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Sun, Aug 27, 06 at 23:12
| Hi. i'm having a baby in less than 4 weeks and have a Brother innovis machine. i'm trying to embroider on baby rompers/bodysuits (100% cotton, 170-220 gsm) and am having trouble finding the right stabiliser to use. i don't want to use too thick a stabiliser (u can see the cut-away through the fabric and they leave a horrible line) but the tear away doesn't seem stable enough. i've seen some clothing which has a light mesh over the finished embroidery as well so the stitches don't scratch the baby.
if anyone has any advice, i'd appreciate it. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by islay_corbel (My Page) on Mon, Aug 28, 06 at 2:16
| Congratulations! I've never embroidered on this type of garment, but I would iron some Floriani Dream Weave before to add some body to the garment, then use a cut away no show mesh, then iron more of the foriani product to prevent the little one from being scratched by the embroidery. Let us now how you get on. |
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- Posted by stitcheasy2003 (My Page) on Mon, Aug 28, 06 at 7:37
| Hi Use Sew Stable Polymesh no show stabilizer. Or any other brand that is a polymesh. Sew Stable Cutaway Polymesh no show stabilizer, Fusible Polymesh no show stabilizer, tearaway Polymesh no show stabilizer Its very soft and is made for being next to the body. |
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- Posted by joansews4u (My Page) on Tue, Aug 29, 06 at 14:58
| I use a nylon tricot interfacing from the regular interfacing area. It has a one way stretch. You iron it on with that stretch going opposite of the garment stretch. I then hoop a tear away & spray it with adhesive & simply lay the garment on it to embroidery. After I remove the tear away, I iron on another layer of the tricot....direction does not matter here. This layer covers any roughness of the embroidery threads. I do have to go back & iron this after a few washings because you can't use a real hot iron to attach it. It tends to loosen at the edges after a few washings. I use this method for all children's wear where the stitching will touch their body. I use the tricot as a base layer for all knits. I have a 7 year old great niece that swears by this method & knows exactly how to fix bought items that scratch her too! Shortly after I first learned this method, she was trying to tell my daughter the secret way I fixed things & my daughter had no idea what she was talking about. They came to my house for something & she went in my sewing area & got a piece of the interfacing & took it to my daughter saying "This is what you need". We laugh at the 7 year old teaching the 37 year old new ideas. |
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- Posted by movingwest (My Page) on Sat, Sep 2, 06 at 16:06
| I use water soluble stuff. wash it once and it's all gone. Plus I always use poly thread not rayon as poly takes bleaching better on kiddy clothing. |
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| A good professional backing for clothing like this is M.E.T. Pro Specialty #90 from Midwest Embroidery; it's a web mesh weave and very strong yet lightweight and soft, (www.midwest-thread.com). If you want a very soft tear away, use Hollingsworth & Vose #1885, we use this on children’s school uniforms and they wear just fine with no extra work. Sometimes you can use an iron-on to cover the stitches as others are suggesting here, however you will almost never see this on ready-made products. If your digitizing is correct, adjust your stitch density a bit low and the embroidery should not be heavy enough to scratch if you have the proper backing. Try to find a close match to the fabric (like at walmart) and test it several different ways till your happy before you run the real thing. Good Luck |
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