminate and put some finish on it. Install it at the laminate edge then cut your wood pieces to it tight as you install the floor.
    Another way to achieve the same thing would be to make a 3/4" wide thin cardboard template. Draw the profile of your stock reducer on the cardboard then cut it out using scissors. Trim it to look like the L I described but with a slight flat spot on the edge that will overlap the laminate and see how it fits. Using the table saw, cut the edge that will overlap the laminate, set the saw and cut the horizontal cut with the reducer standing vertically, flat edge against the saw guide, laminate edge side down, then make the one vertical cut with the reducer oriented horizontally, 3/4" thick edge against the saw guide. You can always practice on a scrap to make sure you won't ruin your reducer.
    Respect you table saw!. It can take a chunk out of you or toss something back at you if you get it crooked or try to force it.
    Basically what you're trying to make is a T mold that is only undercut on one side and butts up to the 3/4" thick floor. Sort of like this:
    http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41YHKQYNC4L._AA300_.jpg
    Of course this one would be flipped over so the recess would overlap the laminate.

  • scotkight
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thats a great idea for the reducer. Super simple and I don't waste the money I spent on it! (always a bonus)

    Thank you very much!

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