Oh my! I hate to say this but your lawn guy is better at negotiating and getting out of work than he is at lawn care. Anyone who is unwilling to learn the simple (and I emphasize SIMPLE) elements and methods to his chosen profession should not be coddled. He needs to be cut loose. And if you think he does not understand you now, he will really not understand you when you try to fire him. You need to find someone who can fire him in Spanish so that he understands to never mow your lawn or touch your water again and he will never again be paid by you. Usted no puede trabajar aqu ¿entiende, señor? And he should be nodding his head. When he asks you why, the only answer that will work is to tell him you are going to do all the work yourself (Voy a hacer todo el trabajo yo mismo). If you don't tell him that he will beg and plead and promise to do exactly what you want, but you have already seen that he does not keep his word (about the seeding for example). But if you tell him you are going to do it, he should understand you want to save the money. By letting him go you have bought yourself some time to learn to do it yourself (it is embarrassingly easy) or find someone more in tune with you and your ability to communicate. Here is the combined wisdom of the lawn forum accumulated over the years. There are lots of other things to discuss, but hardly anyone disagrees with these simple principles. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. Not only does this apply in Phoenix, it happens that I learned it from a Phoenix based lawn professional on this very forum many years ago. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Now to contradict myself, I would suggest mowing the rye short toward the end of March. Your bermuda needs all the sunlight it can get and tall ryegrass will provide too much shade. Next year see if you can get through the winter without ryegrass. Just because the neighbors do it does not make it right. Believe it or not in Iowa many people burn their grass every year - doesn't make it right. Your lawn guy broke several rules. He mowed too short at one time taking more than 1/3 of the grass down. If your bermuda was tall, it should have been brought down gradually with multiple mowings during the week. He should know how to do that but apparently not. He waters WAAAAAAAAY to frequently. That water schedule is okay for getting new seeds to sprout but as soon as they establish roots, watering needs to be cut back. And I'm going to say that seeding rye over bermuda in the winter is a rule he broke. Sure everyone does it, but it's not good for the bermuda. Oh and weed-b-gone spray is the classic way to get rid of the weeds you have and not hurt the grass. Round-Up must advertise on all the sports channels or something. I hate that stuff.

It was just ordered, so no pics yet, but here is one from the Aristokraft website. Full disclosure: I'm a KD who sells Aristokraft for ProSource, but any local company that handles the same product can help you. I'd encourage you to explore local custom cabinet makers as well. From Aristokraft From Houzz [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Indianapolis Kitchen And Bath Great Kitchens & Baths

Re: the holes in clothing created by......? I've never seen such a collection of weird & wonderfully inventive stories! My new theory is that people are being paid to create these bizarre theories to protect the greedy stores who've created the problem. That's quite a fairytale the "bug guy" told you about carpet beetles. And to add insult to injury he CHARGED you for the story (you paid for fumigation)!? Wow - he must of laughed all the way to bank!!! Those would be pretty highly organized beetles - chewing holes only in cheap clothing purchased off of sale racks (mainly) from Walmart & SuperStore (in Canada) in my case!!! And in the same places (stomach area for women's clothing & usually the back waist area for men's). Maybe we should employ these beetles to do brain surgery also? And NO - I don't wear a belt. And NO I don't have granite counters. And NO it doesn't happen to any of my EXPENSIVE CLOTHING - EVER! And NO to every other crazy theory out there about washers/dryers/seatbelts and even miniature MARTIANS nibbling of belly skin cells that cling to inside of sale T-shirts once and for all!!! Hasn't anyone figured out how stupid all of these excuses are yet? It's simple: the stores want to get rid of the clothing: 1) price it dirt cheap 2) roll the sale rack into the back room and spray the items with a strong solution of an acid that is ONLY activated by washing, so after the first 6 to 12 washings the holes start to develop 3) make sure the area sprayed is in full view when worn so the garment can't be worn for long (no holes under arms, on sleeves, back necklines ever - but I'm sure there will now that it's been mentioned) This way they SQUEEZE the last nickel from the garment and make YOU HAVE to BUY more SOONER rather than later. If they didn't do this then they'd probably send the left overs off to a buyer of cheap, cheap clothing and receive even less $. Come on people - the world is run by the almighty dollar.

Yes, this is what we get with a San Francisco house! We love the character and history, of our 1930s built home, but it comes with its own challenges. Thank you for the ideas - we have toyed around with everything you suggested, but, the TV can't be moved :) The only place that we can get cable/internet access in this room is in the spot, and even that was a challenge to get accomplished! So, we're stuck with the location that its in. I'm less concerned about toying with the layout at this point (it actually works for us), and more interested in figure out what seating I would supplement the couch with. To answer your question, I wouldn't put 4 chairs in the room.. I would either have 3 total chairs (DWR chair or its replacement + 2 along the easel wall) or 1 chair (DWR or its replacement) and a loveseat. We do need to replace the random chair next to the easel though.. that's what kicked off this entire thing!