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sonepi

Brown Paper Flooring

sonepi
14 years ago

Has anyone seen or tried this? I recently saw a news segment here in our city where they were showcasing a local artist who creates the paper floor using her own technique. She swears it's durable and can be used everywhere except a basement.

I've looked online and seen several sites that address DIY paper bag floors, but don't know how realistic it is to use in a kitchen and how durable it would be for most homes. The only people in the home are adults, no pets or young children on a daily basis, so it would not get a lot of wear except general traffic. There are occasional visits from young grandchildren and maybe an occasional splash of water on floor would be expected.

Any pros, cons and experience with this technique would be appreciated. Also any comments on putting this on concrete and vinyl floor would be helpful. Thanks.

Comments (15)

  • echoflooring
    14 years ago

    Wow, never heard of it. Looked it up and found a good link about it. Can't imagine it will hold luster very long, but maybe. Give it a try..Won't cost much. Don't spread the word too much as I wouldn't want it to put me out of business. Just kidding. Good luck.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Paper bag look

  • glennsfc
    14 years ago

    If you are looking for longevity of your final result, then coat with a professional-grade waterborne polyurethane.

  • sonepi
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Maybe I'll try it in a small area of our garage first. It looks great, but wonder how well it will wear. I'll just add it to my long list of DIY projects.

  • dinkledoodle
    14 years ago

    We did that on a wall a few years back! It was fun. We didn't poly it, but it was not meant to be walked on. Frankly, almost anything will hold up with enough poly. We painted over vinyl and it held up for years.

  • OKMoreh
    14 years ago

    I have an old (1981) BH&G Decorating Book that shows this. They suggested multiple coats of polyurethane, perhaps as many as five, and said that this would make it as durable as most floors. It looked sort of like brown flagstone.

  • sonepi
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    I think most of the instructions I've seen say 5-7 coats of polyurethane.

  • jillwhinnery_yahoo_com
    12 years ago

    i practised on a small pc of particle board and found that the urethane didnt act as a glue; the paper just dried up and never adhered to board. could it be due to using urethane rather than POLYurethane? Might gluing pieces down before polyurthane work better?

  • Caryl Adams
    3 years ago

    I did this years ago and the floors (over above-grade concrete) have held up amazingly well. Now, I am ready to put down wood and have discovered I need to have my floors leveled with a self-leveling compound. I'm having a very hard time finding out if I will have adhesion problems. The floors have been sanded with a floor sander and are pretty well scuffed up, but I'm nervous about putting down LevelQuik or SkimFlow. The original construction paper and Elmer's (10 years old) has 'become one' with the concrete. Has anyone else had experience with this? Thanks!

  • SJ McCarthy
    3 years ago

    I'm with millworkman. The shot blasting of the surface is probably your chance to get rid of the paper. This is one of the major down falls of a permanent DIY flooring project (such as paper or paint or garage epoxy from Home Depot). Once you decide to change out the floor for a HIGHER level product, you have to get rid of every scrap of the DIY thing.


    You will need more than just scuff up the floor. You need to grind off the paper and the glue...which is tough work. Or you shot blast it and get it over with. Either way you need fresh concrete with nothing sticking to it (including glue).

  • Caryl Adams
    3 years ago

    @millworkman good thoughts, indeed. The concrete sure did stick to the paper, though! LOL! Or vice versa. We probably will grind off the paper, but had one installer mention the possibility of using a primer he described as "paint on and it feels much like gritty or sandy paint". He said it will adhere to the paper and can be topped with a leveling compound without any problems. Not sure what product he's referring to, but it sounds lovely, if it exists. The thought of concrete dust throughout the house...........


  • Caryl Adams
    3 years ago

    @SJMcCarthy Yes, the paper DIY floor seemed like an awesome idea at the time, and it has held up amazingly well. Even after roughly 10 hours of an orbital sander using a 36-grit sanding disc, the paper is still solidly stuck to the floor. We have two other rooms in question, though, and maybe you can help with this? Two stained concrete floors both sealed with AFM's Safecoat Mexeseal (I think it's soy based? but been 10 years) some sheen low VOC. Grind these areas as well? Thanks so much!

  • millworkman
    3 years ago

    I do not know that I would trust any sort of "miracle primer", I would want to see the paper gone.

  • Caryl Adams
    3 years ago

    @millworkman Thank you!

  • SJ McCarthy
    3 years ago

    You've done the grinding and it is still there. Time to bring out the shot blaster. A shot blasting machine uses tiny balls of metal (aka "shot" as in buckshot) and BLASTS the balls into the concrete. This removes the top layer of concrete exposing the bare aggregate below.


    Once the top layer is gone (can be 1-2mm removed...not much) you can then go ahead and do your leveling. That's the level of damage you have to do to the paper to get rid of it.