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nadastimer

Getting cat urine smell out of carpet...

nadastimer
21 years ago

What's the best way? Or what's the best thing to make our living room smell good again? We rent from my father. When we moved in here the place had a smell because the previous tenant lived here 7 years and had 2 dogs and a cat that were in the house all the time and she also smoked. The carpet really needed replacing then and that was 2 years ago. My father wants to replace it but doesn't have the fiances now. I believe the previous tenants cat peed on the carpet and then ours started, too also. Over the past two years we've caught the cats going numerous times. We've tried lots of stuff and I was wondering if anyone here had experiences with this and what you did.

~Leslie~

Comments (109)

  • JediCat
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I need help.

    I've used Natures Miracle in the past quite successfully. Just soak and lather, wait til it dries, and the smell is gone.

    I found a new cat spot on the wall/carpet, so I cleaned that area, and also while I was at it I re-cleaned a spot nearby that I had already fairly successfully cleaned with Nature's Miracle last year.

    Within a day, the entire area around both spots started to smell like Feces. I've never encountered this before.

    I've kept the cats out of the area, it's not something they did. Somehow the entire carpet within a 3 foot radius around the relatively small spot I treated how not attained a very strong cat-poop like odor.

    What could be causing this? Like I said, one area I had already cleaned before with natures miracle and this never happened. The spot was only about 4 x 10 inches along the wall. How could the smell of cat urine get replaced with the smell of cat feces over a 9 square foot area after this new application?

    I'm assuming it's some kind of either off-gassing or bacteria that's fill up the carpet area with this smell. The urine remover I assume should kill bacteria, but that worries me if suddenly due to the wetness the carpet started breeding bacteria after I cleaned it?

    It does seem to follow air currents. parts of the carpert that were blocked by other furniture or things don't have any smell. It is only the carpet that would follow the natural flow of air out from the area that seems to have attained this smell, which means me think it's some kind of off-gassing from the original area. But the depth and amplitude of the smell is amazing for that.

    My thoughts are either to try another round of enzyme cleaner (possibly a different brand, having read that natures miracle actually changed formulas a few years ago, which could explain the difference in performance).

    Or to try a hydrogen peroxide round.

    Or maybe I just have to wait longer until the miracle is completely dried out which could take a week? I did read somewhere that the odor can persist until it is completely dry, which can take a while due to poor air circulation under the carpet.

    Or trying some kind of baking soda and vacuming, or something.

    Any ideas on what happened and how to fix it? Honestly the smell of cat urine was fairly contained and weak. But the entire lower level of the house now wreaks like mad of feces-smell caused by whatever happened when I applied nature's miracle. It's unbreathable anywhere in this level.

  • mIchae1
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Surely there has to be a product that can soak down to the base of the carpet and disinfect the odour...

  • bleggs
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I often read online forums like this one when I need help with something, but I NEVER post to them until now. The vinegar/baking soda/peroxide formula works. We got new carpet in the bedrooms almost four years ago, when our son was still an infant. As soon as the cat started sharpening her claws on it and swiping at the baby, we had her de-clawed. Then she started peeing on the carpet in his room only. Mostly in front of the closet and under his crib. The stench was awful and I ended up buying a carpet shampooer to get everything out. But she was sneaky about it, and sometimes I wouldn't notice what she had done until I stepped In a wet spot. Needless to say, I have spent loads of money trying to get the stink out. There was always a faint urine smell in his room. My son developed asthma by the time he was a year. He got allergy tested at 4 years old and we found out he has a very strong allergy to cats, which is a major contributor to asthma. He will start allergy shots in a couple of months. Once we found out about the allergy, we found a new, loving home for the cat. Even after her being gone for several months, a friend of mine mentioned the smell. That was it. I was determined. I read this forum and considered new carpet, but it's not that old, is in otherwise good condition, and I didn't want to through the expense and hassle of new carpet. So I poured a gallon of solution comprised of half vinegar and half hot water on a spot just outside his closet door. I pretty much flooded that part of the floor, and was so nervous. Then I scrubbed the crap out of it with baking soda and peroxide. I let it sit, then vacuumed up the excess liquid with the shampooer. I didn't go out far enough the first time, because I still smelled it and located the guilty remaining area (that damn cat). So I did the same thing to a neighboring spot, and I immediately noticed the urine smell was replaced by a clean, slightly antiseptic smell. Thank god!

    The cleaning process was quick. But I did this during the humid and rainy springtime, and it took close to two weeks to dry completely. I waited to post this to see if the smell would return, but it's gone.

    I will be using this cleaning formula all over my house. I have used the vinegar spray cleaner to cleanse my kitchen and bathroom areas (http://www.heloise.com/hints.html), so I already knew of some of those benefits, but this cinched everything for me. It's powerful, Eco-friendly, and safe to use near my children. Don't bother with cleaners that offer empty promises, and definitely try this before replacing your carpet. Use a shampooer or wet-dry vac to get up the excess liquid.

  • dixie1933
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just moved, and the previous tenant had cats and also smoked the; odors were throughout the house. The landlord compensated me for repainting all the interior walls, I added the Air-ReNu paint additive that a friend recommended and thankfully, the house stays smelling clean and fresh. One application works continuously and will last for 10-12 years.

  • andrelaplume2
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Well, I had a cat pee thru a mat in my basement...it soaked into a spot on the concrete floor. I threw the mat away and tried the vinegar/baking soda/peroxide mix...3 times over 3 days. It failed to work. Next I tried full strength simple green. The smell was not noticeable till I got on my knees then POOF...it almost knocked me over. Finally I carefully poured some full strength bleach. I did this two or 3 times. Last I smelled the odor was gone but I wont be convinced until it gets humid down there. Oh yea...tried natures miracle too...no dice!

  • mdln
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Nice comprehensive explanation.
    from http://catcentric.org/care-and-health/removing-cat-urine/

    ''Cat urine is composed of:
    ⢠Urea
    ⢠Urobilin/Urobilinogin
    ⢠Uric Acid
    ⢠Sodium
    ⢠Other electrolytes
    ⢠Creatinine
    ⢠Pheromones
    ⢠Bacteria typically 5 different strains.

    When cat urine dries, the urea is broken down by the bacteria. This is what makes it smell like ammonia. As it decomposes further, it releases thiols that make the odor worse. (It is the thiols in skunk spray that make it SO potent and difficult to remove).

    The urea and urobilin/urobilinogin are not hard to clean. Urea, urobilin/urobilinogin, creatinine and the pheromones are water soluble (urobilin is the pigment that causes the color). Traditional household or carpet cleaners will deal with these, and this is why hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, and/or baking soda also appear (initially) to be effective at eliminating the problem. But the problem has not been solved! Uric acid and its salts have been left behind. Uric acid is not water soluble and bonds tightly to whatever surface it touches.

    Due to the uric acid component of cat urine, cat pee has a half-life of six years.

    This is why it is absolutely essential to use a cleaner that can break down the uric acid. Soap, vinegar, baking soda, ammonia, chlorine, and hydrogen peroxide (to name the most common cleaners) simply are not chemically capable of breaking down the uric acid in cat pee. These cleaners and deodorizers only temporarily make the smell go away and appear to work because they do clean up the other components of the cat urine. But when exposed to humidity, the uric acid salts cause the uric acid crystals to reform. This process releases the smell again; not always at levels detectable to the human nose, but the catsâ more sensitive noses can smell it. And the scent of their urine outside of the litter box encourages many cats to continue urinating outside of the box, often with their families left scratching their heads wondering why.

    The only thing that will break down the uric acid to permanently remove the smell is an enzyme cleaner. The enzymes break down uric acid into carbon dioxide and ammonia, both gasses that then easily evaporate. This is why it is also essential to allow the enzyme cleaner to air dry. It needs the ânaturalâ drying time to break down the uric acid salts, allowing the resulting gases to evaporate.

    Not all enzyme cleaners are equally effective. Good enzyme cleaners are typically a bit more expensive. Cheap ones will work, but need to be reapplied over and over (and probably end up costing as much as the more expensive enzyme cleaners). Enzyme cleaners this author is aware of that work well and reliably include Nok Out, Urine Off, and Anti-Icky Poo.

    Of course any cleaner needs to be used properly. Most enzyme cleaners come in a spray bottle. This is deceptive, because just spraying a light layer of enzyme cleaner over a urine stain will not result in complete cleaning of that spot. Cat pee wicks, and unless the enzyme cleaner completely envelopes all of the cat pee, even it wonât work. âSprayingâ doesnât work. Dousing, pouring, and soaking are required when cleaning up cat urine.

    To properly use an enzyme cleaner on a fresh stain:
    1. Blot up as much of the urine as you can before applying anything.
    2. Soak the affected area with the enzyme cleaner.
    3. Let the enzyme cleaner sit for 10 to 15 minutes.
    4. Blot up as much of the enzyme cleaner as possible.
    5. Leave the enzyme cleaner to air dry.

    Covering the area loosely with something is always a good idea. This will not only help prevent the cat from attempting to pee on the same spot while the enzyme cleaner does its work; it will stop family members from stepping or sitting on the wet spot. Some people lay aluminum foil down over the area; other recommendations include an upside down laundry basket or an aluminum baking sheet.

    The same basic procedures apply for an old stain. But be aware that an old stain may require two or three full cycles of enzyme cleaner application (allowing it to completely dry between applications) in order to completely clean the stain.''

    The article goes on to explain how to remove odors from furniture & bedding.

  • lucillle
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Tear out the carpet.
    Tear out the pad.
    Check out the situation, you may have to tear out the subfloor.
    Clean. Seal. Do not buy new wall to wall carpet, buy hard flooring that is waterproof on top, and get small area rugs of the rational priced variety, not a $20,000 hand knotted silk.

    Just because you love your cats and dogs does not make you or them immune from blips in their psyches or their illness/infections creating the urge to pee, now or in the future, and especially when they are senior. Set them, and your house, up for success.

  • andrelaplume2
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    interesting...I currently have the cats banished to the 3 season room where the one continues to pee. (and yes he's been to the vet, had food altered, different litter, 2 boxes etc etc. Bottom line..he's an ass!

    I have had no ro real luck with the cleaners. I am not saying they won't work in certain situations but if there was a simple guaranteed method...a product or products would be available and well known. You would not have to seek them out. I just don't think the answer is that simple with cat urine.

    Yes the total rip out will work...but how many times must one do that.

    Sure a sick cat can have an accident...or old age can contribute...but then there are also those cats who are just...well...&@!holes and like to spray. I have yet to find a solution to deal with these beasties!

  • Acadiafun
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Check with your vet. Years ago I got an odor neutralizer from my vet and it was amazing. When I cleaned the carpet I dumped a whole bottle in the water used to clean the carpet. Sorry I don't know the name of it but the carpets came out fresh and clean and it cleaned the urine and feces odor (we had an old paralyzed dog).

  • Teehee1984
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have two cats who both pee on the rugs. They're healthy and they do it....because they can. Because they like to. That is all I can figure. I have tried everything.

    Recently, instead of trying to fight Mother Nature, I am just trying to work with it. I've set up rugs in a bathroom ( they get the whole bathroom) and I try to get them to pee on those throw rugs. Then I take a trip to the laundromat to wash them. They still stray onto other rugs, but this way " most" of it is contained.

    If I were smarter I would try to develop/invent/patent something for problem cats who like to pee on rugs. Build something that would attract them to pee on that area. My next move is to put a rug in a contained cat box ( looks like furniture on the outside -- ordered it from amazon) and have a washable rug on the inside.

    I'd get rid of the cats ( or put them down) but my daughter, an only child, adores them. They're beautiful ragdolls but......I don't know if their brains have been breeded out of them...or if they ate lead when they were younger..... . One is snuggled next to me as I type, purring, happy as can be. Meanwhile I just put puppy pads under my front wool rug so her urine doesn't soak into the floor.

    It is awful. No sugar coating it..

  • RocksAndRoses
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You can bleach and seal a concrete subfloor also. I lived in a townhome with cheap carpeting over an unsealed subfloor. It was terrible. I had mold problems and asthma. I was using a nebulizer four times daily and the highest dose of Advair and still couldn't breathe downstairs with the windows closed. I ran two hepa air cleaners upstairs and kept the windows open nearly all the time.

    Since I moved over a year ago (moved twice, long story) I have been able to stop taking my asthma medicine. If your home is making you sick, try to fix the problem or move any way you can. You will be happier and healthier in the long run.

    My cat died earlier this summer. I miss her, but not dealing with the litter box. Luckily, she was very good with her box. I don't have garbage service here, so if I got another cat I would have to consider burnable or biodegradable litter. The previous tenants had a cat. They dumped the litter outside. It was hidden under leaves. What a nice surprise - not.

    I am happy with my dog. He is sniffing round one room. I don't smell anything, thank goodness, but I think I will try ODO bam in that room for good measure. I already shampooed the new carpets to get rid of the new carpet smell. I won't complain, beats the smell you are dealing with.

  • Molly2502
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    When my husband bought an older home it had pet urine everywhere. Our cat was also marking which she has never done in our 2 previous homes but there was a wild cat marking our house on the outside. We tried everything and one day by accident I happened upon a Product called SCOE10X by a Company called BioFOG, Inc. their Contach Information is Phone 678-648-4015 or www.SCOE10X.com. I am not trying to sell nor do I work for the Company. I am a housewife and an animal lover and got tired of hearing my husband scream, yell, complain which was stressing me out with my chronic health issues. We also tried the stuff that the Cat Daddy is Linked to (he does not sell it) and that did not work either. We used it on our Oriental Rug and it was not as soft as it was before but it did not even make the dye run together & did not take out all the stains but did take out all the urine smells. The Company also has a trial offer and if it does not do what it says it will do they will refund your money, no questions asked. We have already ordered refills. I wished we had this product 17 years ago when we got our Cat for the constant vomiting she did and for the Dog vomit as well. Amazing Product for odor control, did not take out the very old stains.

  • can1jane
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    For all of you cat owners out there whose cats don't use the box -- you have got to get Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract litter. It has changed our life. We inherited my mother-in-law's cat and love her dearly but in cleaning out Mom's house realized the cat had been peeing everywhere, and she did it in our house, too. I was crazed trying to clean carpets and get the smell out -- tried all the things mentioned, in addition to Febreze, which does seem to help. I don't work for the litter company, so this is a totally unsolicited endorsement. It works like magic, immediately. I promise. Expensive -- $15 a bag, but so worth it.

  • cpsmith
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Three weeks and counting! The smell is completely gone from the carpeted bedroom. Cat pee was nearly 6 months old. I pulled up the carpet and wiped down the plastic coated stainmaster pad that is below the carpet with a vinegar/water solution. Then I applied a bottle of BoosterZ Simple Solution Stain and Odor Remover that I bought at Walmart to the backside of the carpet. I left it in the carpet and never removed it! It has worked totally! 100% satisfied at three weeks! I hope you try it! And no, I don't work for any company, so I am not trying to sell this product. I hope you are successful too!

  • fcivish
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I hear people going around and around on this, but I believe most homes with this problem can be improved, and most carpet can be saved, without needing replacement.

    We are a family of pet lovers. Depending on how many of our adult kids are living in our house, we have up to 7 small lap dogs and 2 cats at a time. No matter how hard people try to take care of their pets, accidents happen, and if someone goes on vacation for a week, the change in the care schedule ensures that some pets are going to leave major odor problems behind.

    So here is a solution that I have found, that works for us:

    Step One. Get an easy to use carpet cleaning machine. Bissel and others make 'upright' machines that look like upright vacuum cleaners. You can get them at Walmart and other places, but you will need to get SOME type of carpet cleaner machine and be ready to use it. Machines that are easier to us, and don't require a major project to get set up, are preferred.

    Step Two. Pre-treat any stained areas with a very dilute soap and water solution. Don't use much soap at all, since it is a stain magnet once it dries. I also don't generally use soap in my carpet machines, but you can use a good commercial carpet soap if you insist. DO make sure to dilute it out by at least double what the instructions say. Once you pretreat with this, let it sit for an hour or so, then go on to Step three, below.

    Step Three. Mix vinegar in a proportion of about 1 to 4 with water, and spray the carpet with this, until the carpet is fairly well moistened, or use it in the carpet cleaner machine. Let it sit for an hour or so, then suck it back up with your carpet cleaner machine. We live in a dry climate, so this helps. In more humid areas, you will probably need to buy some large fans to use on the floor to help it dry. A major part of pet odor is ammonia from urea/uric acid, and the vinegar helps neutralize this.

    Step Four. After your carpet is dry, generally on another day, sprinkle it fairly liberally with baking soda. Let the baking soda sit for a day or so, then vacuum it up as much as possible, After you vacuum it up, put water or water with a very dilute vinegar solution or use an extremely dilute chlorox solution. Be careful, since chlorox can bleach clothes and carpet, so you probably want to pretest it on a small, hidden area, and make sure it is very dilute. Use one of these, or water, in your carpet machine and go over the carpet with this, to help remove the baking soda. Let it dry.

    Step Five. Get an enzymatic cleaner, such as Nature's Miracle or one of the others. Spray this on the floor, or use it in your carpet machine, but don't suck it right back up. Moisten the floor fairly well, again, and let it sit for two hours. Then, using your carpet machine to suck it back up and let the floor dry, with fans to help move air and help it dry.

    As you can see, cleaning the odor from a carpet takes several treatments over multiple days. Commercial carpet cleaning services probably can't do this job well enough, because they don't use enough steps or time. This is why a machine that is easy to use is important. The upright carpet cleaning machines aren't much harder to use than a good vacuuming. If one treatment, as above, isn't enough, then repeat the whole cycle again.

  • selphydeg
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow, this is a really old thread.

    I purchased a townhouse three years ago. The living room is all tile, but the staircase is covered in dirty carpet. I had carpet cleaner cleaned the stairs and it looked great temporary, but then the same stains came back because whatever that was in the padding stained the carpet again. Fast forward 2 years, my cat started to urinate on the stairs, it coincided with my bathroom remodel, perhaps it was marking its territory because contractors were going in and out of the house? I had professional came to clean again. He used lots of neutralizer and made it look good for a short period of time, but the old stain came back, and the cat continue to pee on the floor since the smell is still here.

    As many people suggested, to truly remedy the problem you have to rip off the carpet and padding, clean the floor underneath. I had a floor installer came out to look at the stairs and gave me an estimate. I was shocked at the lack of professionalism. The guy simply left without saying a word, instead he emailed me and said he can not work on urine stained carpet and I should call Service Master to have it cleaned first. That seems like a ridiculous demand to have the carpet cleaned so he can rip it out and put it in the dumpster. Is there some kind of health department law that I am unaware of? Is this normal behavior? He must only work for rich people who have money to burn and want to replace perfectly good floor because of color and style.

  • selphydeg
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow, this is a really old thread.

    I purchased a townhouse three years ago. The living room is all tile, but the staircase is covered in dirty carpet. I had carpet cleaner cleaned the stairs and it looked great temporary, but then the same stains came back because whatever that was in the padding stained the carpet again. Fast forward 2 years, my cat started to urinate on the stairs, it coincided with my bathroom remodel, perhaps it was marking its territory because contractors were going in and out of the house? I had professional came to clean again. He used lots of neutralizer and made it look good for a short period of time, but the old stain came back, and the cat continue to pee on the floor since the smell is still here.

    As many people suggested, to truly remedy the problem you have to rip off the carpet and padding, clean the floor underneath. I had a floor installer came out to look at the stairs and gave me an estimate. I was shocked at the lack of professionalism. The guy simply left without saying a word, instead he emailed me and said he can not work on urine stained carpet and I should call Service Master to have it cleaned first. That seems like a ridiculous demand to have the carpet cleaned so he can rip it out and put it in the dumpster. Is there some kind of health department law that I am unaware of? Is this normal behavior? He must only work for rich people who have money to burn and want to replace perfectly good floor because of color and style.

  • crmitchell
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Getting cat urine out of carpet can be quite involved. I have spent 43 years in the technical functions of carpet manufacturing and this has been a topic of discussion forever.

    Important issues are how much, how deep and what is underneath. A few "accidents" can be dealt with using readily available commercial products. Before beginning, locate the affected areas by darkening the room and using a UV (black) light. Urine will glow (fluoresce) a light green color. You will be surprised at all the other "stuff" that shows up under the UV.

    Situations where urine is deposited in the same place repeatedly are much more involved. When the pad is involved, it is often cheaper to simply remove and replace it (pad is not nearly as expensive as carpet). The underlying floor is a challenge. Failure to deal with the urine soaked wood or concrete will result in a room that will forever have a background odor even after carpet and pad are replaced. Since there are a lot of posts dealing with successful remediation of urine in the carpet, I will deal with the floor underneath.

    Commercial carpet cleaners may used enzyme-based products that "digest" the stinky material; unfortunately, these don't have much long-term effect.

    One product I have used with success is hydrogen peroxide - you can use the 3% drug store stuff, but you will need to pour it on until the fizzing stops, which could be days. It is an oxidizer, like chlorine bleach, but it doesn't smell bad, will not damage carpet, and there is no residue that must be removed - hydrogen peroxide breaks down into oxygen and water.

    Stronger peroxide solutions are available that must be purchased from a commercial chemical company; 30% is most common. It requires careful handling, safety precautions and some understanding of chemistry, but it works, and it works very well.

    One situation where the concrete slab emitted odor so strong it caused eyes to water, showed no odor whatsoever 2 hours after applying 30% peroxide diluted with half water and sprayed onto the concrete until the fizzing ceased.

    Rubber gloves, eye protection and a mask are essential. If you are apprehensive in the least with this, hire a carpet cleaner to do the job. He can obtain the peroxide in the necessary strength. He is also unlikely to have used this technique, as they receive most of their training from distributors who sell them supplies. Peroxide is cheap, much less expensive than the other concoctions, so it is not pushed in the marketplace.

    If all else fails, give this a try.


  • ophelia7
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    gosh, such a long threads T___T all I want to know is there any method except Natural Miracle = .=

    I'm trying baking soda now. hope it help.

  • YYYasmin
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Baking soda only works if the cats urine is fresh - soak up as much urine as possible with paper towels, then put lots of baking powder on the area and rub it in, it will soak up more urine and neutralise the smell.

    For old cat urine I have effectively use EM (stands for Effective Micro-organism) - it is a mix of beneficial bacteria that will eat their way through the oils and urine chemicals. My retal house had cat's urine all through the carpets and wooden floor underneath. After trying everything else, this is what worked. I needed several applications.
    Every country has their own specific combination of EM. I live in New Zealand and get mine through looking up EMNZ. It is also used in Bokashi composting buckets, composting toilets and on pigfarms to keep the smell down.

    Good luck

  • edendale64
    9 years ago

    We're from NZ too and we had to deal with this problem for ages, then after some research (as we didn't want to put our cat down) we found this site that teaches you how to use natural remedies and techniques to stop your cat from peeing in your house, if you want to find this site visit here http://cat-spraying-no-more-review.blogspot.co.nz/

  • beckysimpson1
    8 years ago

    This is an old thread, but Urine Off is a great product for treating the subfloor, or cement slab before you install carpet. Buy it at flooring stores.

  • Cindy Neumann
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    16 0z Hydrogen Peroxide

    1 Teaspoon dishwashing liquid

    1 Tablespoon Baking Soda

    Mix together and soak area, leave on till completely dry if a white residue appears it can be vacuumed or brushed away. You can soak the area, then sprinkle the baking soda on as well. Wait for it to dry completely. This actually works!

  • tdotson817
    8 years ago

    We've had our female 11 lb terror for almost 4 years, rescued as an abandoned newborn by my daughter ...and inherited by us. Although she has a lot of (personality) issues, peeing outside of the litter box was not one of them. The vet gave us another cat about 4 months ago... large male Maine Coon, very sweet boy. Now Princess Psycho has started peeing on the corner of the livingroom rug. Fortunately, we have tile floors so no sub-floor issues. I have tried Nature's Miracle and similar and the baking soda, peroxide, dish soap spray and the odor is still pungent. I will try the vinegar and hope for the best. I'm considering just replacing the rug but not sure if this will stop her new habit. My concern is that she'll just ruin the new rug too. I don't want to get rid of the male because of her attitude issues and there's no way that my husband would ever part with She-Devil. Quite a conundrum... Once you replaced the rug/carpet, did that stop your cat from peeing in that spot?!!

  • beckysimpson1
    8 years ago

    tdotson817, I had a sweet female cat who never peed outside the box until we got two male kittens who became sprayers and really challenged her for household territory and our attentions. She started peeing on horizontal surfaces -- the couch, the beds. Females mark territory by peeing on horizontal surfaces. It was horrible. We slept in our bed for years with a plastic cover over it. The male cats were only allowed in the house while we supervised them. And the female cat was locked in our bedroom. But the pee war continued. We slept in our bed every night under a plastic sheet -- for years. When our sweet female cat passed away it was like being released from prison.


  • pamdoggie
    8 years ago

    My veterinarian suggested Nokout, it is non-toxic. I've used it, it works but it is expensive to buy and ship. I haven't found it anywhere except online, here is the link: http://www.nokout.com/Odor-Eliminator/


  • Bobbi Miller
    8 years ago

    I'm moving into a house and the people tha ty lived there before must have let there cats pee on the carpet..it smells horrific!! I'm replacing the carpet but my question is I have a cat and I'm wondering if the wood under neath would still smell like urine and would my cat start peeing?? If so any recommendations

  • beckysimpson1
    8 years ago

    Bobbi Miller, If you're worried about your cat reacting to previous sprayings, you might try Feliway spray (Feliway.com) It's a cat pheromone spray and plug in diffuser that's supposed to make cats feel more relaxed. It's the pheromone that is in their cheek pads that they deposit when they rub on stuff, which is a friendly message marking that they do. It didn't make my cat stop marking, because she was feeling territorial towards my two new cats, who usurped her position. But it might work for you because there are no other cats present -- just their markings.

    And you should also treat the wood underneath, before you lay carpet. My flooring guy recommended Urine Off, which you buy at flooring stores, and you spray it on the wood, and cover it with plastic sheeting for several hours. The 30% peroxide listed above sounds like a good one too. You can also put a sealer, or a plastic or polypropylene sheet under the carpet.

  • Cindy Neumann
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I would paint the flooring underneath with Kilz Sealer/Primer. It will stop and seal the odor, and it works wonders!

  • c t
    8 years ago

    ^^^ This is what worked for me^^^ Two coats of oil-based primer will probably do the job. Nature's miracle didn't do the job, SC10X (whatever it is) was a little better. If the cat can smell urine, instinct will tell her that's the place to relieve herself.

  • beckysimpson1
    8 years ago

    And buy the oil-based primer before the air quality people get rid of all the oil based paint.

  • dsilgreen
    8 years ago

    Hi folks! I must add this to the cat urine odor section..I tried everything, all the recipes and ways to take cat urine odor out of carpet! I came across a product called 'Simple Solution' odor destroyer, Platinum, and it REALLY WORKS! There are a couple types but the one I use is silver spray can with red label and has silhouette of dog and cat on it. It is the BEST thing I ever used and easy application, no heavy scent or masking , just pure and simple spray and wait, blot and allow to dry, then vacuum later. After all the aggravation of the past in all products I could possibley find, this one is the easiest, less expensive, and best I've personally ever used! Believe me, it took too long to find one that actually works for me! I hope someone else finds this helpful and doesn't have to try endless things before finding this info! Best wishes pet lovers :)

  • Joanne Coniam
    8 years ago

    So I want to go with the soaking the area in enzyme and letting it dry treatment (thanks mdln), but I had already started the peroxide/dishsoap/baking soda idea. How can I be sure the peroxide/dishsoap/baking soda mixture has dissipated enough not to cause a chemical reaction with the enzyme? I don't want to waste this expensive stuff (I bought an industrial enzyme cleaner (Canadian Odor Control Liquid Enzyme Cleaner).

  • ihavethebestpretendhouseonpinterest
    7 years ago

    THIS WORKS. I installed new carpet, went on vacation. While away, a stray cat sprayed my front door. My old cat sprayed 10 spots! Big ones. It was dry when we got home, and the sitter did not see it. Awful smell. Despite all the negative comments stating you have to remove installed, padded carpet, not true,even dried urine. This cost me $50,far less than the $2k my carpet cost. It has worked for me . I purchased a kit called "Stink Free" from Amazon, it has a black light to detect the spots, and a bottle of bio-enzyme product that breaks down the crystals and neutralizes the odor. #1. If you find a dry spot, use this product first. Just follow directions, money back guarantee I THINK. #2. Spray area with a product called "Rocco & Roxie Professional Strength Stain and odor Eliminator", also available on Amazon. This is also bio-enzymatic. IT IS CERTIFIED by Carpet and Rug Institute (it did lighten my beige carpet slightly, but only I seem to notice it, so spot test). Follow directions. After this regime, I can not smell the urine at all. For solid, dried poo, on area rugs without padding, I pick it up, put an entire box of baking soda one it for a day and then vacuum and follow with Folex, the best carpet cleaner ever. Good luck. If you find wet urine, Ipour water on it, soak up with big towel, and start this regimine- it is awful, but my old cat has given me so many good years and he has an accident once every few months. Most importantly make sure your pet is not sick, and sometimes if spraying is a chronic problem, a cat pheromone that mimics the smell of a mother cat works to calm your cat.

  • linywiny
    7 years ago

    WOW...so many awful cat stories. So many poor cats getting thrown out because people do not understand cat behaviour. Anyway back to the cleaning/ deodorizing of cat pee the last person/comment actually got it right. "Stinkers" odor remover works and well "Mother Natures Miracle" does not,neither does any of the crazy things a lot people are doing or using. Any product you use that has any trace amounts of ammonia which only adds to the ammonia already in the pee adding to the lasting odor and the cat repeatedly peeing or spraying. Any commercial grade supply store should have a chemical solution that you will need to dilute accordingly to break up,neutralize and remove the urine smell. Stinkers is available online but only from a few places & it is well worth the price it costs. It is used to treat urine,vomit,blood,dead body fluids,skunk spray and more. Forensic clean-up teams use these type products. There are other similar products available besides "Stinkers" at commercial janitorial supply places just call your local supply centers and ask,it will have different names depending what chemical comp. made them and part of the country you are in. Any urine smells whether it is fresh or dried or even cleaned several times is mother natures way of helping animals communicate. Cat pee is one of the strongest along with rodents. Many cats do not handle any changes/stress well thus marking their space. If they are sick,breeding,worried,know feral cats are in the area(your cat is telling them this is their territory),any changes to environment,too small of litter box,enclosed litter box,not enclosed litter box,too dirty of litter box, certain types of litter,it can be many different things. Even if you or any family member is sad,stressed,or have changes in family living. Anyway you get the message.Then If you feel the absolute need to dump your cat at a shelter or out of its home PLEASE first give it shots and have them spayed or neutered ! There are millions of homeless cats in shelters being euthanized daily and millions more that live on the streets as strays and millions more that are born or become feral and these numbers are growing daily. This is not the cats fault it is ours as human(e) beings to take responsibility and help with this issue.OK Enuf of the soapbox. Hope this helps some of you and keeps you loving your pets instead of being upset with them for costing you tons of money on new carpets,flooring,doors.baseboards, and what ever else they are marking as theirs. :)

  • linywiny
    7 years ago

    Some of these people should never have pets!

  • Cindy Neumann
    7 years ago

    The dish soap, peroxide and baking soda took the smell right out. Easy, and cheap. No need for expensive chemicals.

  • linywiny
    7 years ago

    Peroxide is a bleaching agent and cannot be used on all surfaces safely. I use this combination of chemicals you stated for cleaning bathroom,tub,shower and more. Also dish soap contains ammonia and any trace amount of ammonia in cleaning product used on cat urine adds to the ammonia already present in cat urine it does not fully remove or neutralize it. Only covers/masks it and cats will pee on the same area again. They can smell it even if you cannot. Also it would not be feasible to use on some of the homes that it has seeped through carpet&padding then into wood or cement base or outside all over the siding or stucco or brick. I have worked with cats and people for over 35 years,hoarding situations,rentals,and home owners that have gotten way in over their head &with the clean up involved in these situations. It can seem incredibly overwhelming and frightening when home owners have gotten to the point they think their home is ruined beyond repair.These products I have mentioned are no way near the amount it would cost to demo your home. Under $25.00 for a 32oz bottle of Stinkers. Under $200.00 for commercial size container that when diluted makes many many gallons.Great for rentals,apts or commercial property owners.Animals only act how we let them, like I said in my follow up comment many of the people who wrote in sound like they should not have pets.The animals are trying to tell you something when they are showing us behavior that we do not find acceptable,we are the ones in control,the ones that need to change or fix something that is wrong. This does not include hitting or loud verbal scolding, or making them fearful of us they do not understand that .They only want to please us.

  • Joanne Coniam
    7 years ago

    I finally removed the carpet, used 3 coats of Kilz (I think it was Kilz Max, very expensive $50 a gallon in Canada) and I am going to repaint. My cat only ever peed on rugs when she went outside her litter box, so I decided I don't really need rug on the stairs (I had already gotten rid of front door mats for this reason) and it is easier to detect and address problems without the rug. I had to fill any cracks in the wood before the smell was fully gone. Finally, when I pulled up the rug, I realized that the problem wasn't just toward the bottom of the stairs where I thought it was; the entire rug had stains. The smell from the previously stairs was OVERWHELMING once the rug was removed. I am thinking that maybe my cat wasn't the only one, that may previous owners had contributed to the problem. Some stains near the top of the stairs seemed very faded compared to where my cat had been observed peeing. I am very glad I removed the carpet, because if I hadn't I never would have realized the whole staircase needed treating. The overside of the rug was like a historic map of information. My cat did not regularly pee inappropriately, so it may take some time to determine if this works. The only other option at this point is rebuilding the staircase!

  • User
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    I wish I would have timed how long it took me to read every single one of these posts. My beloved cats are destroying my house. I'm single, working, commuting, and losing my mind trying to clean it and get them to stop. I think that a fair number of these posts are written by SHILLS, which I find despicable. People like me are going through hell. Not only is there a mess, it's a smelly, toxic mess, and it's caused by my children. Yes, they are my children, and I can't just get rid of them. I, too, want to chime in and say that Nature's Miracle does NOT work. I'm fine with ripping up the carpet and starting over, but even that is going to be so incredibly difficult and time consuming. After reading all of this, and not having very nice carpet, I've decided to rip up my carpet, but I wish all of you cat lovers the best of luck in trying to eradicate the stains if you do want to keep your carpet. There isn't much on this thread about preventative measures to stop cats from doing this in the first place, but I encourage everyone to visit some reputable sites to deal with that as well. I've listed some below. Please don't ever think your cat is angry or vindictive or something like that. Cats don't have those types of emotions. Educate yourself and respond appropriately, but be careful of opinions in forums. Look to the experts for advice. I so very much appreciate the time people took to offer solutions. Thank you.

    I also want to recommend a money saving litterbox filler that will encourage you to keep up with cleaning it, as well as keep the smell at bay. My cats' issues have to do with new cats in the home, age and illness - not the use of this litter. I use plain wood pellets (no scent!), bought at Menard's or Fleet Farm type places. They're sold as woodstove fuel, as well as pet bedding. Way more economical that commercial litter and, I think, abate the smell much better.

    http://www.naturalcatcareblog.com/2011/06/cat-going-outside-the-litter-box-super-smart-behaviorists-share-their-tips/

    http://catinfo.org/?link=litterbox

    http://www.littlebigcat.com/?s=litter+box

    One of the many posts on the brilliant Dr. Becker's site:
    http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/08/29/cat-litter-box-aversion.aspx

    http://www.naturalcatcareblog.com/2011/02/9-useful-sites-for-researching-cat-health-issues/

  • Joanne Coniam
    7 years ago

    I found a new product that seems to work: Skouts Honor ("Cat Urine and Odor Destroyer" version with the red badge, not the dog Odor Destroyer with the yellow badge or Cat Litter with the purple badge ones). You douse with spray, wait 5 minutes, wipe residue, repeat. It seems to be working on my tile floor...don't know about carpet or wood. The advantage over Canadian Odor Control Liquid Enzyme Cleaner, which I used successfully on my stairs (followed by Killz - see earlier posts), is that there is no strong chemical odour left behind. I had started to lose track of the difference between cat urine smell and the the enzyme cleaner smell; I now associate the two so strongly together. Anyway, Skouts Honor is not an enzyme cleaner, but it seems to work on my tile floor. Killz worked on my formerly carpeted, now painted stairs - it's been months now and no repeats. I think it helped not recarpeting (my cat prefers the carpet for peeing, so I now have none) and also the scratchy, no slip additive I used in the paint. Killz was great, though, so thanks to alan_s_thefirst. Finally, I gave in and put a litter box upstairs...in the sunroom (instead of just 4 in the basement. The only thing is once winter hits, I won't be leaving that door open. I am considering getting a cat door to the sunroom, but am worried about mice. Problem is solved, probably, because cats pee inappropriately when they have a problem. Sometimes my tenant causes the problem (be blocking entrances) and I can't control that.

  • andrelaplume2
    7 years ago

    I can believe many things will work on a non absorbent floor. But on carpets u r kidding yourself if you think others won't smell it. If there were truly a product that worked everyone would know about it! Kind if space aliens.,.if there were proof it would be big news!

  • andrelaplume2
    7 years ago

    Uh yea...ok...I get it...dont get a pet if u can't properly care for it.... but even so... stuff happens beyond the pets control...like illness.

    The issue here is getting the smell out. I know if no readily available product that works. Please advise the name and where purchase it and describe how it penetrates the carpet, pad and floor to remove the smell once set in. My experience had been the smell returns with humidity.

    My only solution...in the past...was removing the carpet..pad and kilzing the floor. Again.. please advise product and availability...

  • PRO
    Anglophilia
    7 years ago

    I dealt with this for 35 years with various cats. Nothing really worked. I loved my cats dearly, but when the last one died at age 17 about 13 years ago, I said no more pussy cars. I enjoy my neighbor's cat and my nearby grand cats. When one lives with cats, one learns where the term "pissed off" originated. A cat that is unhappy about anything may start peeing inappropriately. I tried drugs from the vet - everything. I talked to the cat behavior experts at Cornell Vet School. It is the number one reason why cats are surrendered to shelters. It's very hard to see ones house destroyed by this, no matter how much the cat is loved. And it's an awful way to live - no one can visit because the house smells to high heavens. Not all cats do this but it's impossible yo predict which ones might. So no more cats for me.

  • c t
    7 years ago

    Offering this as a possible help: I had a male cat with bad aim. (No surprises to anyone who live with males, I'm sure) Sometimes I'd find urine behind the litter box. I bought a pack of those cheap, flexible cutting boards one usually finds in the dollar store. I used a drill to drill pairs of holes through them (an inch or so from the bottom) and near the top edge (3/4 inch from the top) of the litter box, and attached them inside the litter box with cable ties to two sides of the box (the sides that were against the walls in the corner where the box lived.) One more pair of holes and a cable tie where the pieces overlapped kept them from being too floppy.

    I don't know why the cat *sometimes* didn't squat low enough to get the pee *in* the box. This solution was cheaper than a deluxe box and didn't give the cat claustrophobia.

  • linywiny
    7 years ago

    Great idea CT,sometimes the box just isn't big enuf for certain cats,not so much tall. Use a cement mixing tub from Lowes or Home Depot these are not tall but give the cat ample foot space so they can stand in it comfortably,if their face/head is not inside the outer edge of box they think they are not in it,so they back up as far as they can thus peeing or even pooping over the edge. They are under 20.00 dollars for even the huge size if you have multiple cats using one box,really easy to scoop since sides are rounded and easy to clean with soap and water when needed. Some people want something for their cat(s)that is covered,out-a-sight,taking up a small floor space,in the corner,hidden,off in some secluded area,freezing cold or overly hot garage. They want the cat but not the litter box around them or anyone that comes to house.Yet us as people are wanting some nice huge,beautiful,well lit,comfortable,easy accessible bathroom to use.One bathroom downstairs,one upstairs or even one for every bedroom in the house.So many people say their cats go outside box or in house where they do not want them to go to spite them....????that is so ridiculous because animals do not know "spite", spite is a human reaction to get back at someone who has done something to them that they are not comfortable with or do not agree with.They are peeing &/or pooping where we do not want them too for a reason,and alot of people do not understand why or cannot figure it out and therefore cannot fix/change the reason. Cats are a very complex animal and many animal behaviour clinics/people have not even figured them out.

  • andrelaplume2
    7 years ago

    Well...our cats must have been aiming from the opposite side of the room from where the box was located... seriously..some cats are just 'bad'....that was the conclusion of the vet who found nothing wrong....

  • linywiny
    7 years ago

    andrelaplume I think your cats were definitely sending you a message. Pets and kids learn from the adults(?) in their lives how to react to others and the situations they are in.

  • andrelaplume2
    7 years ago

    Yes perhaps...I have been known to use the John from the opposite end if the room! Seriously...I had cats when a kid and now. Some r problems some not. Our one cat has a non medical issue according to the vet...its an ass. Blame me if u want... bottom line...what is the name of the chemical to remove the urine smell and where can it purchased and how does it penetrate rug, pad and subfloor to remove smell...

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