Tara, you can do all of this yourself...if you are willing to get stain and poly-ed!

I use mechanic's rags to apply stain....i know a lot of people use foam, or brushes...but I mop on the stain in copious amounts, then spread by swirling it with the rags. Try, at first, using a smaller amount on the rag, then as your confidence increases, use more stain from the bucket. You can 'feather' into dry areas using this method, so any stain that is drier than what you are applying will not leave a noticeable edge. Also, be sure to tape off your existing molding at edges where the stain will probably hit. You want LESS work, not more.

BE SURE you stir the stain sufficiently...most pigmented stains will lie on the bottom of the container. I use a paint mixer attached to a drill to do this...you're probably gonna splatter, so go outside with this, then seal up your stain can before bringing inside.

I apply 2 coats of high gloss spar poly first, then apply two coats of satin. I sand in between with 0000 steel wool, then vacuum, then take a damp rag and hand mop the whole area to pick up any fine pieces the vac didn't get. The high gloss poly has no flatteners, and is therefore a much harder poly than the satins with flatteners. Produces a very durable, long lived surface.

I don't know, but it would be worth me paying the extra money to not have to breathe in the fumes. Make sure you get a good respirator to protect yourself.

don, what do you do about the fumes? Are you conditioned to it so much now that you don't notice? I'm okay with lungs....meaning I'm not as sensitive as some. Do you recommend a brand name for the high gloss spar poly (ignorance bleeding through, what is "spar"?)...does the paint mixer make bubbles in the stain? I'm guessings rolling it from side to side for a few minutes won't mix it well?

Any pics of the floors you use this technique on? Most floor finishers around here just put 2 coats of poly, I LOVE the idea of putting 2 and then 2 satin on top...I'm just thinking by the third coat, I'll be tired of sanding and polishing the floor to ready for the next coat.

Do you use a sponge brush around the edges next to the molding? I wish I could apprentice a floor finisher for a few days! :) I just hate to mess these pretty floors up! :)
Thanks for the guidance y'all!
Tara

I fully appreciate trying to save money - I know how things add up. I just thought I'd let you know that $500 to stain 1100 sq. ft. is a pretty good price I think. I was quoted $1.00/sq ft to stain and you are at under $.50. This probably doesn't help you at all, but if you do decide to have your floor guy do it, I think you are getting a good price. Good luck - I look forward to seeing your floors.

Hey Polka! I have been so very blessed with all my contractors, they have come highly recommended and have all been hard workers and so considerate...when I see what others are being charged I get very thankful very quick! I bought the #1 common white oak for $2 per sq. foot (3.25 inch wide) and paid $1.50 per sq. ft to have it laid (they did an amazing job cutting in my flushmount registers and doorways...I would have no problem paying this great floor refinisher to do it all for $2.50 per sq. foot if I knew our home had sold...we're carrying 2 mortgage payments so if I can save the $1500 to do these steps, it will save my poor husband from having to work overtime to pay for it (I mean double overtime, he's already working overtime!) I guess with seeing him work so hard I'm trying to do everything I can to reduce the burden. Plus, we homeschool our kids and I think the hard labor is a good lesson...one it teaches them how hard it is to earn a dollar and makes them appreciate how hard manual labor is and respect those who do it with talent and care. Now, they're not doing too much labor but they do help me paint and enjoy pulling out carpet tacks! :)

I'll post the pictures as we get them! Here's a shot of the main living space..we openend up the wall there and it makes it very homey! :)

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