Hi -- Thanks! For the eyes - I just poked a big socket and then made the eyeballs and placed them in - then added the lids upper and lower. I think the white speck of highlight makes them look more real. I haven't sealed the head yet in anyway - but might just do the eyes to give it the "wet" look. As for clothes - I think I'll make him a puppet like I said and use material - I'm not the best sewer but if I plan it first, I should be able to make something. I'll need to make myself a pattern. No, I don't think I've seen Katherine Dewey's site. I'll go google it. I'm no mail at PCP too. I get tired of the pasta machine questions! LOL Lia - The face you made is wonderful too! I don't think I could do it like that. I think we all have our way of seeing things spacially (sp) and we sculpt from that view. I love your face. She is just beautiful. MryRose -- He's all clay except, there is a foil and wire armature underneath. His head is not solid clay inside. You should just dive in and try sculpting. You'll redo a few times, then it will come to you. Look at your own face to understand the different structures. Its fun. -- Michele

Like you, I dislike using dp needles. Too slow and awkward for me. I found a pattern for fingerless gloves using dp needles and I adapted it to two needles. It's very easy and fast. Only a couple of hours to make a pair. I hope it works for you. I have a picture, but I don't know how to post it. Here's the pattern anyway. FINGERLESS GLOVES KNITTED ON TWO NEEDLES Materials: 1 sk. Sport weight yarn of your choice 1 pr. US #7 needles Tapestry needle Stitch Markers 1. Cast on 30 stitches. 2. Knit in K2, P2 ribbing for 8 rows. 3. Knit in St St for 20 rows. 4. K 14 st, place marker. Inc in each of next 2 st, place marker. (there should be 4 st between markers). Knit 14 st to end of row. 5. Purl next row. 6. K 14 st. Slip marker. K 1, inc in each of next 2 st, K 1, slip marker (6 st between markers). K 14 to end of row. 7. Purl next row. 8. K 14 st, slip marker, K 2 sts, inc in each of next 2 st, K 2, sl marker (8 st between markers). K 14 to end of row. 9. Purl next row. K 14 st, slip marker, K 3 sts, inc. in each of next 2 st, K 3 (10 st between markers, sl marker. K 14 to end of row. Purl next row. K 14 st, remove marker, bind off all 10 st between markers remove marker, K 14 st. You should have a total of 28 st. on needle. Purl next row, making sure to pull the 2 stitches on either side of the bound off stitches together. Just treat it like a regular purl row. This creates a "pooch" in the work that will accommodate the thumb when complete. Knit in K2, P2 ribbing for 8 rows. Bind off in K2, P2 ribbing. Leave an 18" piece of yarn hanging. Thread tapestry needle with the 18" piece of yarn you left hanging and sew up the side seam, which is opposite the thumb opening. Repeat for second glove. If you'd like the picture, please email me and I'll send you a pic by return email.

The top-down raglan sweater is indeed an option. Here are some links to free patterns: http://glampyreknits.tripod.com/glampyrephotos/id44.html http://spincraftpatterns.com/index.php?cPath=53&osCsid=ab368498db8e82d8b97ca99595f7b102 http://individual.utoronto.ca/cosmicpluto/2005/02/pattern-time.html If you find you like the top-down option, check out the Knitting Pure and Simple patterns as well: http://www.knittingpureandsimple.com Spincraft sells some as well (link above) The infamous "Sitcom Chic"sweater from Knitty is also done on circulars, I believe, but is from the bottom up: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring03/PATTsitcomchic.html Alot of the Lopi patterns are done entirely on circulars and double-points. Do a websearch for "lopi patterns" and you'll find many sources. Your lys should carry them as well. Good luck!

I think people are too wedded to written patterns....for me, part of the fun of easy things like scarves, is to experiment with different stitches, to see what you like...what pleases your eye. Scarves, to my mind, are great ways to 'preview' different stitches and as they are small projects, you're not 'out' much if you don't like them....(and, you can always start over). I have only used, I think, one actual scarf pattern....instead, I have a book of hundreds of different knitting stitches, which is a good thing to have in the repertoire of any knitter. I simply look through the book, pick something I like, and 'have at it'....you can also do bands of patterns instead of just one, to give you an even better idea of what different stitches will look like...your scarf becomes sort of a stitch sampler. Just be sure to use, at the sides and both ends, a couple rows of certain stitches that will make sure your scarf will lie flat...for instance, start your scarf with 3 rows of knitting (that is, no pearl rows..rows 1 through 3, knit), which will produce a garter stitch edging that won't roll....then, start each row and end each row with a few knit stitches for the same reason. There are other stitches that will do the same thing, but this is probably the easiest. Knowing how much to buy, when traveling (and with no project in mind) is hard. If you aren't knitting sweaters or larger projects, then I wouldn't buy a great deal....when you start with sweaters, you'll get the general idea of how many you used for past projects, and this will give you an idea of how much to buy. It's a good idea, once you really get started knitting, to keep, in your purse, a list of amounts.....how much bulky, how much sport weight, etc, you used in past projects and will likely use again..but, that's down the pike for you...do keep it in mine, though. I, personally, never buy less than 3 skeins when I'm thinking of small projects.