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Thu, Aug 30, 12 at 8:43
| We had a water disaster in our new home. The hardwood floor in living room an hallway got wet. We did soak up all the water we could soon as water was found. Did get dehumidifier in there right away along with several fans blowing across the floor.
Several weeks of dehimidifier an fans seems to have saved the floor it's been 2 months the floor seems fine. What would be a good conditioner or preservative to use on the floor. I don't want slick or high gloss. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by GreenDesigns (My Page) on Thu, Aug 30, 12 at 10:37
| Nothing. Properly sealed wood doesn't need "conditioning" or "preserving". If the original finish isn't compromised, then normal cleaning with a barely damp mop is all the wood needs. If the original finish is coming off, then only a resand to the bare wood and refinish will be appropriate. Avoid using Murphy's Oil soao or those orange oil based crap as that will only ruin the floor. If you want something stronger than plain water to clean with, then use a hardwood floor clean approved by one of the major manufacturer's like Bruce or Bona. |
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| Did your floor begin to cup at all? |
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- Posted by clueless1959 (My Page) on Sat, Sep 1, 12 at 8:22
| Only a couple of the boards. We was really lucky there. As a kid mom used Johnsons paste wax on hardwood floors seems there has to be an easier way now days. I want to protect from scrates ect not make the floor slick. |
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- Posted by live_wire_oak (My Page) on Sat, Sep 1, 12 at 11:25
| A factory applied finish is all the "protection" that any floor needs. If you apply wax or oil treatments to it, you ruin any possibility of a screen and recoat. The poly won't adhere if there is wax or oil residue on the floor, and you can never clean it well enough to remove all of the residue. You would have to sand down to the bare wood and start over if the floor became dull through wear. As long as the original finish is intact, screening and recoating every 5-10 years can extend the life of the wood indefinitely. |
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