Install, sand, stain - 2 coats finish. Install cabinets & trim out room, touch up and apply final coat(s), move in.

You have a flat floor with some protection underneath and have the opportunity to repair the small blemishes that are sure to come from the cabinet installation. Plus you have far less chance of damaging the cabinets.

Anyone have pictures of a white oak floor with Waterlox?

I believe ccoombs1 has qtr sawn white oak with waterlox, you can do a search for her pics.

TP; see my post under "A Few Comments About Waterlox", perhaps now on the second page. The photo shows a bit glossy, as it was taken with the first coat of satin which had not yet dried in.

I used 1/4 Cabbots Gunstock with my first coat of Wlox and am very pleased with the results. Come to think of it, it is also Graf Bros, 4" white oak, rift/qtrd stock. Nice stuff....

I'm so jealous! I really wanted a rift cut white oak floor. But because of cost and Waterlox drying time (and smell), I've order some cheap BR-111 engineer flooring. Still waiting for delivery.

Enjoy your floor!

Oh, a couple years ago I posted on a professional hardwood flooring board about white oak and Waterlox and they said it would be beautiful!

Kaib, I read your post from before about Waterlox, it sounds great. A couple questions...I have an open floor plan and will finish the whole first floor. Since we are living on one side at a time (sounds like fun, eh?) I can only do half. There is a logical break for where to stop, but from your experience do you think they will blend together when I continue on with the second half? I'm not sure if this is a great idea, but I dont have another option.

I can tell you what I know and what I think I know.

I know you cannot mess Waterlox up without making huge errors (even they are correctable). As I was doing my sample boards I tried to apply too thickly, too thinly, leave dust on and create bubbles with a brush. The dust sanded right off with a very light 100 grit rub, bubbles rarely happened, too thick seemed not to matter (up to a point) and too thin is a non-issue.

I researched some fine posts here for over a year - and I think I know the following: If you're forced to stop a finish (as I also may be), the best place would be the obvious door, room change or shodow line...in our house, that would be the end of the Island going further into the great room.

I'd be inclined to tape off there for an abrupt stop. When time comes to begin the next area, I'd yank the tape, feather the line with 100 grit and finish out the second area. You may notice it, but nobody else will - the biggest thing in my mind is the stain/Waterlox ratio - keep it constant by shaking the stain well always and measuring constantly (I also wouldn't use held over stain for the second run, buy a new can).

I think we'll both be fine with a break. I also will do it at a junction between two dissimilliar (sp) boards.

We will be forced to install cabs before the floor goes down. As the Graff is 5/8", I will underlay the cab footprint with 5'8" ply, leave it proud of the footprint and then come back with a rotozip and cut it beneath the toe kick (this implies I will use shoemould). No issues here, and this insures that the floor, when done, will not have appliances and work traffic.

If ever we sell and new folks want to re-do the Island or cabs, the new owner will, of course, hate me...

typeproof, have you chosen your stain yet? You mention a chestnut color. I am about to refinish my 100 year old white oak floors and am thinking about staining them medium color. Right now they are a lovely old amber color (haven't been refinished for at least 20 years) but I'm worried the sanding will turn them light gray and I don't want that!

Marita, I am still in a tizzy about this as I have to live in the house at the same time and it needs to be done asap. I think I will start a new post and see if anyone can help me!

Hi! im thinking of doing solid white oak vs. an engineered or hybrid floor. How did it turn out? Pictures???