I saw your question and thought this would help you. I came across a product that works wonderfully and can be used with many different applications. It is called Clean Deck Graphite. You should prepare all your snow removal equipment by using Clean Deck Graphite on the snow blower outlet chute and deflector, the scraper bar and on the shave plate and auger too. If you have a snow plow blade and a snow shovel, the product works great on them also to prevent the build-up of wet snow. For regular snow removal, you only have to apply Clean Deck Graphite once a year vs. the other non-stick options you spoke about which have to be applied every time you go out to remove any snow. Cleaning up after you are done is pretty easy too as the snow will not stick to your equipment if you coated everything properly and if there is any small residue left behind on the coated areas, you just lightly rinse it off with a water hose. I have really enjoyed using this product. They have a website, but I do not think it is allowed to be posted here in this forum. Just search for the name of the product and you should be able to find it. I hope this helps.

When in dought if you can remove them, dissemble, clean and repack. This includes you wheels from the rims also Why wait till the fail or get stuck. I try to avoid direct spray contact when I pressure wash my equipment with the sentive areas. I usually use a rope or paper towel and swab the actual bearing split areas with WD40 to clean them and direct the nozzle from direct contact when it might blow water inside electrical or bearing surfaces. Another bad idea is to put the tractor awy wet. blow or towel it off to get most of the moisture off so it don't rust real bad.

Could you be in touch with the belt or treadmill manufacturer about that? They may be able to give you some high and low temperature guidelines. Things do tend to contract when they get cold and expand when warm. Also, maybe using the treatmill when the belt was stiff and cold caused the separation. I really don't know--just my thoughts. Good for you for using it.

Home depot didn't have the stuff pictured above and I still haven't been able to find the right o-rings in my town, in the short term I'll probably buy seals from the Saeco dealer closest, and get a kit from McMaster0Carr for the future. In the end, for lubricant I got Dow-Corning 111 valve lubricant, seems ideal, cost me CDN$18 but it's a pretty big tube, should last me...forever, but it can also be used in electromechanical applications too. I have to admit, I did wonder about K-Y (blushes) but since it's water-soluble I figured it wouldn't be the best choice! Meantime I have to put up with caffeine withdrawal headaches or (shudder) drip/filter coffee... Here is a link that might be useful: Food grade silicone lubricant