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Refinishing 100 yr old white pine floor

Yardley
12 years ago

Hello! We recently purchased our first home, a 100+ year old cozy little town house with great wide plank pine floors. A local restored wood place from which we ordered a few replacement planks told us it is white pine. The living room floor is in pretty rough shape compared to the rest of the house and we want to have it refinished. I've had two floor guys come take a look and they've both suggested polyurethane, seems like that's the standard. I'd love to hear suggestions as to how to go about refinishing the floor and what products to use. I don't want anyone to damage these beautiful old floors! We also want them to look as close to the rest of the house as possible after they're refinished. Here is a picture of the living room floor now, this is the section we're going to repair with the restored wood planks.

Comments (13)

  • powermuffin
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Our 100+ year old floors are fir. They were sanded and coated with spar varnish, which has a nice look for old floors. I think poly tends to look plastic, especially the water-based poly. I would test the poly before you do the whole floor.
    Diane

  • glennsfc
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You have many options...there really is no standard or 'right way' to finish wood flooring. Research the myriad of products out there to get an overview. You will be amazed at the different products used to finish wood.

    Whatever you decide as your finishing product, what you want on these floors is a soft sheen, not a shine, unless you're a fan of that look.

    Also...the person you hire to work this floor is very important. You want to find someone who will take the time to blend the new with the old and knows how to do that.

  • Yardley
    Original Author
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It's frustrating, I've had two floor guys come out and they've both said they'll use oil based poly. I have a feeling they'll all say that.

  • Yardley
    Original Author
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Casey, thanks so much for the detailed response. Waterlox sounds like a great product, problem is none of the floor guys that have given me an estimate have even mentioned it. They all say they use oil based poly, I even asked one guy about Waterlox and he didn't really know what it was and asked isn't that for decks? My floors are 1" thick so I think there's a lot of room for sanding. Can a floor expert look at a floor in person and kind of be able to tell what finish is on there? I ask because I'd love to know what is on the office floor, its a little darker than the living room and has a bit more shine. Here are some crappy phone pics of the office floor, I have to take some better pictures with my SLR.

  • brickeyee
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "My floors are 1" thick so I think there's a lot of room for sanding."

    If it is tongue and groove the distance to the top of the tongues and grooves is the important number.

    You typically need to leave a pretty good amount of wood over them to prevent cracking.

  • sombreuil_mongrel
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    There appear to be two places in the photos where that awful event has taken place already; sanding through to the tongues.
    Casey

  • Yardley
    Original Author
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Casey, I think what you're referring to is just a crack. I'll inspect the floor closer but I don't think any of the boards have been sanded down to the tongue.

  • brandygirl
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have to agree with the Waterlox guys! Great product and will give you a hand rubbed finish not a plastic look like from most polys. Check out www.paintsource.net. I hear they a pretty good about getting this out. I live in CA and it is about 100$ per gall per 500 square feet for the satin/sealer. It is a 4 coat process with no sanding between coats. Follow manufactures guidelines. I just applied it to hickory and it looks AWSOME!

  • sombreuil_mongrel
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi,
    no sanding only if there is no raised grain or "junk" in the finish. In my above-pictured floor, I sanded after coats one and three, to great advantage.
    Casey

  • Yardley
    Original Author
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi all, so I had the floors repaired with reclaimed white pine which is what I was told my original floors are. However, after sanding everything down, the reclaimed wood looks very different than the original. The picture below is test patch with sealer applied. The lighter wood is my original floor and the darker is the "reclaimed" wood, again this is with sealer applied. I really need some help/suggestions on getting the two to match. I wanted to go with a clear coat but I think the difference is too noticeable between the two and it would look like a big patch.

    In this picture you can see the patch/repair against the rest of the floor. I have a repair like this in every room in the house.

  • dirtslinger2
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I am NO EXPERT but that patch looks like fir or something other than white pine. Or is that what heart wood looks like? Never seen it.
    Should the baseboards not be off for refinishing?
    The old planks look great.

  • tectonicfloors
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I agree with Yardley. Thanks for sharing your detailed response.