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Repairing Water Damaged Floor

Posted by kitchenkrazed09 (My Page) on
Mon, Oct 24, 11 at 9:19

I have Santos Mahogany flooring that was site-finished 8 months ago with Bona Traffic in the satin finish. When the baseboard covers were installed, the heating pipe was punctured, which leaked water and caused the floor to buckle in a section about 3' x 10' or so.

My contractor is having his floor refinisher repair it. Can the refinisher just sand and refinish the section that was damaged, as opposed to resanding the entire floor? I know when it is freshly sanded, the red color of the mahogany will show more than the rest of the floor. (The first time it was sanded, the red was very bright and then calmed down quite a bit after a couple of days.) Will the color of the refinished section eventually fade enough to match the remaining floor or will it always be behind? (The entire floor has been and still is covered by rosin paper and then thick cardboard to protect it during the remaining construction, so it hasn't seen much sunlight. I also haven't noticed much color change in it since after the first week it was sanded.) Thanks very much in advance!

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Repairing Water Damaged Floor

Yes, if: The floor has been completely dried, it was not so wet as to crush the side fibers leaving permanent gaping, or the boards buckled enough to pull the fasteners
The color will rematch over time.

Sanding of only the damaged portion will be much more pleasing if there is a logical cut off along the length of that section of the floor.

Red rosin paper is a BAD idea. It will leach color into the finish if it becomes wet for any length of time. That makes it too risky for me to use it.

RE: Repairing Water Damaged Floor

Thanks so much for the information, Woodfloorpro. The floor is completely dry and the buckling was not too severe. I am glad to hear that the color will eventually match.

Thanks for the info about the rosin paper. I incorrectly stated that I used rosin paper, when I meant to say kraft paper. I did my research ahead of time and thanks to the knowledgeable people here on GW, I used the kraft paper to avoid the color leaching.

Well, that's funny, after I wrote the above, I looked up the old post (linked below) where it was recommended to use kraft paper and it was written by you, Woodfloorpro. So, thank you!

Here is a link that might be useful: How to protect wood floors during construction

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