I would also say go for it; you might not move. I went through that same mindset, then we decided to stay. Maybe stick with a modest number of easycare, common things, so if you do sell, the new owner might actually take care of them, (but don't count on it). You might also be able to take some scions with you if you do move, or be able to come back later and cut a few. Blueberries, raspberries, dwarf would also be good choices. Skip the ones that take forever, like standard pear, etc., until you know your situation better. I've never tried growing fruit in pots, since we are so far north. Plant your choices in a pleasant landscape arrangement (not a tree surrounded by deer fencing in the middle of the front lawn or a messy tree that will drop fruit on the sidewalk right next to the front door, etc.), so the place will still be saleable. As mentioned above, there is also quite a learning curve with fruit, so it will give you some good practice, if nothing else. Northwoodswis

The evaporator coil didn't necessarily have to be replaced with the furnace - maybe they wanted to make it easier for themselves (at your expense) to have a coil mount flush on top of the new furnace. You'll want to replace the evaporator coil with one designed for R-410A refrigerant and one that is an acceptable match to whichever brand equipment you chose to have installed. Carrier makes good equipment, and most brands are comparable these days. So you could have a Carrier coil over the furnace - the furnace is just responsible for moving adequate airflow over the coil (which should be adjusted when the new a/c is installed). Your C26-41 Lennox coil indicates a 3 ton nominal capacity rating, so I'm guessing that may be the size of your outdoor unit. Yes, 100k and 3 tons sounds like quite a bit for the space you're trying to heat and cool.

Well wouldn't you know my luck...I have fallen in love with that Purple Chaise and Penney's website is saying it's not in stock (no future date given) Figures! I did find it on another website for the same price as Penney's but only in Pink. Look how cute it looked with the purple and a floor lamp I found on Ebay for only $54. So now I'm googling again. OR I could just get it in pink...hmmmm? THANKS for all your help everyone!

Do not be too quick to dismiss your previous plumber for suggesting a AAV (Air Admittance Valve, "studor vent") for your kitchen island. Although the Uniform Plumbing code(UPC) & International Residential Code(IRC)have radically differing views on how a kitchen island vent is to be constructed, nonetheless, both the IRC & UPC do allow an AAV for kitchen island venting. Under the IRC all structures are required to have one "Main Vent",which must run undiminished in size from the structure "Main Drain" through the roof. After that we are permitted to install an unlimited number of AAV's. Under the UPC they do not require a "Main Vent" but all fixture vents are required to be sized by the total DFU (Drainage fixture unit) load of all fixtures served by that vent. Under the UPC a structure is only permitted a maximum of one AAV, with the expressed written consent of the local inspecting authority, and in most cases a kitchen island is the only location where they will grant the exception. Now what is the difference between the kitchen drain and your bathroom drain you ask? When we have a sink on an island it is generally the only fixture attached to that line. As the water drains from the sink it pushes the air ahead of the water in the pipe. Under some circumstances this can result in a slight vacuum in the pipe behind the moving water. This partial vacuum would then result in the standing water in the trap being sucked into the pipe by siphon action and once the water has passed on down the trap is left dry, allowing sewer gas to enter the structure. In this case we install an AAV, which would permit air to enter the pipe behind the liquid flow, thus negating the suction effect. There is a slim chance that you might resolve your problem by installing an AAV on the lavatory drain line, an when you consider the cost of installing an AAV as opposed to opening walls it might be well worth your time to try it, however I suspect you have a different problem in your bathroom. You state that you hear a gurgling sound in the tub or lavatory when another drain is used. It is possible that the water in the gurgling trap is being sucked out, and in that case an AAV might resolve the problem, but I suspect you problem is not a result of negative pressure (the partial vacuum) but rather it result from positive pressure. As the water from one fixture flows through the pipe it pushes the air ahead, causing a slight positive air pressure. Normally that positive pressure would be pushed up and out a roof vent however if your system does not have the required roof vent as one fixture is draining it will push that air up through one of the adjacent fixture drains and out through the trap. Keep in mind that the air in the line contains sewer gas so as that air & sewer gas mix is pushed out you get the odor. The odor may seem greater at some times than others. That does not mean the sewer gas is not leaking because not all the component of sewer gas are odorous. In fact, one of the main gases that comprise sewer gas is totally odorless.