Assuming 3/4 inch tongue and groove solid beech. And water damage that does not include cupping.

Totally unreasonable, unless you have a crew of experienced professionals or are willing to settle for poor results and spend a week at the chiropractor's and massage therapist afterward.

Just prepping the edges with a hand-held sander would be a more than a full day working on hands and knees. After a day of waltzing with an orbital sander, you won't be moving very fast. If you edge first, trying to use the orbital sander the day after finishing the hand sanding will be really rough.

Sanding 1500 square feet of anything in one day is physically a killer unless you are physically fit and experienced at waltzing with heavy floor machines. The day after you will be lucky to be able to move your arms to feed yourself.

"Hitting it hard" with low grit is asking for swirl marks and a crappy finish, especially as the day wears on and your arms wear out and lose control.

You need to do one coarse and one finish grit.

Cleanup of all the sanding dust ... clean, let it settle and clean again ... easily a day you didn't allow for in your schedule. Dust can get stirred up by the breeze of your walking by, and it wrecks the finish.

Application and drying time for any sealant ... allow one full day per coat. 1500 square feet is several hours of careful spreading.

As for sealing it: Waterlox works well and can be hand-wiped on with a rag or spread with a lambswool applicator. 24 hours minimum between coats, 3 to 5 coats recommended. Bona and Glitz take experience to get a good coat. Waterlox is far more forgiving.

You're doing right by asking for advice and surfing for information and tips. If you go into this project half-cocked, you're going to be hugely disappointed with your results.

You need a professional floor belt sander, a professional floor edger, a professional floor buffer and all the sanding media to professionally prepare your floor surface. Most professionals use a sequence of 3 (three) sanding grits with the belt machine and two with the edger and one with the buffer. Not all professionals use the same grit sequence, however. You will also need sharp hand scrapers and the correct application tools for your chosen finish.

"Chosen Finish"...Consumer-grade wood floor materials and finishes suggested to you are products many of us won't even touch. You are far better off investing a few more dollars in "professional use only" floor materials. Yes, any resourceful DIYer can get them, but you will get NO support from these manufacturers should you have problems during or after the project.

I'm not attempting to discourage you here, but you do need to understand what you're getting yourself into. There are NO shortcuts to a good wood floor refinish. However, if this is just a rental or an investment property, then 'good enough' should be 'good enough'.

Thanks for the advice. I have adjusted expectations on my timeline. I start sanding May 16th and I don't need to finish the job until May 26 so I have time.

This area of the house will not be used much but I would like to achieve a good/great result. I think I will try the orbital sander on day one and switch to a drum if its not doing the job.

I don't want to stain the floor. What top coat and Poly products would be recommended?