It's pretty standard to build cabinetry out of plywood with veneer -- big enough sheets of nice straight flat actual hardwood would be ridiculously expensive if not totally unavailable -- today's trees/lumber do not compare to the trees of years past, which is why antique furniture is built out of solid wood and today's furniture isn't. That said, a good plywood with a nice veneer will be beautiful and pretty much indistuinguishable from solid wood. I am not familiar with Cali Closets, but we have a closet system from closetmaid and while perfectly functional in the closet, it is definitely fake looking and not an aesthetic I'd want to feature in my living area. In my experience, MDF with veneer never looks quite as good as plywood -- I don't know if it's the veneer they use or what, but the MDF I have seen has always had a thermofoil or paper-type veneer which looks bad and doesn't hold up. Maybe Cali closets uses a wood veneer though, in which case it would be about the same as plywood. A local contractor will also be able to customize the shelves to fit your space, while cali closets may have basic sizes that you would be limited to -- I remember trying to figure out how to best span our closet with the 2 standard sizes of shelving units that closetmaid offered at the time. I also think you will probably end up with better construction from the local guy, as it will probably be custom built on-site and be less of a "modular" type construction. As far as using the local contractor vs. a national franchise, I would get references from the local guy (with pictures or even an in-person visit if feasible) and don't overpay up front -- the risk of a local one-man-type guy is that he takes your deposit and runs. But that is rare, and getting references/checking licenses/vetting with the BBB should prevent most of that. In the end, I think you'll get a better end result from a good local carpenter than you will from Cali Closets but that's just MO, and like I said, I have never dealt with Cali Closets.

laughable, you'll fit 3 comfortably and 4 very very tightly as everyone's said. The chokepoint is the seat by the sink run. I agree with everyone else that 42" range/island aisle would give you some much needed room at the chokepoint. I did read what you said about trying it above, but just wanted to add one thought which is if you just tried it briefly it would naturally feel tight because it's not what you're used to. If your current island is moveable I really think it would be a worthwhile experiment to try it at 42" for a full week and reevaluate at the end of that time. I say that from experience, but the other way around. Pre-reno my aisle width was 36" which was perfect for me. I was totally used to working in it, but when we reno'd we put a range opposite a dishwasher drawer and I wanted to be able to open both fully so in the reno we budged our island back 6". Well when I first started working there post-reno it felt like bizarro world, a canyon-distance away, and I was rather regretting the change. Of course after a while it became quite natural and now I laugh to think that I was ever even remotely ruing the change. All that to say it might (?) be the same for you but in reverse. Just a thought ... feel free to ignore if you like. :-)

Hey there COUNTRY! Long time, eh? EASY to make...cut out 5 in. squares and sew (I hand sew with running stitch while watching tv) 3 sides. Turn right side out and stuff with a nylon (one square will hold a nylon from knee to toe - I kinda fold it and fit it into the 'bag' or square. Then I tack it with embroider floss in the center to hold it there. Then I whipstitch the open end and have one square done. Then layout all your squares and pin together in a row...sew one to the other and then sew the rows together. I haven't sewn the squares together yet and will probably do that on machine as well as the rows. It is reversible this way, too. No need to back or border it. Washable/Dryable. Salvaging fabrics from things you know or like would be really special! I did order most of mine on ebay 'precision cut' quilt squares. I like 5 in. -- they take less stuffing than larger squares and easier to sew and handle than the smaller ones. I didn't want any duplicate patterns in mine, but I do have a few matches. Charm quilts can have matches for all the patterns EXCEPT for one square that is the only one of its kind OR all different squares with only one that has a match. Also, they have I SPY squares that have interesting things in them - great for kids quilts. Jannie...GO FOR IT...it is EASY! (and FUN!) Nice talking to ya all...nola_anne

ncamy- This isn't exactly the same thing but here is a drawing of our island. We are not having cabinets down the center of the long part b/c we don't really need any more cabinets so we would rather have the extra leg room. Instead my Dad will be building a long regtangular "box" down the center. Off of this box will be large L brackets that will come off and support the long sides of the top. She mentioned 3 brackets down each side for a total of 6. I'm a bit confused on the details of the brackets b/e initially I thought they were utilitarian and not seen, but then she comments about them being cast iron and about $40-$50 a piece and she gets them from some special metal working place (will let you know more once I get further clarification). Then the far curved end of ours will be supported by 6 inch deep, 42" wide cabinet with no doors, matching stained inside and beadboard paneled inside back. Two legs will be there also. There will be about 12" of overhand past that shallow cabinet so we can pull up two more small stool if need be. Not sure if this is the "best" way, or how much its like your island, but there was definitely mention of large L brackets coming off the center support (which in your case would be a row of actual cabinets instead of a false box like mine.)