I can't help you specifically, but I really wonder how they expect you to do that yourself? Is it no longer under warranty?

Shortly after (less than 2 weeks) getting my Kenmore induction stove it started throwing fault codes (can't remember the number).

The service technician had never seen the induction model before, spent a long time on the phone and then decided they will replace all the boards in the stove! I said no way -- talked to my salesman, got a replacement stove and have never had a problem since.!

Suggest you repost this in appliance forum including the model number and do a search for that number in the search block near the bottom of the thread list page.

These instructions are obviously meant as starting hints for a qualified technician you might call in for repair work. Miele cooktops usually have special fasteners requiring special tools to gain access to the interior.

The first economical first step would be to find someone with enough smarts to check the power is completely off from the double circuit breaker involved. Then gain access to the junction box where the cooktop wires meet the house wires and check they are all firmly connected.

I have the same FE 30 problem on my KM5733 Induction cooktop whenever it's circuit breaker/isolation switch (in my house's fuse box) has been turned off and then on again. I have turned in back on after waiting a day or longer (figuring it needed to reset itself?) and the results have been hit and miss and I have had no idea why it would work sometimes and not others. Needless to say, I've trolled the net looking for answers and Miele online support is useless (unless you're ok with shelling out loads of cash to have a technician come by) and I still haven't heard back from them after lodging an enquiry.

What I have discovered from this and other forums is that these units do not like being attached to a power source which has a voltage significantly above the amount stipulated in its specifications (for my unit it's 230 Volts). After reading this I used a voltage meter to measure the voltage in one of the power outlets in my house (I have a really cheap meter I'd bought a while ago at an electronics retailer). Sure enough it was above 260 Volts which is totally beyond the range it's supposed to be for where I'm living.

The thing is, I know the unit works just fine provided it has been turned on and it doesn't get the initial FE 30 error (it's almost like you have to get past an initial voltage check and then once it's going everything is ok). If the voltage is at an "acceptable" (whatever that may be) level when it's turned on, it will turn on and then stay on even if the voltage goes up afterwards (which it obviously has done during the time from when it was last switched on until recently).

How did I get it to work this time? well I thought of ways to reduce the voltage to the unit and came across all sorts of stuff on the net including powerbox voltage reducers, optimisers, blah, blah... I thought this is total rubbish and I'm going to ring the power company and complain about the voltage being so high when it's not supposed to be. I then thought back to my old high school physics days and remembered that there's a relationship between voltage, current and resistance. I then thought the voltage to the induction cooktop (as well as to all the other power outlets/circuits in the house) is likely to drop if I plug in and turned on a lot of high resistance electrical appliances.

Sure enough, when I turned on the kettle, toaster, clothes dryer, computers, televisions, electric oil heaters, lights and dishwasher, the voltage in the power outlet I'd been measuring went down from 260 to 235 volts.

I then turned on the power to the induction top back on and it turned on and with no FE 30 error!

I boiled some water to make sure everything was working ok (it was) and then I turned off the induction top and all of the other devices I'd switched on.

Still no FE 30 error! Great.

I double checked the unit by turning it back on and boiling water again and it did it with no problems. I then turned the unit off and measured the voltage in the power outlet again and sure enough it was back at 260 Volts. Hurray!

I'm now going to ring the power company and make a complaint...

Kudos to you. Thank you.