Yuck! I have a couple of pieces of glass that always end up a film after sitting for a while after they've been cleaned. That does not inspire confidence. I grabbed a case of ball half-pints at the publix the other day. It had a big sticker on the top that says: "American Jars for American Jobs - Made in the USA for 125 years." I hadn't seen the BH&G jars but now it makes sense. I'll have to make sure I get some more Ball jars when the commissary gets them in. I was just thinking I should check Big Lots. I like the Golden Harvest jars.

Well, I am sorry to tell you that you have either totally missed or avoided my real point all along, greystroke. You give a lot of input here, but nothing hits the nail even remotely on the head. How can that be? It is NOT at all about determining any elemental content in components or solutions! I am calculating my formulas in a very conventional and reliable way. I am using my own nutrient calculator. I can also cross-check the results with other nutrient calculators in case (which I frequently did until it was completed). So there is no doubt about the data I use and apply. Anyway, with a nutrient calculator there is no need to have a PhD in theoretical physics or chemistry anymore, to get it right. There is no need to do any supplementary measurements or tests either. What I was talking about here ALL ALONG, was the difference between actual elemental content in a nutrient solution (which is the result of standard formulas and values in use) and the final EC-reading of the same solution. Because there apparently (well actually) is a significant difference (10-15%). Please let's focus to finally get to a point here (figure of speech): have you ever calculated, weighted components and used your own formulas to actually make COMPLETE nutrients? Have you used a nutrient calculator, or have you cross-checked your results with one? If yes, have you ever compared the total elemental ppm that your solution is supposed to have (mathematically and by commonly used values for components), - with the actual and final EC-reading of that same solution? If yes, have you noticed any differences? If yes, how do you explain it? PS: is there anyone else who has insight here and is able to give some input about this end of the equation? Sorry to insist - No offense here: I mean THIS very end of the equation - Thanks!

"First--do those prepaids need to be charged like a regular cell? DO NOT use a car charger, except in a true emergency. One of Dd's coworker's husband has a cell phone store, he warned us that using a car charger is a good way to burn up your battery (car chargers overcharge the phone, they don't have a 'shut off' when the battery is charged). So you will need to remember to take the phone inside to charge it with a wall charger. Prepaid cell phones are cell phones like any other. In fact many of them are older models that were used in contract phones and when the new models come out for contract phones, the leftover supply gets converted for prepaid use. There are a couple prepaid places where you can use another phone and set it up. As far as car chargers, let's clear this myth up. I've used car chargers since I got my first prepaid cell phone. I wasn't about to go out and have a dead battery at a time I might need it most. Either you misunderstood what he said, or he gave you very bad information. Perhaps he sells only junk chargers, but there's plenty of good chargers out there. I have bought car chargers for every type of phone I've had. I probably charge my phones on the vehicle more than at home. As I'm going between calls, I'll put a charge into it or top it off. And YES, it does shut off when it's fully charged! That feature actually is part of the phone usually but also there is a switch in decent chargers. All of mine have it. On my current LG phone has been in use for about 2-1/2 years. Many suggest that phone batteries are only good for a couple years. Mine is still going strong. But batteries vary. I can go about 5-6 days without having to charge it. My one Motorola had to be charged about every other day so the car charger was mandatory to have use of it. You can research it on the internet and check the chargers when you look at buying them. But if you're still overly concerned about this fallacy, there's another easy option. Get an inverter and and extra AC charger (but there too, beware of quality). Then you can use the AC charger through the lighter outlet. There are conveniences to having the cell phone. If you're out somewhere and want to see if a friend is home before driving over there a quick call can save some gas. If you're at a store and see something on sale and want to know if you should pick it up for someone, it could save an extra trip. There's a lot of legitimate uses for them other than chit-chat so although having one for emergencies is a good idea, and prepaid is the way to go in this circumstance, you'll build up time so you'll have that time to use for other things. I always caution people to check the coverage areas for phones you're considering and also, consider the areas you travel! Cell phones don't work everywhere. My first phone was Virgin Mobile and I liked it. They use the Sprint PCS system and it's very clear. However, you need to be in a major metro area or on a major freeway or highway to use it. If you get a mile or two off, you don't have a phone. So price shouldn't be your only concern. Also, for a while I carried two, and at one point, 3 different cell phones for expanded coverage. I got them so cheap that the cost wasn't a factor. Now I'm down to one, a CDMA TracFone and I'm very pleased with it. I get coverage where many others with $100+/mo contract phones don't get coverage. After I tested and experimented with cell phones to determine if I had a use for them I researched the coverage in the area and for me, around Minnesota, the Verison CDMA was the best. GSM wasn't bad and I used that for a while but I go out into the boondocks up norh and this is vastly superior. And with my age and health, I'm concerned about coverage. Don't be fooled. There's NO cell phone that gets reception everywhere. There's dead spots all over and the signal can be affected by a variety of things. I have been happy with TracFone, but I'm willing to look for the bonus codes, the special deals and the like to keep costs down. I bought a "double minutes for life" card for my phone, (some phones come with it, but no CDMA that I know of), and also have a deal where I get a bonus 30 minutes each time I add a card so adding smaller cards is better if I get deals on them. I also use the promo codes so for instance I just added a 120 minute card to my phone a month ago and got 190 bonus minutes for "free". Since I have about 700 minutes on the phone I needed to add time and you can purchase just time, which I did. For my use, I look more at monthly cost than the per-minute cost. I just added 310 minutes and 455 days for about $80 including the extra days purchased so the per-minute is tainted. So I have cell service for about $6/mo. Now, I don't give out my cell number to just anyone. I also have a Grand Central number that forwards to it that I give to people I don't totally trust with the number so I can shut it off if they abuse it. Enough rambling. I think everyone should have a cell available for emergencies and many will find them handy for other things and not have to spend $30-$300 per month for it! AND DON'T BELIEVE THE CAR CHARGER STORY!

Yes, do all the above things. Polish all the fittings. Choose great looking inexpensive door numbers that are compatible with your house style, and paint them to camouflage their homely materials. Search CL and tag sales for a handsome mailbox, wherever on your house or in your yard it is. Unless it is a lovely metal of some kind, paint it, too. Buy big plastic or fiber pots for plants at the home center, at yard sales, on CL... keep them simple and make sure they are compatible shapes and styles..paint them all the same color...and layer them down in a pleasing pattern. Buy them in pairs, if your doorway and porch are symmetrical, and make the same arrangement on either side. Plant tall and wide, for interesting foliage more than for flowers. (Remember that anything outdoors needs to be much larger in scale than indoor things, or it looks mingy.) The effect should be to organize the look, so that everything is intentional, and increase the visual size and impact of the entry doorway.