Climbers are so hard when you drop into zone 4. Good thing pink is one of your choices; you'll find most successful hardy roses are some shade of pink. (Your request for yellow however, is doomed, I fear to tell you.) I've spent years (and $$$) experimenting and rejecting those climbers that are not cane hardy. It is a long list, believe me. I hope you don't go by the "is listed as hardy to zone..." route and waste your time. Ask for those who have experience; that's the best way. I have a few climbers that are once blooming and I accept the lack of repeat for a rose that won't die back on me. My most reliable is Champagne Arches, aka Nancy Parker. That rose is Iron Clad hardy and really tall (but be warned, very thorny too.) My Lilian Gibsons aren't very tall yet this being only their second season, but came through winter with no damage and right now are preparing to bust out all over with bloom. So far I'm impressed and I'd feel safe recommending that rose to you. I have several of the Geschwind ramblers, but none is big enough to really show what they can do and some I fear never will be, not being truly hardy enough. The best of the lot are Geschwind's Norland Rose and Geschwind's Orden. They are in their 3rd year here and have some potential for retaining their canes over winter, I think. The others, Asta von Parpat (knocked down to the ground every winter for the last 6 years) and Erinnerung an Brod (the same extreme dieback for 3 years) are doomed here, I think. Prinz Hirzenprinzchen and Inermis Morletti, I can't even find at all this spring. Sigh. Others I've allowed to stay that make only a short plant are Ramblin' Red, Viking Queen, American Pillar and Russelliana. They're all wonderful roses, but not climbers here in zone 4. I won't bore you with the list of failed roses that I've taken out, given away or just had completely die away over the last dozen years. But believe me, if I heard about a tall, hardy rose, I've probably tried it. John Davis has my vote for the best reblooming pink rose you can train as a climber. My sister has William Baffin on the side of a tall arbor, but it is a chore keeping him well behaved. My own W.Baffin is grown as a monstrous free standing shrub...much easier!

No mini is truly resistant to BS. But, you could go with one of the more restrained hybrid musks that take rather well to being used as a pillar rose. Pax, Penelope, Cornelia, and Will Scarlet are all lax enough to need support and will respond well enough to pruning to keep happy on a pillar.

" The fence itself belongs to our house, though - so maybe I can do whatever I like?" Absolutely. You own and can dispose of whatever comes over onto your side of the line, in spite of where it originates. If a neighbor's tree limb crosses the line (which extends in a plane continuous from below the earth into to the sky) you can cut it off if you don't like it. It's often the case though that plants along a border benefit parties on both sides of the line, so crossover limbs are left and things are agreeably worked out. But if you have objectives that are impaired by plants coming from the neighbor's side, you are certainly within your rights to give the haircut back to the line. What's growing on the fence looks like the typical weedy vines planted by birds and ignored by both neighbor's (especially the one on whose property they began.) It sounds to me like the "shade" you are describing for the spot that is the subject of this thread, is shade at low/ground level but that there is not especially shade higher up, and that during the summer when the earth faces a more southerly direction, there will be plenty of sun. If there's no trees overhead, and it's not on the north side of a tall structure, there's going to be sun.

prepped the soil for these garden beds ==>>> where are you.. whats the base soil ... remove all fabric ... it doesnt matter what kind ... most seed seed is air borne.. and minutes after you put it down.. seeds accumulating on top ... and sooner or later.. they will be growing down thru it.. and then it will be impossible to remove .. trust us on this .... how did you amend the soil.. what did you put into the soil ... whats been the ambient weather since spring.. e.g. here in MI ... weve had 6 weeks of drought ... and.. as a newb ... do understand.. your garden is not going to look like a disney garden.. some years are good.. some are bad ... and we just roll with it ... also ... your plants can be subject to all kinds of stresses .. until they are FULLY ESTABLISHED ... and it depends what kind of plant on how long it takes .... your shrub may not be fully established until next year ... oh.. your a renter ... leave the fabric there.. and just move.. easiest way to get rid of bindweed ... lol .. sorry ken