I think this is the one you want (see link). I'm considering it as well, since I have a similar problem with no return line. It goes under the sink in the farthest bathroom. You'll need an outlet for it to plug into. There are similar devices made by Watts and others, but this Laing unit seems to get the best reviews. My only concern is the degree to which you'll be paying a lot more energy costs by forcing the water heater to work more. Of course, that has to be weighed against the lost water (which you once paid to heat) costs and the value of your time/convenience in waiting for hot water. Definitely get a version that includes a mechanical timer so you're not heating water all night. Here is a link that might be useful: autocirc

The Viking is a dual fuel and the hinges are failing. They don't open all the way, and won't hold the door closed - I have fabricated a cabinet door catch to keep it closed, without that, when you close the oven door, it sags open a few inches. I checked online and with a repair man, but Viking no longer offers replacement hinges, and there are no adjustments to the hinges. I don't know any way to fix the door not opening fully. As to why I want the auto lite, it is just a silly convenience, I am so used to just turning it to what ever position I want, instead of turning it to a lite position, waiting to have it light, then turning it back to another position. I fully understand it is a somewhat silly requirement, probably not the only silly requirement I have. Glad to hear it works that way on other ranges, though not sure why they would have the LITE position, especially since some makers, like Wolf, don't have a lite position, or tell you to turn the knob to that position, where others, such as CC, tell you to turn to the LITE position until the flame starts.

Hello all, The one and only auto-pay I have set up is thru my old credit union account. I have auto-deposit there for my checks. The CC with the auto-pay is also issued with/through them. (So, I'm not concerned about THAT one, since they already are "connected" - so to speak.) Also, that CC is the one I use for general purposes with a very low balance. I've not had a problem with that, nor any concerns, BECAUSE it is always a low balance - or paid off. It started out (while I was working) - I could opt a specific amount deducted fm paycheck every WEEK (remember the good old days when you got paid weekly?!!! lol), and automatic pymts to pay for my "one and only new car I ever bot". I LOVED it! (The car was also funded thru my credit union). I'd like auto-pay for TWO other cc's, but I don't want the cc's to have direct access to my cr. union acct. I also have a regular bank account which I've had for a very long time, (checking only - I dumped my savings due to their ridiculous monthly fees), and I use this to pay bills. I HATE this bank, but I've had my acc't for about 30 years - so don't want to close the account. What I've been doing for several years is writing a ck fm Cr. Union to deposit into my "regular bank scct" - but only enough to cover bills that I am paying (plus a small "buffer"), so that they make minimal $ on MY $. My balance is always VERY LOW in this account. (I REALLY hate this bank!) I considered setting up CR Union to make auto-deposits to my regular bank. (BUT, then again, I hate to "connect" the two.) And then set up auto-pay on cc's thru THAT account. PLUS, IF I did that, it would be under what I pay out each month,-(utilities, etc.), So...I would STILL have to write another check and go to ATM to make additional deposit every month. Sounds messy, huh? lol! Well, it is! I don't want to close out my regular bank acc't. Too old - and good for FICO??? I WON'T close out my Credit Union - also, too old. (plus I get lot's of benefits.) I've always been against the "online" pay method - Due to various reasons which I will spare you deatils! haha (In general - don't want to RELY on computer do to "crashes". afraid of change, many phishings, and just don't really understand how it works, etc...PLUS, I do NOT want emails to remind/inform me of this or that - I prefer paper coming thru regular mail.) BUT...hubby and son DO pay some bills online. I talked to hubby last night about how it works. I've decided to try it. (Slowly at first - & with a watchful eye) Check out Cr union online options first. See what I can/cannot do online. Sign up for that bank I hate - see what's available - what I can/cannot do - and if there are any FEES. Do an EFT fm Cr union to that bank. See how that works out. If all OK, check into CC's, see what. Try to make pymts online. (I'll start with one specific one first - see how it goes.) As long as I still get my paper statements in the regular mail each month with it all itemized... Hubby DID warn me that when I do the EFT - could take 3-5 days for it to go thru...(but then, it takes that time for regular mail also - for paying bills, that is.) I'll just have to do any bank TRFs a few days ahead. So, I have a lot to check into in next several days. Wish me luck! LOL!

Lauren, You didn't say where you are (and I can't get the member page thingy to work, so that's no clue, either). Anyway, to answer your question about what happens to a house when unoccupied. Presumably it is either heated (if necessary in your climate) or the pipes have been drained to prevent freeze-ups. As to what happens with an drained-but-unheated house, well, nothing bad as long as the windows and roof are intact. We have sometimes left our house in northern NY (with pipes drained, and everything prepped for freezing) for a couple of years at a time, with no untoward damage. Aside from an accident like a bird breaking a window and rain getting in, the biggest risk to an unoccupied house is damage from people (kids, vandals, thieves, etc.) Keeping the lawn mowed is a good neighborhood investment not only for the vacant house, but for all the neighbors. It isn't good to have people with bad motives too focused on your neighborhood, plus it doesn't do anything for property values to have a vacant and possibily becoming derelict structure nearby when you go to sell a house. If you are concerned you could do a couple of things: use public records to track down who actually owns the house (ownership, deeds, mortgages, foreclosures, unpaid prop. taxes etc.) and write them a letter expressing neighborhood concern over the situation. You may also be able (depending on your zoning laws) get your town or city building department to contact them. In some areas there are regulations that require a certain level of upkeep. If it has been fully repossessed (as opposed to still being in foreclosure proceedings), it is probably just stuck in limbo and not on someone's to do list. A little outside attention might move it onward in its journey back to being a family home. Foresclosed properties are sometimes sold at very attractive prices by banks in order to just get some money back out. Some people make a nice living buying these properties and doing some fix-ups and remarketing them pretty quickly. If you know some who does this, you might give them the info and they could take it from there. Or you might want to do it yourself. Perhaps you could research the market, get access to the property to inspect it or even just make an offer subject to an inspection and buy it for resale. In real estate jargon this is known as flipping. Meanwhile, perhaps a little neighborhood work-project could spruce up the yard enough so it doesn't bug you all and attract trouble. Good luck! Molly~