Building on what Gary said, if you want to make the leap, you'd probably want to start with a soil test. That will tell you if you need to add any P or K and if so, how much. Where I am, there is plenty of P and K, so I only need to add N. A general guide follows. Always mulch mow at the mower's highest setting. Water deeply and infrequently. If you have problems with annual weeds germinating in the spring, apply a pre emergent when the forsythia is in bloom in your area. Use a fertilizer in the late spring. The particular fertilizer you use would depend on the soil test. In the absence of a soil test, I used to think a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10, 16-16-16 etc) was best, but now lean toward a nitrogen only fertilizer (21-0-0, 39-0-0, 46-0-0 etc). The reason is that P and K stick around pretty well, so they may have been building up over time. When you fertilize, use enough to apply 1 lb of actual N per 1000 sq ft of lawn. I ignore the spreader settings and get the amount of fertilizer I calculate I need, set the spreader fairly low and keep spreading until it's all gone, making multiple passes in multiple directions to try to get even coverage. If you have broadleaf weeds, you can spot spray them when they are actively growing (a week or so after fertilizing will probably do the best). Don't spray when daily highs are abouve about 80-85 F. DON'T fertilize in the summer unless you use an organic fertilizer. And even then, apply at a lower rate. Fertilizing in the summer makes the grass grow fast and use more water when you really want it to slow down and use less water. In the fall, you can fertilize once it cools off a bit, and the final fertilization should be after the top growth has stopped but while the grass is still green. For that one, always use a nitrogen only fertilizer and apply 1 lb of actual N per 1000 sq ft of lawn.

I was mainly trying to say how difficult it is to decide on a new W and D. It is hard to make decisions when you actually take the time to learn and research products!! Sometimes it might be easier to just go to the store, and pick out something based on looks and what the salesperson tells you!! Ha ha I am now leaning to an" old school" Speed Queen top loader. I went to the local mom and pop store yesterday and they had the basic set on the floor so I could see it. It is a "boring" old fashioned white top loader but high quality. I won't get the new look (cool fl) or the built-in heater or save too much on water. But I will have full control over everything, and that is what I am used to now. So if it will fit in my space, I will go with the AWN542 SQ washer and top of line electric dryer. If the store had a Miele front loader on the sales floor (meaning they sold enough of them) and there was technical support in our area (which there is not), I would probably buy one. I hope others who are struggling can finally figure out what will work best for them! I know I am sick of thinking about washers when I go to bed!! ugh! :)

Wow you summed it up, there should be a 12 step program. Right now I am supposed to be working, which by the way has a deadline of 3 o'clock today, but no here I am checking things out on here. I am so addicted!! I wish so much I found this site sooner because I would have made some different decisions with my kitchen remodel, but am grateful I finally stumbled on it. When I think back, poor Buehl, I had no idea what I was doing and would email her directly with all my questions. She was always so kind and responded everytime. Finally figured out how to post( which was so easy), but I was in a mess with a leak that cuased the whole remodel and in a real hurry for answers and didn't take the time to figure it out. SORRY BUEHL AND THANK YOU!!!! Love-love-love this site......

One of the problems you run into as a designer is the client constantly making changes because nothing was defined or put in writing at the beginning of the project. The questionnaire is the designer's bare minimum of getting your requirements in writing. I would suggest that you develop your own programming document and give that to the designer. You should be able to do that in 2-3 days if you know what you want and how your house should function. Start with an overall description of the house with the number of rooms by name and their function. Then describe the relationship between the rooms. Once you do that, go through the house room-by-room and describe, in detail, how each room should function, the features it should have, and the type of finishes. Make numbered lists for each room such as - Master bathroom shall be attached to the master bedroom and shall have the following features: 1. Dual sinks 2. Walk-in shower with no door. 3. Jetted soaker tub. 4. Water closet shall be separated from main bath area and shall have pocket door. 5. Wall in back of sinks shall be glass tile from counter top level to ceiling. Color as selected by Owner. 6. Counter top shall be soapstone. 7. Floor shall be plank style porcelain tile. Color as selected by Owner. 8. Shower shall be full Kerdi system. 8; Shower floor shall be black pebble type tile. 9. Shower walls shall be porcelain tile from shower base to ceiling. Tile size and color to be selected by Owner. Bathroom walls shall have 40-inch high 12x24 inch porcelain tile wainscoting. Color to be selected by Owner. Bath towel bar shall be ladder type and heated. Plumbing valve fixtures shall be Kohler with brushed nickel finish. Sinks and toilet shall be Kohler color as selected by Owner. etc., etc. You should be as interested in the house design as you expect the designer to be; and if you're not getting the attention to detail you want - then be proactive and create your own programming document. I created a programming document for the architect who designed my new house. The document is 13 pages in length and gave the architect defined design features that he could essentially use as checklist to make sure the house had all of the design elements that I wanted. It's a winning design strategy as it give everyone a common basis for the design, and should reduce changes later in the project as the basis of design is defined and in writing. This will serve as a reference document for the remainder of the project, and should be given to the builders to bid from in addition to the plans. It gives the builders confidence that the owner knows what they want and also gives the builders a reference source from which they can ask questions as they formulate their bid.