Plank floor length Historical wood floor preservation

9 years ago

I intend to replace our dining room and living room floor (carpet with pad already removed, in the process of removing particle board underlayment) with 1x8 #2 yellow pine planks

My 'estimation' of the dining room was 12' square. In actuality, it is 11.5' x11' 4"..

I plan to run the boards width wise to make the long room appear wider.

The planks are 8" wide by 8' long.

Total maximum length in inches they can span is 138".

My troubles are calculating at what length to evenly cut the boards where I make as few cuts as possible, while minimizing waste, as they are not cheap!

I would prefer no boards be shorter than 4'. .

Our home is crappy country style, and I want the floor to look rustic, crappy-country, old-fashioned (think early 1800's to primitive pioneer America). I want it to take all the crap my family can dish out : spills, pee, scratches, dents, etc) I don't mind the scratches, dents, etc... But I want them to add character to the floor with the finish, not have poly peeling up.

My plans are to face nail (directly through the wood, with the head exposed) the planks to the subfloor (diagonal 1x6 planks?), leaving 1/8 -1/4 inch gaps between the boards intentionally.

I also know we are going to stain it using Minwax English Chestnut, Wood Finish, Penetrates Stains & Seals.

My concern is with the finish coat. I initially wanted an oil rubbed finish, but everyone I spoke with and everything I have read suggests that I must use Linseed oil (which is not available here) or tung oil, which I was told needs a 24 hour drying time. Simply not feasible at the moment.

I then thought about a waxed floor, using just S.C.Johnson paste wax to seal and finish the floor. I am okay with buffing and re waxing spots that get super worn. People tell me it won't protect against water damage (spills)

I was left with the option of polyurethane..

I DO NOT WANT SHINE OR GLOSS, so the only thing available was a clear satin.

I have some huge concerns: I have three very, very, very destructive kids, and a hubby who is the same, as well as two rowdy dogs (one is a black lab).

My worries are with it holding up.

I was reading about application of poly, as everyone has tried to talk me out of wax and oil - and I saw all the things that can screw up and result in the whole floor being re sanded and re-sealed. I don't want to have to do that. I also don't want to worry about it getting scratched up by my dogs, kids, and husband.

I am completely at a loss at what to do. I can't leave it 'raw' so what do I need to use over the top of the stain for some sort of water protection. I am okay with scratches and dents.

I'm also limited to what I can get at Walmart, Home Depot, or Lowes.

Thanks a million in advance!

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Comments (3)

sombreuil_mongrel
9 years ago
Have you thought of a flat-finish for the varnish? then you get longevity and protection but a matte finish which looks like bare waxed wood.
Flooring you must plan for 10% waste, unless you're content with pieces under 12".
I think for a 12' room you could have found room-length boards, and random width from 4" to 8" would give a true vintage look.
We finished the ground floor of a historic house with wax over stain. It truly looked glorious for about 6 months, until the wax wore off, then it looked just sad. The lady of the house had intended to maintain it, but found herself occupied with other more fun things. This was it in its glory:

We had to take up the floorboards, plane them down and then re-install them, weaving in new salvaged heart pine as we went to make up for the board feet lost to rot, insect damage, and the re-milling.

So that's what a waxed finish can look like on 1818 heart pine.
Casey
glennsfc
9 years ago
Casey and OP,

Thanks for the pictures. As you suggest to the OP, a similar looking result can be achieved with a film-forming finish in flat (matte). Doing so yields a floor that looks like stained and waxed, but without the maintenance headaches.

You can get professional use finish materials. Some can be sent to you by UPS or another package service, if you can't find them at a local flooring materials distributor. Let your fingers on your keyboard find sources. For example, Bona US lists distributors for its products on its website.
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lazy_gardens
9 years ago
Consider Velvet Oil ?? And pre-stain the boards and put one coat of sealant on all sides, then nail them down.

You will be probably be unhappy with that floor as described.
The boards will trap crud in the cracks, and shrinkage will make the cracks even wider.
The edges will splinter and jam into your feet.
The boards will cup despite the face nailing.
The nails will pull out and slice your feet.

(been there, done that and have the scars on my feet to prove it).

===========
To use the least wood, cut some boards in half, cut some into a 6/2 split and use the rest as 8-foot. It will tend to look "brick wall" unless you are really careful with the layout.

12-foot boards would give you wall-to-wall planks, if the extra cost is worth it.