I don't remember seeing any complaints from the Van Gogh line! We put in Van Gogh "Hickory Oak" and LOVE it (except for the scratches). We have about 1400 sf of it installed since about February. I was so worried (and am still cautiously optimistic) after reading these reviews, especially the fact that Karndean isn't standing behind their product. We did make sure to hurry and get blinds up so we wouldn't heat up the flooring under the windows (our new addition is a LOT of windows). I was really nervous about opening the windows up on the humid days but so far the only complaint I have is the scratching, and I don't think we've had any more scratches since the bulk of the construction has been done. We have a med sized dog who gets a little crazy and 3 grandsons, one of whom lives with us. So far so good...

We put down Salem in Oct 2016. I haven’t noticed any bubbling or planks pulling apart my handy hubby installed them. I know the boxes were in our house for 5 days before he installed so they could acclimat. He prepped the cement (slab) with something before he put it down. I know he took his time and made sure it was a tight fit with the planks. He also used a tacky substance for the high traffic areas in front of each hallway, in front of the French Doors and fireplac. The floor still looks great. It did get a scratch on one plank during Christmas last year, but I took a dark brown sharpie and scribbled over the scratch and quickly wiped it off so only the scratch got the ink. Worked great! It’s been almost 10 months and you can’t tell at all where the scratch is (Probably because of the style we got) Maybe the issues are with the one certain color and possibly bad instillation. I hope and pray we keep having good luck with our flooring in the future. We always have so many compliments on it. Hope everyone gets their problems resolved!

Be careful of going with an accredited supplier as all that a company has to do is purchase a certain amount of flooring the more they purchase the higher the rating right upto platinum. It can be very misleading of which I was a victim of. If you wish to block me for stating an honest opinion of your product then so be it but trying to silence someone who doesn't agree that the floor covering you supply isnt as wonderful or robust as you claim then you really must have something to be worried about

I was looking at purchasing karndean flooring in Dawn Oak and after reading this I’m rethinking it. Sounds like a nightmare to me!

The dawn oak is the higher quality Van Gogh line we used, so I honestly don't think you'll be disappointed with it. we nearly went for dawn oak but when we saw a large sample we didn't like the red in it - classic oak is almost identical without the red streaks and we love it, see photos in my review above. Our contractors installed it when we did our basement Reno and they did a great job.

I might add we are building a log home and one whole wall is windows. Should I be concerned about the sun fading it. Also the glass will have low-e.

I think the bigger concern with the light is that heat may warp the flooring. Like I said in a previous post, at the store Flooring & Home in East Toronto they have it set up in front of a window and they showed me how where the sun was hitting, the planks were warping. I think it literally goes back into place once the heat fades, but it probably isn't good in the long run and it will be annoying if it's a daily thing. By the way, my parents installed Torly's vinyl in their basement and that one also looks really good. I think theirs might be click instead of glue down though but I don't know the details.

@tammyward44 - The UV ratings on the wall of windows will dictate what you can use as flooring. Today's "entry level" windows have roughly 40% UV protection (some are lower...some are higher but you get the idea). This is NOT enough to prevent heat building up on the floor/in the home. The "mid-range" window (you need to upgrade/pay more money for each window) is roughly 75% UV blocking. That's the range you can feel comfortable with. This is where a SIGNIFICANT amount of heat and UV will be blocked. This level will prevent fading (of everything) and will prevent excessive build up of heat on the floor/in the home. A third level of UV block is the most expensive with almost 95% UV block. Most people do not want/cannot afford this level of UV block.

The mid-range windows will cause some issues with plant growth....but if that isn't an issue then no worries. If you are looking to create a passive solar home, then 75% UV block will be a problem. A big, big problem.

It all depends on WHAT you want the windows to do: "Just for the view" = go for highest UV block you can afford. If you need them to "do" something else (passive solar heat in winter) or you plan on putting dozens of plants in front of them because you are a green-house type of person, then the UV block will be a problem.

We had heard about the issues with the heat from the sun releasing the glue and curling the planks so we immediately ordered our blinds. We do have a large patio door that has no protection, so we used a larger rug there to absorb the heat, and so far so good.

Kathy Christie would you or anybody else who has stairs, please share images of how you finished your stairs with Karndean?

We were very disappointed with the French Oak(Van Gogh range).The floor was professionally laid to a very high standard and looked great at first.Unfortunately it always has smudgy oily marks on it no matter how much you clean it.Seems to be a particular fault with some of the lines.

On the plus side it is soft and warm underfoot ahd deadens the room echoes of laminate

Lisa H, we were advised that we would have issues with loose planks on stairs and it was best to avoid using Karndean on stairs. Coincidentally, my sister had loose planks on her steps that were done with bamboo flooring. I wanted no such thing. We chose to carpet the steps with a commercial grade carpet. Great decision. Much better decision than getting Karndean. We haven't even paid off our Karndean floors and they need to be replaced... the entire house is coming unglued. Horrible product.

We are looking at Karndean DaVinci vinyl. I have been reading the boards regarding scratching with Karndean being a huge problem. I obtained samples and purposely grinded dirty gritty shoe bottoms, chain bottoms without felt protectors repeatedly over and over, and I dont see ANY evidence of scratching or wear. I am wondering how this experience goes along with the many user complaints that I have read..Any ideas why my experiences are so different? Are the samples not representative of the real product?

We bought Karndean Van Gogh with the expectation that it would be durable enough to withstand the grit/gravel we bring in from the dirt roads/farm. We also have two dogs and an 11 yr. old Grandson that lives with us. Right after install we noticed quite a few scratches, caused by the contractors, but I was never sure what caused them. We've had them installed about a year, and really don't see any more scratches! In the beginning we were even afraid to bring the dogs in unless the had had their nails dremmeled down, but now we aren't so "anal" about that either, and have to say we are pleasantly pleased that we've not had any more scratching. I don't know if I've heard anyone have issues with the Van Gogh line, I do know that there were some other issues of planks curling and separating with some of the other lines. You definitely need to read their install requirements before you have them installed! Ours is the Hickory "Nutmeg" and you can only see the scratches if you are right on top of them.

I would like to know what, if any, products people have used to try to get rid of the scratch marks? A low sheen floor wax or floor sealer? Bona floor cleaner is useless. I am so disappointed that I spent thousands of dollars on this flooring.

Scratches in vinyl are permanent. The only solution is to remove/replace the plank. A floor cleaner will simply clean the floor. A low-gloss wax/sealant will void your warranty and cause MASSIVE issues in about 2 years. Temporary finishes (such as 'polishes) are viable for 4-5 months. Then they start to look WORSE than the problem you were trying to fix. But what to do? Add more of course. And they look OK for another 4 months...and then they look like cr@p by 6 months. You will continue on with the 6 month reapplication timeline until the polish is SOOOO thick, it starts peeling off 'white'...and looks worse than cr@p.

All floors will show scratches (even porcelain can show scratches). The gloss level of the vinyl (matte is particularly difficult to live with) and the colour will both create issues with how visible the scratches are. Photos would help.

We are/were just about to purchase the Korlok Antique Oak flooring for our dining room which has a South facing window and South facing patio doors. We were planning on putting 6mm No-More-Ply over the existing floor boards to give new level firm surface, then install the Korlok over that. Is that correct? or are we daft even thinking of putting a dark coloured floor down where there's South facing window/doors??

I was going to buy it this week and my husband (who is very handy) was going to install it - is it suitable for Good DIY-ers?

Thank you

Before you work with vinyl, go ahead and measure the temperatures the FLOORING goes through in those sunny south side areas. That normally requires taking temperature readings during the SUMMER when the sun shines the hottest.

Most vinyl floors (Korlok included) cannot handle DIRECT HEAT or DIRECT sunlight. Why not? Because vinyl melts. And most vinyl floors have an ABSOLUTE LIMIT of 85F. Yep. If you put an outdoor thermometer down in a 'pool of sunlight' (in the summer time) and leave it there for an hour, you will (most likely) find temps popping above 100F. And that's were you run into problems with vinyl.

It warps/fades/discolours in the presence of heat and UV LIGHTING (aka direct sunlight). My advice: check to find out your UV ratings on your windows. If they are new (as in the last 5 years) you *might have UV block as high as 98% (rare...you have to special order them this way AND they cost a fortune).

More common ratings for new windows (last 5 years or so) is UV 50% block (between 45% and 55% is common for Low-E windows = entry level windows).

If you KNOW you do NOT have a UV block on your windows then DO NOT use vinyl....not until you pay for NEW WINDOWS.

Sigh...I know. It is in the fine print on websites where no one knows to look. Flooring professionals know where to look, the sales person may not know...nor will they care (most...not all).

The only time a sales person is responsible for YOUR choice of materials is if you SPECIFICALLY STATE you have a southern exposure room with NO UV protection on your windows AND you SPECIFICALLY state you need HEAT RESISTANT flooring. If they STILL sell you vinyl then they are *possibly on the hook for it...but it is hard to prove unless you have it in an email (aka...a paper trail).

For me, a high-end laminate will outperform most vinyl products in a non-wet area like a living/dining area.

@SJ McCarthy

The 85*F limit is not because the vinyl *can melt*, but because the transitional pressure sensitive adhesive releases at approximatey that temperature. When removing these types of floors, a heat gun heats the planks to *much* higher than 100*F, and while they become more flexible, they will not melt. That’s just false.

While Korlok and other floating LVP floors do expand and contract with temperature changes, it’s largely irrelevant in a home with a running HVAC system. So irrelant that a lot of manufacturers don’t specify a maximum run distance, like you have with laminates. The expansion is much less than that of the laminate floor - especially for rigid core and SPC options - korlok included.

UV is associated more with the fading of colors in your planks. Not with the heat of the floor. Please don’t spread disinformation. You allude to the warranty coverage, but I don't think based on what you’ve said that you’ve read any of them. They’re usually only a couple pages long and not difficult to read. The only parts that are vague are those dealing with “wear-through“.

@ Bryan...I'm sorry to say but vinyl does melt (it is in a liquid form in the factory before it becomes a solid product on a plank) but more accurately it warps with intense sunlight.

As kids we use to take our parents' vinyl records out into the sun and leave them there...just to see what shape they would take when they warped. You add that to the limits of adhesives in the build process of vinyl and you have two things happening.

1. The adhesive bond is broken;

2. The vinyl itself warps - this becomes worse once the bond is broken to the plank below.

The UV (ultraviolet) is the definition for light that is beyond human vision in the shorter ray lengths (shorter waves than violet). IR rays are infrared light which is outside the range of human vision with wavelengths LONGER than red. The IR is the stuff that creates heat...UV is what damages pigments in items.

Both of these wave lengths are produced with sunlight. UV blocking windows block BOTH types of rays. Regardless of which wave lengths do the damage, both are blocked by UV treatment on windows.

Thank you for reminding me to much more scientific when dealing with a general question by a homeowner. Since science isn't everyone's cup of tea, I try to take a more level, real world approach without boring anyone to tears. Next time I'll just write "sunlight" so that I'm not spreading disinformation

Thanks for the “science lesson”. I implore you to take some vinyl planks outside and set them on hot asphalt in the sun to see what happens. Please post pictures here of melted vinyl.

We do exactly that when customers bring glue-down vinyl plank samples back to the store warped from conforming to the back seat of their car. They heat up enough to become pliable, and conform to the flat asphalt. We then bring them inside and place them on the table to cool off, and store them back in the table for another customer to take home. I’m not kidding when I say that the heat gun will make the planks so hot that you can’t hold them. I’ve literally never once seen one “melt”.

To be clear, I am not disputing the fact that vinyl starts as a liquid, or that if you heat it enough that it will return to a liquid state. I am disputing your claim that at 85* or low 100s Fahrenheit will melt a plank. I am also now disputing your claim that heat will cause them to warp on the floor. If there is a flat, smooth subfloor underneath, heat like you get from the sun or from a heat gun will only cause the plank to flatten (conform to the shape of the subfloor) and cause the adhesive to release from the backing of the plank. Show me any real, hard evidence that what you’re saying is true. And please leave out the pedantic scientific definitions, I graduated university a long time ago.

You will note I said vinyl warped in the sun. Yes I used the word 'melt' but that is again a more 'homeowner' based word. I then correctly identified the warping in relation to heat. But if pedantic is what is needed then please remember Grade 10, 11 and 12 Science classes (chemistry) that points out that when particles are being heated the particles that make up the item heat at different rates. I'll use water - as an example. When water is heated, but before it reaches a boil (100 C at sea level) some of the particles are HOTTER than 100 C and they are visible as steam. The rest of the pot remains liquid which is to say the H20 particles are at a lower temperature. In theory there can be particles that are so cold they could be close to freezing (0 C)...but that doesn't normally happen...it normally exists only in theory.

Ask any client who has had their vinyl planks warp when sitting in front of a sliding glass door whether or not their planks changed size or shape. And ask any flooring inspector who has had to identify the reason for the warping whether or not vinyl changes size or shape when sitting in a hot sunny window.

As for post secondary I graduated from BCIT in 1995 as an Electroneurophysiology Technologist...flooring isn't my first gig. But it is MUCH more fun than helping diagnose a brain tumor in a 12month old.

Just trying to explain my use of 'melted'. And yes I have seen many vinyl planked floors become so warp to be considered nonfunctional. Houzz website is FULL of photos demonstrating the fact. Happy hunting.

Thanks to everyone who has posted on this thread, I bought a house with laminate tile from this company. And no matter what and how I have tried to clean the floors I cannot get dirt out of the textured "tiles" and I cannot get them to be grey again.

I am on my hands and knees cleaning with no luck. I had assumed that I would be able to get the dinge out of the floors as I was able clean up the rest of the kitchen (previous owners didn't know the concept of cleaning) but going into year four at this house I guess I might need to just replace the floor.

Close up shows the dirt I cannot get out.
Second photo shows original color that has changed to beige/grey.

If there are any suggestions they are appreciated

These look to be vinyl tiles with an acrylic 'grout' line. I'll assume they are vinyl until I'm corrected by the OP.

A textured tile like this will grab dirt. The reason you are having a hard time getting rid of it: water evaporates but dirt does not. That means every time you clean, you are leaving the dirty water behind.

It is possible you can use a product that SUCKS the water off the floor. A shopvac will work. The wet vacuums (spray on the front end, suction on the back) will help. But the texture will still be there and you will fight this every step of the way.

As for the change of colour, vinyl has been known to discolour when exposed to UV rays (sunlight OR overhead lighting). For this reason alone I think these are vinyl and not laminate.

You've been unhappy with these floors for 4 years. It is probably time to look at a kitchen flooring refresh.

We have had our Kardean planks now for 18 years. I have continually had difficulty with the scuff marks. The retailer I bought it from insisted that there is no need to strip and wax the floor. In 18 years, I only have done it twice. That seemed to help but my family literally has to move out of the house for 2 days of stripping and waxing and all of the furniture needs to be moved. Now, that being said, we are in the process of replacing all of our floors (they are almost 19 years old). I want the wood look but don't want ceramic tile. Any suggestions??

Hi, I am wondering if you have any progress.

I had Karndean installed and am incredibly disappointed, disgusted and appalled at the floor company, installers and Karndean.

Absolutely the worst customer service I have ever had. I whole heartedly agree devaluing my house.

Installed with non paintable sealant, cut marks all over planks, planks not cut correctly to size, gaps at edges of room fitted with messy slithers of off cuts.

When I ask for it to be assessed I am met with insults. For anyone considering Karndean vinyl planks choose anything else. Do your research well into flooring companies, check reviews.

Sorry HU-....5872

There are NO vinyl products on the market that are under warranty against fading. If you worried about sun exposure you would have done better to go with porcelain tile or laminate.

Vinyl is vinyl is vinyl. It is heat and UV sensitive. Fading is the most common issue with 80% of flooring products. Only laminate (of the man-made plank stuff) can get away with heavy sun exposure and not change.

The WINDOWS in the space (ahem...homeowner owns the windows in their home) will dictate the level of protection offered the vinyl. If the UV rating of the windows is low (or non-existent) than vinyl (or any product that changes colour in direct sunlight) will suffer damage.

Vinyl has it's limits. Your windows in your home have shown you those limits. Karndean is not responsible for your windows.

Thank you HU 169895872.

We were told that this is a good product, but reading this information has made us realize this is not an option. There is no way we want to spend 10K on floors that will be damaged quickly. As you said, people want quality.

Perhaps LVP is better for basements where there is little sunlight and not much foot traffic.

Chris_kuca, we are 5 years into our floors and they still look horrible. But we needed to pay off the $10k loan and start saving to get new floors. We just live with the planks coming unglued all over the house and the gaps as the planks continue to move. Not an ideal situation as we potty train a new puppy.

I'm not sure what our next floor will be... but it sure as hell won't be Karndean!

Rochelle, in the apartment where we have lived for 15 years, so not the one my parents reside at that has the brand new broken LVP, the living room has hardwood. On these, the dog had the occasional accident and the cat as well..he has stomach issues. They also spilled their water and food. We immediately wipe them and the floors are just fine.

I am seriously considering hardwood to replace the LVP.

Thank you Chris_kuca. We certainly will not purchase these floors. The 10K we were quoted recently seemed like a lot, but then we were told the product was good, so we were considering using this brand.

It seems that there are many, many installation challenges with such floors that could cause damage...and one cannot have large windows either. In the end, consumers are left with no money and damaged floors. Getting real help--not just a report--from manufacturers of these types of floors, flooring companies and contractors is impossible. That has been our experience with Shaw floors, so we won't be repeating it with this other brand.

We have multiple dogs so we chose not to go with hardwood. But they are durable and stand the test of time.

Seems to me that most people here relied on a salesperson to guide them to a decision on their flooring.. that's where all of you made your mistake. It's YOUR floor and YOU have to live with it for x amount of years. I'm no professional floor guy but I do work at a flooring store. I do my own research on the floors even though I am trained to be able to sell all the floors we have. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. Ask questions, be annoying. If your sellers back off because you're being too nosy then those guys don't know or don't want to give you the information you need. You can blame everyone around you but you're the ones that bought the floor.

I agree with Evan C. but up to a point. Some information posted online, articles about certain floors written by flooring experts, can be misleading. Consumers also research by consulting flooring retailers because these are the people trained in the field. We can only do so much research. If we read and are told a certain floor is durable and suitable for.our home, there is no reason not to trust the information. However, it appears that with flooring, that is not enough. The same applies to the installation. One person said she read the installation guidelines, consulted with the company, and supervised the "professionals" who were installing her floors and alerted them when they were making mistakes. While that is fantastic, and obviously helped her, one wonders why this is necessary for flooring. After all, for example, when we go to the dentist, we don't research how to do a root canal and.then tell the dentist the steps she must follow. We also don't need to know to operate a cash register at a store to purchase a product or how to fly a plane when we travel. So my question is why can't we rely on the expertise of flooring retailers, manufacturers or installers in the same way we do with other professionals?

Bottom line is that they make money on sales and not consultations. They rely on warranties that protect them and that don't tip the scales towards the consumers.

It's a miracle we trust anyone with anything today. I guess it comes down to a hit or miss approach (in which you pick something and then are stuck with the result). But even with the hit or miss approach you still have to do your research.

Even with this approach, you must stay away from bagging companies and stores alike. You made a decision and banked on it without really knowing much about the product. I personally do not make a decision on something as important as flooring let alone a restaurant or a store without consulting an individual who has had some sort of experience with it (and you better believe that I trust this person). We all know that word of mouth is the best advertising or slander. I do believe it best. If you don't know anyone close to you that has something to say about said product, don't read into it until you do.

We used the same brand floors and licensed contractor as one of our friends. The results are night and day. Why?

So, in the end, it doesn't matter what one does.

Consumers are the ones losing all the money. To replace our floors, we were told it will cost 10K in addition to the 1,500 furniture storage. Then one has to find a place to stay for a couple of weeks.

There are very few flooring options that are worthy of calling 'generationally lasting'. Those products include solid hardwood, tile and marble. They are extremely expensive and can last for decades on top of decades. But at the end of the day you can ruin just as fast if not faster than all the cheaper products you find like vinyl and laminate.

With vinyl they're just like any other product, there are faulty ones within the same style and color as the good ones. They are a lesser product, they're cheaper to make... does that ring a bell when you're looking at flooring that says, WATERPROOF and SCRATCH RESISTANT. Probably not. At the end of the day, what most companies and sales people don't care to talk about, in an effort to not have the costumers confused and second guessing a product, is the fact that flooring, all flooring, if exposed to certain temperatures or moisture levels will be faulty. Look again, ALL flooring. It may not be the product, but the adhesive being exposed to extreme heat in some areas, the subfloor being in constant moisture, etc. My only advice down the line is to not look at any color or style until you have narrowed down the exact flooring for your situation. Ask questions! Stupid questions. Questions how it will handle certain areas in your home, how it will handle your older home movements, how it will do in foot traffic between humans and dogs, how it will handle the winter and how it will handle the summer and everything else you can think of about possible damage.

My number one problem with customers is they come in and see a color/style they like before I can find out what flooring is best for their home. Then when we get to the specific type of flooring they actually need in the home they ask if I have it in that same color/style they liked from the go. I tell them no, they leave and come back and get the style they like rather than the style then need. My point being, even if it were not for me, they should have done their research on what they looked at about the flooring and color and style should have come last. That's one of the underlying issues of unsatisfied costumers, there are many more. Just goes to show that small details can go a long way with choosing flooring.

As far as the cost of the floor installation, that's not going away. It's a skill business that requires plenty of back breaking work. I won't deny those guys are worth the money if installed correctly.

We have Kardean Korlok in Antique French Oak. We love it, it doesn't scratch. As with EVERYTHING you use as flooring prep work is the key to a solid stable and long lasting floor. We've had ours in for 3 years.

Three plus years later....still feel our flooring was either missing a coating or had a defective coating. From day one it had a haze to it looking from a certain direction. When I clean it will look great (from the good direction) until anyone walks on it. Then it has foot prints and looks bad from all directions. From day one have used the products recommended by them. Would never get Karndean again.

@Evan C In your professional experience why are so many people unhappy with footprints and scuff marks on LVP? That is what has me scared about purchasing it. Are main living area is South facing and I hate the thought of having t constantly look at footprints . That area is carpeted and tiled now. Is it a difference in the type of top coat used or more likely the sheen? It seems the really matte styles receive more complaints? I was looking at Karndean specifically for that reason. My sample has a little sheen tomit and I thought that might help in this area of concern.

@Cynthia Cunningham, glad you asked! Everyone has oily feet whether they like it or not. And almost every finish on LVPs will leave some kind of footprint. Again, since going with cheaper alternatives to wood and tile you have to settle for chemical finishes which when in contact with your feet leave footprints. For most, and I mean most, it does not bother them. I'm not saying it's a bad thing, but pretty much anyone with 'footprint phobia' are anal. It comes out with a thorough cleaning and it's easily fixed with wearing socks. If your on the hot side, you will still leave footprints but it's not like they stick around. As far as scuffs go, you will scuff just about any flooring depending on which type of shoe you wear. There's an ancient technique for fixing this one error on your floor: take your damn shoes off! It seems to me that when people hear easy maintenance they forget to actually take precautions to keep your floor looking good and clean. It's simple stuff. It's a great product, Karndean, Mohawk, Pergo or Mannington, pretty much any name brand, just don't forget that you have to put in effort to keep them looking good. Just make sure that it has the proper wear layer for your household (8,12,20 will suffice in almost any house, 20 if you have fur babies) and that you have a reputable installer.

@Evan C Thanks Evan. We live in Florida, so barefoot in the house is the norm. No way we will be wearing socks to keep the floor clean! We have Tile and Carpet now, so yes, it will be a big transition it sounds like to vinyl. Also, being barefoot all the time, I am a little concerned about the texture of the vinyl as well. Some people swear that the stuff tears their socks. That sounds a bit rough for my feet! My whole house is 1300 sf so I may need to look at wood look tile again, and maybe even go against the grain and get new carpet in the main living area.

@Cynthia Cunningham We have two LVPs in our house that we are trying to replace due to unfortunate reasons (defect in the first LVP and then misleading sales in the second, both companies ended up refunding us but it was a huge pain on both counts.) The finish matters. The one we have with a matte finish (Coretec Berlin PIne) tears up our socks and pants at a ridiculous rate (we are on the floors a lot with our toddler). We also have experienced the haze/footprint issue with that one that people complain about. The other LVP (Cali Bamboo North Shore Oak) does not have a matte finish, you can see and feel the difference comparatively, and it cleans great and has not torn apart our clothes. We hate going upstairs because that is where the clothes-shredding Coretec floor is and we have to try not to touch it with our clothes. Just by getting down on our knees and getting back up once ruins our pants because it leaves whitish patches (that turn to holes quickly with repeated exposure to the floor). I've had to apologize to friends whose kids ruined their pants in one afternoon of playing on our floors. Both companies say they use the same top coat (UV acrylic) and the one that has the most embossed texture (Cali) is the one that isn't shredding our clothes, so it is not a difference in wear layer composition or in embossing/not embossing. it really does seem to be a difference between matte and non-matte finishes. Unfortunately, we haven't been able to find any new LVP samples so far that don't have the matte finish that seems to have overtaken the industry in the last year. If it weren't for the fact that we were promised 10 patterns from Cali Bamboo and there were only 4 when we installed (and the repeats look glaringly, stupidly obvious) then we would go with Cali Bamboo just because it isn't shredding our clothes. Now, I could see how it wouldn't matter if you don't wear socks and don't get on the floors much. Even the clothes shredding floor is comfortable to walk on barefoot. It took us several months to figure out that was what was tearing up our clothes (but once we did figure it out, it was super obvious it was happening just on the Coretec matte floor). My point really is to say, yes, there is definitely some (if not most) LVP that certainly shreds clothes but there apparently is at least one out there that doesn't (Cali Bamboo). Still searching for another non-matte finish LVP and will let you know if we find one!

You dont actually srste which karndeen product you are having issues with.

Had Karndean fo 5 years now and no problems. wears well. hides the dirt. easy t clean. i love it.

I’m hating my LVP for all the reasons states above. Karndean says they have never ever heard of anyone having this problem and my floor looks horrible. What a waste of $20k. It was 14 months before I could even get a response back and of course it’s my housekeeping that they gave for the resin for it looking so badly. I feel like I got 2nd grade materials and Karndean and all the middlemen will do nothing to help. Nothing.

My scuffed looking floor

Purchased flooring with their recommended adhesive called DrySet. Followed ALL the instructions professionally, even engaged tech support, who wasn’t much of a help. The glue never worked. It was a nightmare. The Midwest sales person Michele is slow and dry at responding and not a customer advocate. I am trying to get a refund for the adhesive and it’s an ordeal. I will start a case with small claim for the whole flooring now because this is unacceptable. You can tell it’s not an American company, they are not customer-centric.