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FSL -- When is it safe to skip the tulle?

Posted by gazaah (My Page) on
Sat, Jan 31, 09 at 21:15

So I was playing with Ultra Solvy and embroidery, and I found I could make freestanding designs without any support if they were made of A. Triangles or interwoven geometric shapes, B. Metallic thread on the bobbin and spool. The geometric shapes hold themselves in the right shape because of all the corners and cross bars acting as support. The metallic thread, due to its plastic covering, is stiff o the point where I can make freestanding charms to add to beading, even wobbly shapes or circles.

Here's the triangle shapes, based off the Sierpinski triangle:

So when else can I skip the tulle? I can't find any guides to designing FSL, only how to use designs that already exist.

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: FSL -- When is it safe to skip the tulle?

I bought a tutorial a while back but it really didn't tell me anything that I hadn't already figured out on my own. I have learned the most from examining designs that were made by others. You can find a few free files here and there. I sewed them out on the machine to see how sturdy they were then examined the available properties in PE design and watched them in the stitch simulator a few times.

As far as skipping the tulle goes, your stitches need a "skeleton" to keep them from unraveling. The stocking at the bottom of the page at the link below shows an example of what I mean. There are running stitches that are sewn out right before and are eventually underneath the thick satin stitch lines giving the satin stitch something to hold on to.

Here is a link that might be useful: Free FSL stocking design

RE: FSL -- When is it safe to skip the tulle?

Thanks! I used Google Book Search to try and preview what was out there--not a whole lot.

So far it seems the strongest when I do three lines of stitching below a narrow satin stitch. I'm going to try doing pairs of lines under wider satin stitching next.

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