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Wood floor to wood floor doorway transition

Posted by arc2v (My Page) on
Mon, Nov 21, 11 at 9:17

We are installing 3/5/7 random width 4 side bevel oak flooring in our great room remodel. I wove it into existing (a pain in and of itself).

We are 90% done, but now I am a bit stuck. It is about to run into the doorway to the dining room, which is 2" flat oak flooring (tight, no bevel or gaps). So the transition will be oak to oak, but they are different styles.

My options:
1) dead into the old floor (very precise cuts, no room for error, have to redress the bevel on the cut edges)
2) plain oak board sideways in the doorway and dead into it from both sides. The old dining room floor is perfectly straight, but I'm not sure how I'd cut the existing floor across in a doorway. No room to get a saw or router in there, at least not all the way.
3) get it close and use a transition strip. I hate elevation changes, and right now the first floor has none, including three different floors (slate entry, wood in living/dining, and wood in the family/kitchen)

Am I missing an option? What is commonly done? When I google this, I get mostly results for tile to wood or wood to linoleum -- that kind of stuff.

Thanks in advance!


Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Wood floor to wood floor doorway transition

"not sure how I'd cut the existing floor across in a doorway. No room to get a saw or router in there, at least not all the way."

You do the ends by hand (back saw and chisel come to mind).

You could try a multi-tool to speed it up a little.

reRE: Wood floor to wood floor doorway transition

One way I have used repeatedly is to lay the second floor reasonably tightly to the first, then route out a recess to hold a flush filler strip.

It is a lot easier to make the filler strip fit tightly (like beveling both long edges) and then hide the few face nails required.

RE: Wood floor to wood floor doorway transition

Okay, I think I see what you are getting at.

I should be able to lay flooring into the doorway with ease and then maybe screw down a straightedge to the door frame (or pocket screw it in place) and route a perfect line. Then it would be alot of small adjustments, but I'd rather do that on one filler strip than every floor board.

I should have said, the boards meet this doorway edge on, that is, the boards are the long part of the T and the doorway is the top of the T.



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