Walking on grass occasionally isn't going to damage it. What rips turf up is the twisting and scraping motions. On a penalty kick, that would be the foot you plant next to the ball. if you put a small mat down, you would eliminate most of that. The goalie is the one who will damage the turf the most. Pushing off of one foot quickly as well as diving and sliding across the grass is going to damage those areas. I'm not sure there is much you can do about that besides rotate the areas you use. If you don't play in the same spot all the time, that gives the lawn more time to recover before you damage it again.

On the contrary- many here are really interested in use of compost heap (I've used it as a very makeshift hot frame in the spring). Your setup, at least as described, may run into a couple of basic issues- first- wrapping it up like that will limit oxygen. No oxygen- no heat. If you are trying to extract heat and send it someplace, then you may try perforated pvc pipes through the bottom of the container, al the way through the compost bed, out the top to provide aeration. The bin should be raised a little to allow air in the bottom holes. Second- to get maximum heat, and to get it to last- you want a good volume of compost (at least 1 cubic meter per pile) in each pile. This is generally based on the surface area to volume ratio of the pile: a larger pile has a smaller surface area for cooling relative to the volume producing the heat. Also- heat at the center of the pile is higher because of the contribution of the heat in the bulk (more bulk- more heat delivered to the thermophiles in the middle). Larger bins, or putting them touching together will help here. Smaller bins will not only produce less peak temperature, but they will stay warm for less time as the compostables are consumed. Your reflective blanket should help this, also. The blanket should go on the inside of the bin, or at least face inwards wrapped around the bin. The outside should be painted a dark color to allow for absorbtion of stray IR from outside; we normally say that the heat is from microbes rather than the sun, but since you are literally using the pile to do work (in the physics sense), you will maximize heat production this way.

Depending on what the finish was before the paint you might be able to break the bond using a steam cleaner. First I would check the finish on the unpainted portions of the door to determine if it's varnish (solvent for that is mineral spirits or turps) or shellac (solvent for that is alcohol). If the wood-colored parts are covered with varnish I think you'll have an easier time breaking the bond. Shellac might be harmed by the steam. And maybe you'll get lucky and have varnish topped with latex paint. That's the easiest pairing to crack. However, depending on how old your house is the wood grain "takes your breath away" may be faux graining, not the actual wood pattern. In my c. 1840 NY house much of my woodwork had this treatment, and has since been painted. I can see where it was done, perhaps as practice, on the back sides of doors. Grain painting present special challenges as the graining may have been done with one medium, then topped by another to protect, maybe not. In historic restoration projects I have read of successful cleaning and restoration of faux grain painting, but I imagine it's very fussy work. And just as aside to anyone playing around with alcohol solvents. I recently acquired several liters of grain alcohol to use in cleaning books and have experimented with it on shellac-finished furniture and been amazed at how easy it is to work with compared to denatured alcohol. I think it is higher proof, so perhaps a more ready solvent. It's not cheap, and hard to find - and may be illegal in some states, but it's worth looking into. I live in NY, and can't buy it here, so I go to Vermont and special-order it at State Liquor Stores. You have to fill out several forms and sign an affadavit that it's not for human consumption (only for scientific, educational or research purposes). I just stated I was using it for cleaning books and antiques and the form came back approved along with my order of the stuff. The clerk in the liquor store said they had had to remove if from sale because college kids were using it to create something called Jello-shots, which sound vile. I don't think that's quite what the intended educational use is, though! Molly~

In 1969, in a tiny bathroom that lacked a sink, located in the hall outside our tiny apartment. I was recently married and a teacher when I learned of a book that was written as a hoax, each chapter by a different writer. "Naked Came the Stranger" was written in the attempt to prove that any book could sell, no matter how badly written, if it included enough trite sex. I took the book to the bathroom to read the first chapter while I was otherwise occupied, and after that chapter I never deemed the book worthy of escaping the bathroom. Here is the Wiki description of the book and its authors: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naked_Came_the_Stranger I'm amused that the title came to me as soon as I read this thread's question. The book did sell well even before the hoax was revealed.