I'd go back to the dealer (iFloor?) and ask them... 'though I am a bit suspicious of "knocking them together with a pull bar."

I called iFloor and talked to my service rep. She said that some people lay out the entire row first, clicking the ends together, and then lift the whole row and insert it into the previous row all in one piece. She also recommended going along the whole row with the tapping block once the tongue is in the groove, to help it click in all the way and lay flat. She also suggested I think of the tapping block as more of a "pounding block." She admitted that it's not as easy as the term "click" makes it sound!

We tried it last night with row #2, and it did work much better that way. Of course, in the closet it was easy for two people to lift the whole row at once -- it will be harder in the larger rooms.

I still wish it worked the way they show it in the video -- the guy just lifts each plank, sticks it in the short end, sticks it in the long end, and it plops right down! When I do that, there are gaps galore, and they're extremely noticeable because the SA walnut laminate is a very dark color and the tongues and grooves underneath are a very light color.

Now for row #3! Any other tips from people who have laminate installation experience?

Though I didn't install iFloor, I installed laminate (cheapo stuff from the big home improvement store) the same way -- the way they described on the package and then with what worked. :-p In my case, it was a block of wood and a hammer. I found it easiest to go plank-by-plank; that "whole row at one time" business was just too hard for me to manage closely by myself. I also found that clicking and unclicking more than a couple of times damaged the shape of the channel and made it harder to get a nice, tight fit. Best advice I can offer is to take your time and not get too far without checking your work.

Best tip: use a new roll od duct tape to pound as needed. Rubber mallets are to hard and tend to chip the grove. Duct tape roll is softer so you can pound harder..... worked great for me. 700 sq ft in 1 day. Perfect

I cut a small piece of scrap that matches the grooves on the planks I'm installing. I then raise the row up approx. 30 degrees, and insert the block and tap with a rubber hammer. This way you don't damage the grooves and the next piece will lock in OK. It doesn't take much. Also, after the work is flat (almost), tap again and you will hear a noticable click.

It is a rotating lock. Flat and tap, will damage the T&G, leaving you with a separated floor in the future.

Use a wedge to hold the previous board at the special angle. Insert the end joint rotating it in, down as close to the long joint as you can. With the plank at that angle, take a 2x4 about a foot long, and using the long flat side, tap the plank into the joint. As you get it into the joint and it seams to not go any further, start to remove your wedge and keep tapping the long joint in.

taragirl,

How did the rest of your installation progress?? Do you like the SA Walnut? Would love to see some pics if you have any!! We are planning on the same floor and would love to hear from you!

Jamie

its literally all common sense, future planing and not being a complete idiot.

True enough although these skills all require an ability to adapt and adjust.

To be honest my knowledge and experience is enough for me to be able to figure it out if I were to see it.

I would first bleed the pressure, lock/tag out the system, then examine and take pictures for good measure. When in doubt, ASK.

So, I suppose that makes me a hypocrite and I apologize.

Although I guess some people are better suited for trade work, than other "part-time" enthusiasts.

Was also a 10 year old post that rjm chose to revive for that statement.

Rjm