We have spring water to our home. It runs underground from the spring house to a cistern and then a second cachement we put in. We have an electrically powered shallow well pump in the second cistern and I have a good old fashioned pitcher pump from the first. So I have water whether the electric is working or not. It's wonderfully pure water, and I've had it tested for agricultural use, and practically neutral and extraordinarily soft. One drop of detergent, and you have suds. The taste is the best I've ever drank. My greenhouses run off an irrigation well. It's very deep, and cost thousands to drill. I have seen ads in the paper for real estate and the realtors used the phrase free water for those properties. Hah! The spring is pretty darned close to free, but a well is anything but. You are, for all intents and purposes running a non-subsidised water plant. Everything from the initial cost to the maintenance, to the safety is your responsibility. The system also requires a pressure tank and you better be a mechanic, because in our area, nobody and I mean nobody in the plumbing business will work on them or install them. So, you learn to do it yourself. I see a niche somebody could get rich in. So, you pay for water dearly sooner or later. I also own property in town. The minimum water bill is about thirty dollars bi-monthly and that is just for being hooked up, whether you use it or not. It does include refuse pick-up, sewer fees. If you use the water, the cost goes up, of course. The breakdown shows the sewerage is at least twice the cost of the water. For a community with a fairly low population, and ample water, the rates are pretty stiff. I know a family member used to get sixty dollar bi-monthly bills and she watched her consumption closely. Our water conservation district is trying to get all property owners to have assessments for storm run-off, whether they're hooked to a system or have their own sewerage systems. So far, it hasn't happened, but I imagine it's coming down the road, and would appear on our property taxes.

Here is a heart rate chart similar to what they have at my local Curves: Target heart rate chart Age / Target Zone 50-75% (beats per minute) / Average Maximum Heart Rate (100%) 20 100-150 200 25 98-146 195 30 95-142 190 35 93-138 185 40 90-135 180 45 88-131 175 50 85-127 170 55 83-123 165 60 80-120 160 65 78-116 155 70 75-113 150

Property Taxes are usually city/county/parish/district/school board tax, not a state tax, so you'll need to check how it works for your local area. In most places, it's based on an assessed value that is determined by your county property appraiser. Some states, such as Florida and California, have caps in place so that the value of a home won't go up excessively for a single homeowner, but may rise dramatically when the house is sold after many years held artificially low under a cap. There should also be some sort of method for challenging the assessed value of the home, if you think it is too high or too low (believe it or not, there are reasons to raise the assessed value of your home, but it's pretty complicated). The county property appraiser's website should tell you how to do this. In Florida, the tax rate is calculated by (budget minus other revenue such as parking tickets) divided by (assessed values of all property minus exemptions). This determines the rate for our city, county, and school board property taxes. The state has also set caps for the rate that can be imposed. (All this knowledge was worth only 1 point on the state RE exam!!!) Again, you can probably find out from your tax collector exactly how this works for your specific area. Hope this helps.

A flush mount ceiling "hood" is only a room ventilator unless it is large enough to capture the rising and expanding effluent without the effluent hitting the ceiling and dispersing. While 90 cfm/sq.ft. might not be needed at the ceiling due to effluent rate of rise slowing down some as it cools, I wouldn't go lower than that for a zero static pressure blower requirement. I would also expand the angle from 10 degrees to maybe 15 degrees to deal with further spreading with the slow down and light cross drafts. This size requirement might be met with two of the flush ceiling fixtures. Note that all of this is based on hot surface cooking -- frying and grilling. If you only make omelets or simmer pre-cooked sausage, the rising velocity is much lower and the ceiling scheme, while still needing significant size, may not need more volumetric flow rate than a smaller normally mounted hood intended for the same cooktop size. A consideration that we have addressed here in the past is the ventilation need for wall ovens that are not located under the cooktop hood. When cooking meat and opened they will spill effluent into the kitchen where it will go everywhere, including rising to the ceiling. One need not be too prissy about the cooktop effluent spillage if such a source of greasy air is commonly being emitted outside the control of the hood. While I have a separate flush mount ventilation system above my oven stack, I would rate it as less than adequate in many conditions. Hence, a ceiling register type "hood" might be expected to be marginal for a cooktop, but would aid, albeit marginally, oven effluent capture. Commercial kitchens for which the ceiling has to be the ventilation capture and containment point use perforated ceilings and intense UV above the ceilings to neutralize the grease in the volume that is connected to the exhaust duct. (Air velocity above the ceiling is not high enough to keep the grease suspended. On the kitchen side, routine ceiling cleaning is necessary.) Such a system is way out of the class of residential kitchen ventilation, unless one maintains full time kitchen drudges among his staff. kas