Most likly suspect would be a large filter capacitor in the power supply. These were used for low voltage to the memory ic. The filter has probably lost its capacity due to age, after all, it's 25 years old.

I have no service information on this set, but I would suspect a filter capacitor which would have a large diameter and short height. Also it would have high capacity of 2,000 uf or more, with a supply voltage of about 3-6v.

Good luck,

pw

That's very hepful, Pee_Wee!

Actually, I have an R-5, R-8, and an R-9 (all Yamahas). Normally, I wouldn't bother trying to fix lesser quality receivers, but in my opinion these are three of Yamaha's best. Very low distortion levels and conservative power ratings. Both the 5 and the 8 seem to suffer from the same memory issues.

If there a aren't too many capacitors fitting your description, I'll start replacing them one by one, and hope for the best. I might get lucky.

Thanks again!

Look for a bttery that looks just like a flat disc type 3v battery except it has solder prongs attached to it. That will be the backup battery. My Yamaha has a bad one also and I have a new one to put in but it's just a matter of unhooking everything and soldering it in (I'm lazy). Sometimes the battery is on the main board and sometimes it is on the front panel board where you can't see it unless you remove it from the front panel.

Steve...great information. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. Actually, I have three older Yamahas: the R-5, R-8, and R-9. The first two have the memory problem. I suspected it was probably a battery, but after taking the top off the R-5, I couldn't find a battery anywhere. There were MANY filter capacitors (of the type Pee Wee described). Didn't know which was which since I do not have a wiring diagram. The power supply appears to be sealed, so no dice there. I saw no battery on the main board, so perhaps it's behind the front panel (as you mentioned) or in the power supply case.

Which Yamaha receiver do you have? And could you please describe where more precisely your battery is? Thanks very much for your help. I appreciate it.

The battery that you are looking for, looks like a filter capacitor, except that it's usually about the diamater of a .50 cent piece and apx 1/4 to 1/2 thick.

Good hunting,

pw

Pee Wee: when I opened up the R-5 I didn't see any capacitor type component that matched that description, but I'll definitely take another look and report back if I get lucky. I'm guessing it may be located behind the front panel, as Steve suggested.

Amazing, I have an R9 with exactly the same problem. Please post your final solution. This must be a common problem with units of this vintage. I agreee that the R9 and others are worth saving.

I've looked inside both my R-5 and R-8 and didn't see any obvious suspects. Nothing that looked like either a large button type battery or thick filter capacitor-type battery. My next step will be to gain access to the board immediately behind the front panel. Will probably try the R-8 first and once I've either hit pay dirt or given up...will be sure to report back here. I'll also take photos of the battery location...if I ever find it.

For anyone interested, the Yamaha R-5, R-8, and R-9 are three--circa 1980s--outstanding 2-channel receivers: 0.015% THD at full (50, 80, and 100+ watts RMS/channel) power, across the full frequency.

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I believe I've located the battery, but I'm not sure.

Pee Wee---I could sure use your expert opinion on this. What do you think? Have I hit paydirt?

It's been a while, but I recall replacing very similar capacitor batteries that had died on a couple of my old XT clones.

This is from my Yamaha R-8, behind the front panel. To gain access I removed quite a number of screws in the process of removing the main cover and front panel. Then I unscrewed the board located behind the front panel. What you see above is the back side of the board.

When you have a chance, Pee Wee, I'd appreciate your advice.

It's not the above part. If I could remove the picture I would. This particular fourm would be considerably more useful if we could edit our posts. I've suggested it to the powers-that-be but did not receive a reply.

I removed and soldered in a replacement for the above and it made no difference. Several online parts sites I checked did not stock a replacement "battery." And so far Yamaha will not give me any technical help, other than "send it to an authorized repair facility."

Will keep trying to isolate the problem part.

I don't give up easily. Further information I've managed to dig up indicates this receiver may not employ flash non-volatile memory. So perhaps this receiver has old fashioned eproms. I don't think it has a "battery" per se. But of course I could be wrong. I may search for the voltage source that feeds the eprom(s) by tracing the wires around it. I may also check the memory units for dropping voltage..

Anyway, I will upate this thread with details if I ever manage to get closer to an actual resolution.

I hate it when people ask for and receive advice here, and then disappear, never to be heard from again. Coming back with details on how/if the problem was solved would help those of us with similar problems.

With that in mindhereÂs how I fixed my Yamaha R-5 memory problem.

Yamaha parts: (714) 522-9888, Mon-Fri 8am-4pm PST
Electrolytic capacitor, 0.047F/5.5v, #WD292000, $7 + $5 shipping

According to Yamaha this capacitor retains programmed memories for the R-5, R-8, and R-9 receivers. I know for a fact it worked on my R-5, I but cannot vouch for any other model. After tearing my R-8 apart, however, I couldnÂt locate the capacitor. But IÂll try again.

An online repair shop wanted ~$125 plus round trip shipping. Definitely not a cost effective solution. The owner/repair man admitted to not having much experience with this particular repair. I have a sneaking suspicion heÂs monitoring this thread for the solution :) ...

Before installing the capacitor, donÂt forget to check its voltage!. Of the three I ordered one arrived virtually dead.

Be aware that complete disassembly of the unit is required to gain access to the back of the circuit board. And the part must be soldered in place. As a matter of fact, *everything* is soldered in place on this receiver. Nothing is unplug, plug in. This is not a job for a beginner, unless the receiver has been mentally written off and the project is approached as a learning experience. In which case, by all means go for it.

The following photos tell the story and should be self explanatory. If anyone has any questions, let me know.

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Hi.

I'd like to know if there's a a different garden-variety generic capacitor that can be used instead of this exact-fit OEM item. I'm a great audio person, but not at the component part level, so I don't have this knowledge.

I don't like the idea of being beholden to Yamaha for exact replacements if they can be avoided, for these reasons:
- The OP said that one of the OE parts arrived dead. Methinks that the caps in the official parts bin may be failing from age, and that more of them will do so in the same bin. Better to have a "plan B."
- My late bench technician had to toss a Yamaha receiver he was repairing after: after paying a king's ransom for one proprietary IC on the spot market (Yamaha had none), there was a second bad IC that couldn't be had for any price.
- So, it'd be advantageous to know that whenever possible, generic parts could be used after the manufacturer's original stock ran out or was bad -- or, for example, if the mfr changed their mind later and imposed insufferable considions on ordering ("Sure. We'll be happy to sell it to you. That'll be .25 for the part, $75 handling, and we have a $150 minimum order."). You know the drill, right?

Thanks muchly.

Richard Steinfeld

Thanks, cgalny, for following up so thoroughly. It's what I do, too. I wish that more people had good netiquette.

I'm finding it impossible to get a good printout of this page -- no matter what I do, text runs off the page to the right.

I'm using a Yamaha R-8 as a bedroom receiver with very revealing speakers. I like the sound, and I have 20-20 analytical hearing. I was also surprised to find that the gimmicky sound-altering gee-gaws are rather pleasant.

Whether you know it or not, the remote control codes are in my Zenith/Allegro aftermarket remote unit that I bought at Costco for $7 ten years ago. I sure can't say the same thing for Luxman! Thus, it's likely that codes for these Yamaha products are in the libraries of other aftermarket remote makers too. Unreal.

Richard

Richard,

Thanks for keeping this thread alive.

Im sure you can use any capacitor (battery) with the same specifications and general size. And as long as the voltage is the same Im guessing (note: I am NOT an expert) that the 0.047F spec is not as critical. But naturally the closer, the better. Generally speaking, I see no reason why you couldnt use generic replacements if the specs match. And sometimes, but *not* always, even getting close will be good enough or even better.

Actually, this R-5 turned out to be a basket case. Ive literally re-soldered half the main circuit board, and each time I take the board off to resolder bad joints, more bad ones crop up when I put it all back together. The tuner is now dead (bad power supply cap and tracings) and the phono input is non functional (no idea why). Im wondering if the tracing material on the entire board may be iffy. But it still works and sounds amazingly good on CD, aux/video, and tape inputs. If anything, the resoldering has improved the sound quality.

I love the old (70s and 80s) Yamaha amps/receivers but every single one Ive bought used (from eBay) has had undisclosed problems.

In my opinion the R-5 sounds more natural and somehow better than the R-8, even though the latter is more expensive, more powerful and has more bells and whistles. But I dont think either one was designed with future repairs in mind. They both sound much better than most cheapie and even many midrange two channel receivers.

If youre having trouble printing this page, try saving the photos separately and then printing, if needed. You can also save the text into a WP, from which you could of course print.

Yes. My experience with eBay purchases, too. And I used to have a custom stereo business and should know better, right?

I fear that you have become the victim of junky manufacturing. There was a point during the 80s when Yamaha severely reduced the quality of their stuff -- I went into a store and couldn't believe that I was actually able to bend an amplifier in my hands -- and, of course, bend the PCB too. The whole thing just flopped around. Did they apply the same philosophy to their pianos?

The look of that humungous circuit board in your photo doesn't inspire confidence in the integrity of the traces (this is the kind of board that I'm used to seeing inside a cheap VCR). That coupled with all those just-long-enough soldered wires makes for a nightmare when it's repair time. I have no love for the engineers and product managers who designed and approved this work. I consider it to be dishonest manufacturing. The board has to be handled with care, and the way the product is made causes lots of struggling and yanking. At least, that's how it looks to my eye, not having actually been inside this thing for more than a moment.

My R-8's video A-B switches are behaving strangely -- the pushbuttons won't always work. I suspect that they're shorting behind the panel. No big deal because this unit will never see video running through it.

My late technician, from whom I bought this R-8, liked the sound of the product (he was a musician, like me), but he wasn't thrilled about the physical design. You should have listened to him curse about Sony, however -- long, lusty diatribes. And I could talk about the first time I inspected the innards of a few Rotel pieces -- made with wrap-under cabinets.

What is a "battery capacitor?" How is it different from a regular cap? I'm more familiar with less fancy equipment and have never had to deal with this before.
Also, is the circuit board the same for all three models? In other words, will I find that capacitor in the same spot in my R-8?

It is not unusual for a lower-powered amplifier to sound better in a given room with a given set of speakers. The reasons are pretty complex (I won't get into it). Some of the tube folks are tripping out on amps of 10 wpc. This phenomenon will be revealed with classical music, not so much with rock material.

I'll try your suggestion about printing. Unfortunately, I'm using Open Office, which seems to glom onto the underlying HTML and refuses to deal with it as straight text. However, I think that I can paste it into an ASCII notepad-type utility, and then out to Open Office.

Thanks so much for the great photos. It's a real treat!

Richard

Actually, of all the Yamaha 80s receivers Ive owned my favorite is still the R-1000. Ive never had occasion to open it up, but it sounds fabulous and has one of the best tuners Ive ever heard. People are catching on because its eBay market value has increased. You used to be able to pick up nice specimens for $80-$100 but forget about it now.

And yes, taking the R-5 apartand keeping it that way--requires much more of a struggle than should be necessary. The R-8 is even worse. As mentioned, it seems the designers didnt expect, or care about, repairs. I just didnt feel like unsoldering any more than necessary to gain comfortable access to the areas I was interested in.

Maybe the entire R-x line is plagued with bad solder joints. My R-8 has recently begun to short out one of the speaker output pairs. Its just anecdotal evidence, but who knows...

I probably shouldnt have called the memory capacitor a battery capacitor. Sorry, but I dont know enough about its electrical characteristics to provide an intelligent description. Its not really a battery. When first installed it takes a split second to "charge." Yamaha informed me that it should hold its memory for about a week without AC power. But I have several cheap Yamaha tuners, and one of them was sitting in the garage, unplugged, for at least six months. When I plugged it in last week its memory was still fully intact. Perhaps they employed a different memory retention method.

Yamaha claims the R-5, R-8, and R-9 all use the same memory capacitor, but I cant vouch for this, because when I looked inside the R-8 I couldnt find anything that looked like the capacitor Yamaha provided. The R-5 and R-8 circuit boards are completely different. When I eventually get around to the R-8 Ill post photos if I have any luck finding the memory capacitor the second time around.

I understand that some lower powered amps sound better than more powerful models...mainly because Ive heard it with my own ears many times. Im currently listening to Athena AS-F2 and Paradigm Atom speakers and I can hear the difference between the R-5 and R-8. My main speakers for many years were four original Large Advents, which I still have. I dont listen to them very often nowadays, but I still have a special fondness for them. Boy that bass is really something.

I found the memory capacitor for the R-8. There are apparently two versions of this receiver. The one pictured below is the 120v only version. I'm assuming, but am by no means certain, that the 120v/240v version has a similar CB layout.

The capacitor is buried near the edge of the vertical circuit board, where it meets the adjacent horizontal circuit board. Look for it on the horizontal CB, near the edge.

I haven't gotten around to actually replacing it but thought I'd post the information anyway. By the way, it looks pretty much identical to the R-5's capacitor.

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(I'm working from defective memory re: your last two posts).

If people are bidding up the R-1000, this may not be such a bad thing. My feeling is that there's no point in using super tuner curcuitry when there's virtually nothing worth listening to on FM (at least around here in the SF Bay Area for me). We have exactly one station that's worth good audio: it's jazz. The remaining classical station isn't very interesting and listeners are blown from their chairs with blasted commercials. So, I'm more interested in integrated amps and/or separates. The integrateds should be less complicated, too, when it comes time to fix them. I've also been using a Denon integrated amp that's really excellent.

My late bench technician was always fixing hairline cracks on PCBs -- and a humungous board like your R5's invites bending the board during repair, and thus breaking a few more traces. As you know already, I detest this type of engineering and take a dim view of companies that put out products like this.

Thanks for posting the R-8 photo. I can't quite see what's going on due to the size; how does the project look to you in terms of difficulty?

From what you've written, the capacitor's characteristics don't strike me as unusual, but the physical aspects sure do -- a sign of a zealous designer right out of college. I wonder if the engineers get courted by parts salesmen the same way that doctors are beseiged by pharmaceutical hustlers.

Oh, the second of your photos just finished loading -- that's clearer now.

I have an Aiwa or Akai low-power digital receiver from around 1983 that just won't ever forget stations. I use it to record off the air with a timer; it came out of storage with all stations intact after spending 3 or so years in a box. I don't know how it retains memory but I'm pretty sure it's not a battery.

Regarding the two versions of the R-8: I've seen a number of Japanese stereo components made two ways: one is a US-only, or US-Canadian-only version. The other is an all-world version with a multi-tapped power transformer and some type of easy user-performed voltage change. These products often won't come with a plug on the cord. These versions are typically use the same main board, with different power components. The small difference in power frequency isn't a problem the way it was with big tape machines and old turntables.

What do I like about this Yamaha receiver? It seems to sound good on classical music: the acid test. It has an excellent loudness compensation setup -- the rare continuously-variable form -- a fine, humane form of excellent acoustical matching.

What I don't like:
- Owner- and repairman-be-damned internal layout, which runs up the repair bills.
- Cheapo heat sinks.
- Style-over-substance control labeling; I gotta shine a strong light on this thing and wear stronger glasses in order to see which buttons I'm pushing. Terrible human engineering -- all the buttons feel the same.
- Confusing radio controls.
- Backlit negative custom station labels -- the kind that everyone loses.
- An expensive, large, heavy, anodized aluminum hinged cover that's in the way. Trendy, though.

I don't remember how good the headphone circuit is -- it would be pleasant surprise if it contained a superb headphone amp.

Richard

I have found memory capacitors in both the MCM and Mouser catalogs. MCM's .047 and .47 mfd are $4.13 (I wasn't certain about the value as you specified it -- see below).

Mouser has what sure appears to be the exact replacement by Elna in three different case styles (laser-welded horizontal [as in your R-5 photo], laser vertical, and non-welded [as in your R-8 photo]). Voltage rating from both suppliers is 5.5v.

Mouser also has Aerogel capacitors that'll work in memory applications, but physically different and specified for 5.0 volts.

Although I'm an audio expert, I'm not a good circuit surgeon, so there are people with hands-on knowledge better than mine about discreet parts!

With that disclaimer, the Elna caps from Mouser look excellent, and Mouser has provided drawings and dimensions like a responsible seller should. The only "47" of any kind in the horizontal version that looks like the exact item you found in the R-5 is .47f, not .047F ($2.28).

The prices of the non-welded-case version that looks like what you depicted in your R-8 photo is available in both .47 and .047 $1.76 and $4.07 respectively.

I have heard only positive comments from others about Mouser (with whom I've got no personal experience). My experience with MCM has been consistently frustrating over a 15 year period. While the merchandise has mostly been good, their listings almost always omit important information, and it's been a hassle to get specifics from them, sometimes provided begrudgingly, and sometimes not at all with a flip-off. So, their memory caps might work properly, but then again, they might not.

I'm puzzled as to why Yamaha would mount the memory cap on what appears to be an output stage board rather than on the main board.

Richard

Thanks for the parts sources. Thats good to know. I may actually need this information since I just picked up another sick R-8. The frequency readout is way off (no obvious pattern) but the rest of the receiver is tip-top. Dont believe its bad solder joints this time. I was fortunate enough to also acquire the service manual so I may try and noodle this through myself. Id say my odds at success are slim and slimmer, but I may get lucky.

I still havent had time to get to it, but Im guessing replacing the R-8's memory capacitor should be easier than the R-5's, mainly because the cap. is located on a smaller, easier to handle circuit board. Which means youd be less likely to bend the circuit board every which way while taking it off-thereby minimizing the possibility of dislodging marginal solder connections. The overall design quality and workmanship also looks a tad better than the R-5. I was listening to another R-8 today (see above) and am now not quite so sure the R-5 sounds better.

I also just bought a new cheapie turntable, aPyle PLTTB1 for about $75 from Amazon, and am beginning to once again enjoy my huge vinyl collection. Very nice turntable for the money, by the way.

I agree that Yamaha took the cheap way out on many of their 80s receivers. All it takes is one repair attempt and this becomes painfully evident. But they still sound amazingly good in comparison to similarly priced used gear, and far better than many cheap new receivers.

I also agree than Yamaha couldve and shouldve picked a better location for the memory cap. Especially considering its so near the edge of two boards. Once again, I believe they assume nobody will bother to try and fix the thing. As for the memory cap., it would normally long outlast the warrantee...so what does Yamaha care about other owners problems down the line.

I dont know if its true, but Ive been told many electronics manufacturers stop stocking spare parts seven years after a products last year of manufacture. I wonder if this is true...

Wow!
How'd you get the shop manual? I've been wanting to get my hands on one for a long time -- they're scarce.

The issue that used to plague my late bench technician wasn't so much bad solder joints as hairline cracks in the traces. He was a wizard with them, and also with capacitors. There used to be a fair amount of wave-soldered boards that went bad during that period.

If you can't fix the radio, you can always use the receiver as an integrated amplifier.

What's gnawing at me is the location of that memory cap doesn't quite add up. I could be very wrong. I wonder if there's another one on the main board. These capacitors have other uses, too. If any readers are interested, there's a discussion about these caps on the old radio newsgroup (rec.antiques.radio+phono) within the last few days.

What Yamaha did was to probably copy Sony and others -- it's easy to make a great sounding product with junky construction, and even with junky parts. It's a slick trick that will produce reviews in Consumer Reports and hobbyist magazines: "Outperforms receivers that sell for twice the price." Now you know how.

This was a period during which Japanese engineers were told to design these products for the cheapest possible assembly costs -- if repairs were needed later, the consumer be damned. It worked well at the bottom line, so well that the concept was transplanted to automobiles (like my recent Ford). The junk that came in for repair was flabbergasting, especially an Akai receiver that needed repair annually, given a "Best Buy" rating by Consumer Reports (a publication that I often like, by the way).

I attended a corporate repair school a long time ago. The instructor said something about a law that required OEMs to stock parts for seven years. I'm certain that this is no longer true because I know of many companies that do not repair their own products (NEC monitors). Within the warranty period, they just replace the unit. After the warranty, you're SOL. Windmere (reborn as "Aplica" and the kitchen line of Black and Decker) closed their HQ repair shop and laid off their national service manager. I'm pretty sure that now, there are electronics companies that don't stock parts. Watch Panasonic. As far as I know, there are no replacement batteries for my $100 Panasonic shaver. I had bought three nice-sounding Panasonic walk-things which were great apart from a quiet whine into the audio. I figured that my technician friend could modify them, so I wrote to Panasonic and asked how I could get a schematic. Their answer: "We have no service literature for this product because it is unrepairable."

And there you have it!

Richard

You know, this is a great forum with some very useful threads. But it needs improvement. One real problem is that once a post is made, it cant be changed. Its here for good in its entirety.

This thread is a good example of why we need the ability to edit our posts. When necessary, Id like to go back and make corrections or deletions. But this is impossible. As youve pointed out, I may be wrong about the memory capacitor. As already mentioned, Im NOT an expert. But after searching high and low for information on Yamahas memory retention problem, without success, I decided to take matters into my own hands. Now that youve brought it to our attention Ill take a look at the other discussion.

Regarding my most recent R-8 acquisition, its now toast. I didnt let any of the magic smoke out, but I broke something because its dead, and its not the fuse. It wouldve been a great integrated amp (as you mentioned). Oh well. Im probably not good enough to troubleshoot it, even with the schematic, but Ill sure give it a good try.

Its funny you mentioned Panasonic---because my experience matches your. Their customer service is horrible. But theyre not nearly as bad as Philips service! Try getting a Philips product repaired, even under warrantee. Its often impossible. Too bad, because some of their products are good performers.

Getting back to Yamaha...the reason Im fiddling around with the R-5, R-8, and R-9 is threefold. First, theyre fairly abundant on eBay and pretty cheap. Second, theyre very accurate, albeit perhaps a bit cold and harsh in the upper frequencies, And third, I consider it a learning experience and if I fry something its not the end of the world.

Thoughts for calgny:
*** I left a private message for you on this board.

1. There are other uses for the same kinds of capacitors that are used for memory. The one on the output board may not be for memory.
2. Regarding your dead R-8, if you haven't done so already,
- Check across the windings of the power transformer to see if it's blown out.
- Check check to see if all expected voltages are coming out of the power transformer
- Check if any safety parts on the input side of the power transformer are blown.
- Lastly (and the most awful): check to see if any gee-gaw parts of the front panel display are shorted and loading down the power supply, preventing it from supplying power for the audio (this is a potential dreaded consquence of lit-up front panels).

Richard

great info; I have same problem, plus another - intermittent, snap/crackle/pop sounds, regardless of input source. Any suggestions for Northern Virginia repair facility that isn't ridiculously expensive?

I don't live in your neck of the woods, so I can't help with any local repair shops--which by the way would most likely charge more than you'd want to spend. And may not have much experience repairing older receivers.

It could be a bad solder joint. I've had the same type of problem and on at least one occasion was able to fix it by re-soldering the speaker solder joints. Try jiggling the speaker wires and listening for a change. Also compare the headphone output to the speakers.

I have a R9 that I was succesfull in repairing the random tuner problems. I replaced chip LC7210. I found a very good posting that helped me a lot. I will link it below. It is posting number 11.

After I had the tuner working OK, I thought I was home free. I now am experiencing the memory issue that is talked about. I may attempt this repair sometime but I have trouble finding parts as everyone does.

cgalny, the posting and pictures are great and I say Thanks!

Great information and great link, ford88_2002. Very informative. Though some of the details in post #11 are a bit above my head.

One of these days I'll get around to unbuttoning my R-9 and searching for the capacitor/battery. According to Yamaha, the capacitor is readily available (see one of my previous posts above).

Thanks for joining the discussion.

great advice have same problem with r9 also have a problem with reciever not picking stations at times any help with this problem

thanks
bob

I ordered the memory capacitor that cgalny mentions above. It was still $12 as he says. I hope it is the fix, I will keep you posted. I have A Yamaha R9 that I am trying to save from the junk bin.

The problem with the tuner not picking up stations on the correct frequency will probably be with the LC7210 IC. I replaced mine and it corrected all problems with the tuner. It is a 28 pin IC circuit with very small solder connections on the board, cost me about $15 to get it.

ford88_2002:

Did you get the LC7210 IC from Yamaha?

Please let us know if/when you find and replace the R-9's memory capacitor. The R-9 is a great sounding receiver and well worth saving.

I posted a message on a google chat page and got a response from someone who said he could supply a LC7210. I called him and he sent it to me. You probably could find the chips somewhere else but this is what I did. I can send his contact details if anyone needs it.

I replaced the memory capacitor in my Yamaha R-9 today and it works great. I want to say thanks for the pictures and all the help. It is located in the same place as the R-8 you mention above. Let me warn you, the replacement part from Yamaha is physically different than the original although the values are the same. The pins are much wider than the original. It is made by Elna 0510 .047fd 5.5 volt. It took some creative bending to get the pins to fit but they finally went. Be careful also, this is a electrolytic capacitor. You must observe polarity when installing the new part.

I think I will put the top back on my receiver now while I am still ahead. Anyway I have my old Yamaha CD-3 CD player that needs work.

Thanks for letting us know about the R-9 memory cap. Knowing it's in the same spot as the R-8's is a big help.

Yes, I also noticed that the replacement cap. is physically a bit different from the original, but I found it fairly easy to spread the leads apart. It's possible Yamaha is selling more than one cap. for this purpose. So perhaps yours was a bit larger than the one they sent me.

Thanks for the update ford88_2002.

I still haven't had time to take apart my R-9, but when I get around to it I'll post some pictures of the memory capacitor replacement.

The part you ordered is a super cap. It's super because it can store a lot of charge with respect to its size. You mentioned that it arrived dead. There is nothing wrong with a cap that arrives with no voltage across it. In fact it is a good thing. You could get a big shock from a charged cap. Always discharge the big ones with a resistor to ground when playing with your gear.

Interesting thread people. I also have an R5 and have loved it for many years. Loved it more when I tried to find a replacement. Technology these days has made receivers so counter-intuitive.

Here's my problem. I'm looking for the switch that taggloes betweens the devices hooked to the receiver. Mine is worn to the point I have to wiggle it to get a good connection. Where can I order a new one and try to replace it myself.

Thanks in advance for your responses.

I found the service manual

Try Panasonic supercap EEC-S0HD473H, Digikey.com P10786-ND $1.58. Other mounting types and ratings also available.
Thanks RedRum for link to R-5 service manual.
Know where to download R-8 or R-9 schematics?

sorry did someone familiar with teac avg3020 receiver? I have the memory problem too hope someone can help me on this i have try to search for so many web forum. Hope some one could help. Thank in advance.

hello all,

I have a Yamaha R3 receiver with the same receiver memory problem ( I have to retune it every time I power up).

Has any one worked on an R3?

There is a lot of traffic over on audiokarma.org forums, if you don't get answers here. I would look for a service manual and /or schematic for the unit and figure out where the cap is and what its rating is. I have not heard of a specific capacitor for memory use. A capacitor is a capacitor, so anything with the correct values will work. Unless the memory caps are low leakage so they stay charged longer, etc.