They cup and warp, if they are installed out of industry standards for site conditions and acclimation requirements.
Which most builders refuse to abide by, because of delays to bring the jobsite to proper conditions for wood flooring.

I have 3-7" wide solid R&Q red oak that I properly installed over a year ago and it definitely has not warped or 'waved'. As floorguy said, it's all about proper acclimation, proper installation, and getting those big spills up when they happen.

Engineered hardwood flooring in wide plank might let you get away with a little sloppiness, but it can cost quite a bit more than solid wood for the better stuff.

Here is one unfinished engineered flooring example:

Here is a link that might be useful: Launstein wide plank

What are the necessary requirements? Maybe I can ask our GC some more questions. I am a little frustrated as I feel like I am only being offered one option: Oak in 3.5". Is that a good option?
Thanks!

its also a design option. Wider planks give more of a casual look. Thinner a little more formal. I would use what I like. If its engineered its going to be way more stable than a solid so that matters in what you are thinking about using.

The subfloor is wood. I'll ask about the moisture reading.

Does anyone have any comments on Oak floor - is it a good choice?

Oak (either red or white), in my biased opinion, is probably one of the best wood floor choices. It has lots of grain (to hide dents and dings), is available in a wide variety of cuts and grades, has medium natural color tones, and most of it is cut from sustainable forests in N. American or Western Europe.

Oak is still popular, even with the huge increase in tropical flooring imports that has taken place in the last 6 years. White oak is currently selling better than red oak. Red oak strip flooring prices are at very low historical levels, which makes it a good value.

First all the windows, doors and seals need to be in place.

Then all the wet trades need to be complete. Then the HVAC unit needs to be operational and running for two weeks prior to the start of acclimation.

In 2 weeks a moisture content reading of the subfloor is taken, along with reading the ambient conditions inside the installation area. The subfloor needs to read what the temp & humidity dictate. It may need to lose moisture it may need to gain a little. Only a meter and a hygrometer will tell you that.

Once the subfloor and the wide plank flooring have reached moisture content equilibrium, where it is no longer gaining or losing moisture content, is it ready to go. Even a 2% difference in the moisture content of the subfloor and the flooring is sckeptical for wide plank. 4% is the limit for strip flooring not plank flooring. 2% is a lot of difference when talking about wide plank, where the plank can be 3 to 4 times wider then strip flooring. Little gaps in strip flooring, will be big gaps in plank flooring.

floorguy knows his stuff! The first thing you can do is purchase a good quality hygrometer, you can order online. Then ask the floor installer if he uses a moisture meter, believe it or not some don't.
Donna

Hmm. I know for a fact that this is not the plan for installing these floors. The windows and doors have been in place for several weeks, but he wants to install the floor next week before the central AC is up and running.

Another question: What constitutes Wide Plank floors?? Is it 8" and over or does 5 or 6" also count as wide plank??

I think we may go for 5 or 6" so I don't want to be worrying about this if I don't need to.

Thanks!

RED FLAGS!!!! WAVING!!!!!

Danger, Danger, Danger!!! Houston we have a problem.

Typical builder. clueless!!!! Go to www.NOFMA.org and download the jobsite requirements befor acclimation and installation.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jobsite specifications and requirements

5" planks are considered wide planks. I really educated myself after having a bad first experience. I learned everything from floorguy and the hardwoodinstaller website. I made sure that a moisture meter was used and the floor was checked for flatness. My wood did not have to acclimate because it is engineered. My condo is 35 years old so their was no waiting period before the install. Everything was done as per industry standards. Even so I have some small hollow spots.
The manufacturer of your floor will have an insert with every box of wood. It tells you exactly what steps to follow regarding moisture and preperation. This should be followed exactly. Maybe you should just get a credit for the floor and have someone who knows what they are doing install it. You really have to be careful though, even the so called pros don't know what they are doing. In Chicago anyone can call themselves a floor installer. There is no industry standard. I would have the builder put in writing that he will follow the manufacturers guidlines to the letter when installing your floor. My floor is by Mirage and my installation instructions are very specific. If the guidelines are not followed and the floor fails you will have a much bigger problem.
Donna

"You really have to be careful though, even the so called pros don't know what they are doing."

Donna is SO RIGHT, as I've also learned by hard experience. And some builders fall into this category as well.

Do what floorguy says, and go to the website as well, and get someone who really knows what they're doing.

Otherwise, just go the safe route and stick with what the builder is offering and it will probably be OK.

I don't know that website, but am sure if floorguy thinks it's good, it is. When I had a sticky situation with my hardwood flooring, I finally did all my own research -- the so-called experts being worse than useless, trying to get me to accept a bandaid on the problem instead of a solution -- and I finally found a really good source of flooring experts. Link below. You can find a list of certified installers, and they are throughout the country.

PS in my opinion, wide planks are really beautiful, as are random width planks. I have oak normal planks. If I get to choose again, I will select something like cherry, in random width planks. BUT, honestly, it is going to be beautiful whatever width it is, there is just nothing like a hardwood floor of any type. It's going to be OK, just do your homework the best you can, and it will be fine.

Here is a link that might be useful: Certified Floorcovering Installers

My first installers was a member of the hardwood installers association. He came highly recommended by my kitchen designer. He used to lay the floors himself but now he uses subs. They did not know anything about installing floors. It is so sad. Huge sections of the floor had to be torn out and redone. Make sure to check references.
Donna