I don't think they want the rod pulled out to keep the chimney hot, I think they want it out because when the fan is on, there is less stagnant air entering the chamber. So when the rod is out, there's a supply of air to the fire. Rod closed, the fire is literally choked off. Turn off the fan and there is enough air to keep the fire going.

I have the same model and only just recently fired it up so Im still learning -

I saw those instructions, and questioned how will it heat the area it needs too with the fan off at any point in time? Its the blower thats critical for the square footage coverage. On cold nights and before going to sleep, I dial down the damper to almost closed, the fire still burns a real slow burn and keep the fan on low. It keeps the house real warm overnight - that was the goal.

Its my thinking by having the fan on with the damper as low or as close to closed. it keeps the stove from getting too hot overnight with no air circulating -was my reasoning behind this - is this correct?

If it seems Im doing it wrong, then I would need to know this as well. I know at least once a week I will have the fire hot (damper open) and burning a few hours this way to clean burn the creasote off, which it does nicely this way.

Anyway the stove exceeds all my expectations - heats 2,000 sq feet of 1st floor ranch style, with no problem at all in a few hours. Impressive heat - Im happy

recently getting good use out of the I3100L - in order to keep the cresote at a minimum, I have been told that burning the unit in the 500- 600 degree range for 3-4 hours once a week should take care of any build up.
I have to believe this since observing how clean it makes the enternal part with those temps.

When your stove isnt hot enough and the draft is almost closed you will get buildup on the window. Just leaving the damper open, and let the temps rise to 500-600 it will burn off in short order. Do this at least once or twice a week with heavy burning, and I bet you will be in real good shape (im following my own advice too)

Overall the stove is fantastic - produces incredible amounts of heat, and great burns that meet or exceed the specifications (duration)

500 to 600 is the normal operating temperature of our Regency.

For those of you giving the operating temp of your inserts, how do you measure the temp on an insert?

a magnetic temperature guage on the top right side -

Works well and can be found on-line or any heath store or stove place - under $20

as a follow up to the OP - I have burned basically 24/7 since my first post - everynight I close the draft and it really helps with the long overnight burns - still going strong in the morning, where I open it up for a few hours
I have taken a peak from the top down, and I dont see build up at all that would cause any concern. It depends on the quality of wood too - this makes a big difference

So where do you purchase this temp gauge? I have just gotten this stove having trouble with smoke coming into the house when I open the door to put wood in. Have been told I am not getting the fire hot enough. Does not seem to be drafting well. Any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated!!!!

My Regency I-3100 was installed in 2008. I burn 5 cords a year in it. The steel baffle that runs across the front of the firebox and serves as part of the airwash system and secondary air burn has corroded away. Dealer told me the life expectancy of these is about 8 years if you burn 24/7. That's a big investment for a small return as far as I'm concerned.

Didn't your stove come with a lifetime warranty? Mine did.

I have an I3100 stove insert and 6" stainless liner that was professionally installed by a Regency dealer. I have had it for years, but have had issue with the unit from the beginning.

The insert has never lived up to the specs listed below. My home is 1300 sq ft and the unit will barely heat the 10x20 ft room it is in. Even with the fire filling the box, blower output was warm. With the door open it was extremely hot, but not with the door closed.

I could never get the fire to last over night, even with a full box of hardwood The box was full of ash and the blower thermostat was shutting off after about 6 hours, so no heat output after that. I also checked to make sure the sensor was contacting the metal of the stove, but I cannot move it's location due to wiring.

I have had 2 chimney liner fires, each time somehow filling my home with a strange smoke. The Fire Dept nor I ever determined where the smoke came from. Maybe the liner was oiled or the insulation caused it. Without a well sealing air intake and no upper damper, I could never stop the burn to put the chimney fires out without spraying the fire with water. I think the chimney fires were caused by keeping the burn very low to try and get 10 hours of burn time (well seasoned wood).

The unit also puts a lot of smoke into the house. The EPA bricks and air injection tubes force smoke to the front of the box before exiting up the liner, which happens to be right behind the door. So open the door and smoke rolls in. They could have routed the exhaust toward the back of the box, like most other wood stoves.

As for the glass staying clear due to the EPA air injection tubes blowing fire toward the door, good luck. Again with the smoke. I tried everything.

I cannot see any way of getting 10 hrs or 3000 sq ft. The unit has been nothing but a fire hazard and needs attention. I have not used it for the last some years as I cannot take the risk. I tried using the BBB of Canada to get Fireplace Products International (Regency) to address my issues, but their reply was; wrong fuel, too cold a home, operator error, etc. As long as the unit had no damage, it was not their issue.

Any ideas?

Maximum BTU 75,000
Burn Time up to 10 hrs
Room Size 3000 sq. ft.

Anyone that turns a fan on in the bathroom or kitchen could have the smoke coming. You need to stop the draft from coming out of the stove. Also opening an

the outside door before the fire is going good could also mess it up.