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Hardwood, a door and the top of the stairs

Posted by scotkight (My Page) on
Mon, Oct 14, 13 at 14:51

I am putting 3/4" hardwood into my bedroom and the main hallway in my townhouse. The bedroom is in the back of the house, and the hallway runs about 15ft straight to the front of my house from my room.

Joists run side to side in the house and the bedroom had the longest straightest wall so i started there. Going from the back to the front of the house, and the door is on the "front" of my room.

If I stand in the doorway of my room I look down the hallway to the front of my house, no turns or anything (Im ending it with a reducer to the carpet in the other bedrooms rooms). If I look directly to my right, I have my stairs.

I'm a bit confused as to how to match the wood in the room to the hall and to the stairs. I could put a piece in the doorway as a "stop" to the wood in the room, then put a spline in the bullnose and run backwards? I'd end up having to cut the boards short when they hit the other side of the hallway which I thought was a bad idea (would be difficult to make everything look straight). If I go from the long hallway wall to the stairs, how would I mate the wood with the bullnose? I think I think I'll be an inch or an inch and a half off.

Or should I somehow be continuing the wood directly from the bedroom without the stop/header piece?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Hardwood, a door and the top of the stairs

Can you take a pic. I think i have an idea of what you are trying to say but a picture of the dilema would be helpful for proper advice


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RE: Hardwood, a door and the top of the stairs

This is a picture out of the bedroom door to the stairs. The hallway is to the left and is 44" wide I believe.


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RE: Hardwood, a door and the top of the stairs

Wow. The flooring in the picture is beautiful. What kind of floor is it? We are shopping for hardwood now.


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RE: Hardwood, a door and the top of the stairs

I think i get what you are trying to do. If im wrong then i might need a little more info.

But lets give it a go.

Since you are doing prefinish ripping a board down in width can and will look a little funny since each board is probably beveled?

A couple of options. You could put a header at your bedroom door. And then run off the nosing. You might get lucky and have the boards line up pretty close off the header to get that mirrored look. You could dry fit the nosing and the measure off on board the in bedroom and take a quick calculation to see where they would line up.

The other idea is no header and run the wood into the hall and then what to do when you get to the nosing. Well how big is the nosing? 5"? 3"?

When you get to the nosing with that last board you could rip either the nosing or that last plank to size then sand the edge to mimic the bevel and then slap a little finish on it.


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RE: Hardwood, a door and the top of the stairs

It is tigerwood. Really, really heavy stuff. I love the look, but it is a bit of a pain to work with. Got a very good deal from brazilianhardwood.com... Should have seen the guy trying to get that stuff off the truck ;)

It is really hard stuff so my saw blades wobble a bit when cutting. This is an issue if I do the header idea mentioned above, which I think I'm going to have to do. I'd be about 2" off doing a bit of laying out of boards :-/

As for the header, I get clean, but not perfectly straight cuts. Same thing on my chop as my 8" saw. Next I'll try my table saw, but it is buried deep in my garage. I have to figure out how to make a perfectly tight straight cut for that so the boards will all match up.

Nosing is 5".


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RE: Hardwood, a door and the top of the stairs

A really good saw blade is worth its weight in gold my friend.


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RE: Hardwood, a door and the top of the stairs

Yep, the best one is on my tablesaw. 100% straight.

So now I am at the point of doing the header. (The wood in the hallway and carpets are gone)

My first thoughts were to cut a piece to fit exactly in the middle of the door jamb, with the spline facing into the bedroom and temporarily mount it. I would then have to cut each end piece from the main floor to fit, and then cut a slot in each to fit the spline from the header.

Nail in each piece and then slide in the header and face nail.


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