We did! I'm out of town right now or I'd take a photo to share. I got cold feet when the paint went partially up because it was browner in shady conditions than my sampling showed. But several neighbors stopped by to comment on what an intriguing color it is and encourage us to stick with it. The lovely black raspberry undertones that appealed to us come out more in the sun. We used AF Thunder as a trim, fyi. Also, I've noticed caponata-like colors as accent doors in some historic houses in the Northeast.

Notice that the FAQ on the site does not include information on the volume of water needed to fill the tub! Well, I did the math. Their smallest recommended size is about 65" long, 34" wide and filled about 16" deep for a bath. Note that this is not an impressive shower size. (The one in the ad is probably 60 inches wide.) That is 153 gallons of water. This 2 person air massage tub at 23" deep uses only 2 gallons more. There is a lot of cubic area lost to corners in a square tub. The one below uses 2 gallons less than the smallest recommended size and depth of your "Roman Shower" and it has a depth of 19.5" inches. Note that the woman in the Roman Shower video seems to have only 8" - 10" of water when she leaves the tub. Disabled, elderly, or otherwise less mobile people would have a heck of a time getting out of the "tub" with the Roman Shower, too. There is no heater for it, either. By the time it was deep enough for a bath, the water would have cooled a lot, warming up all the tile and substrate in the Roman Shower with its excess surface area with square corners. It may be a step above the home made sunken roman baths of the 1960s and 1970s, but it is nothing like a comfortable modern bathtub.

Sheila if you felt so inclined, maybe send a suggestion that an easy and quick way to label a photo photo for someone not very tech savvy is to just select "edit" and then use the little "T" to add a quick text box to the photo. If done soon after taking the photos, it would really help avoid the confusion of which rose is which in a jumble of photos, and avoid the potential loss of information that way concerning rare roses. It seems a shame to go through the trouble of preserving and propagating a rare rose just to be unsure of accurate photos of it... On an Android it looks like this:

Good lord, another week on gardenweb, another series of arguments about plant hardiness. Some things never change. Agree with Arbordave that the very hardiest cultivars of Deodar like 'Eisregen' should be ok for OP. Best to not plant outside until it has a bit of size, like a caliper over 3/4". A. angustifolia, aka 'parana pine', is proving to be more like 8a, perhaps just barely into the mildest parts of 7b hardy, but really 8a for safe measure. That being said, the one at the SFASU Arboretum in east Texas survived -4F in the recent Texas mega freeze. I have that direct from David Creech, the director, who I correspond with. However, that is NOT the same as it surviving that low in zones 7 or 6!. (the Arboretum is in zone 8) First of all that was a once every 20 years or less freeze for that area. The tree might not have survived it if those temps or temps anywhere near them occurred more frequently. Also, it warmed up very quickly after the freeze allowing the plant to start metabolizing again and recover from the injuries. The same would not be true further north. Trust me many have been tried along the east coast. I myself sold some seedlings to some crazy New Yorkers who gardened in the Bronx. They died. They won't survive long term north of about Virginia Beach or environs, which is 8a. The ones at the NCSU arboretum were damaged in recent winters but survived. They are right on the 8a/7b border in my opinion. It's kind of like how some Phoenix palms in El Paso survived 2F in the previous big Texas freeze in 2011. They would NEVER have survived that in overall colder climates whose recent record lows have been similar, like say, Raleigh, North Carolina. I happened to drive through El Paso a couple days after that freeze. Temps were already in the 60s and stayed that way for the rest of the winter, with dry, sunny conditions. The winter sun is very strong there because of the altitude and latitude. In a cooler, wetter place the damaged date palms would have rotted.