Christy, The topic was discussed at length a few times in this forum. I gave you a link to one of them here. It's good read. Here is a link that might be useful: Multiple trees in one hole

Teresa, I really think it would be a little hard to keep a robust tomato plant happy in an Earth Box in our climate. I just don't think they are quite large enough and the watering reservoir probably would have to be refilled almost daily. I also am not a fan of any system, in general, that wicks moisture upward into the soil (or soilless mix) because it generally keeps roots too wet--they like to dry out a little every now and then. Roots that stay continuously wet are more prone to disease and other problems. There is a gentleman named Raybo who posts often on the Tomato forum here at Garden Web who makes his own version of the Earth Box, and he is not the only one. Kathy already linked one set of instructions, and you could google and find many more. What is nice about using Raybo's threads as a source, though, is that he is actually growing tomatoes in his containers and he reports frequently on improvements to the system, how his tomatoes are growing, the varieties that do well for him in his Earthtainers, how much his tomato plants produce, photos of how-to-make-them plus photos of them in use, etc. So, I've linked just one of Raybo's threads below. If you want to read more, you can go to the Tomato forum and type the words Raybo Earthtainer into the search box at the bottom of the page, and it will bring up all the previous threads in which he discusses his Earthtainers. There's about 40 old threads there. As far as the old bales of straw: could you tell if the plants had been planted directly into the straw or if the straw had sort of been hollowed out and filled with a good-quality soilless mix? In some parts of the country that stay significantly cooler than ours in the summer, growing in hay bales can work pretty well. I would think it would be hard, though, to keep them moist enough here. I suspect that anyone growing in hay bales is either letting the roots creep down into the soil beneath the bales, is adding potting mix and a granular fertilizer to the bale, or is feeding weekly with a water-soluable plant fertilizer. Hay bales alone, especially if they are fresh and haven't started to decompose yet, most likely could not give the plants the nutrition they need. And, if bermuda grass plagues your gardening area, the hay bales can turn into a mess. If the hay bales have enough water/nutrition to grow tomato plants, then any nearby bermuda grass will creep into the bales and grow into them too. I know this from experience because I use a lot of hay bales in my garden, and any bale set on top of bermuda grass becomes infested with bermuda grass. Hay bales are a whole can of worms in and of themselves. In general, I only buy (or accept as a gift--more about that later) bales of hay from people I know or from a reputable supplier. Here's why: In the early 2000s compost made from hay/straw that had been sprayed by a particular broadleaf weed killer got into the compost distribution system, including compost made by cities from collected yard waste and then either sold/given to residents of those cities. That weed killer had a very long half-life in the compost and damaged/killed people's gardens. The garden plots were unusable for several years. Once it was determined just which broadleaf weedkiller was the problem, I was (and continue to be) very careful to ask people if they have sprayed their hay with that particular chemical and steer clear of their hay if they have. A very similar thing happened in Great Britain last year, leading to that broadleaf weedkiller being voluntarily removed from the market while the regulatory agencies studied the issue and tried to determine how to proceed. What about all the gardeners whose gardens were ruined though? Also, if you use "old" straw or hay that has begun to decompose, that can present issues in terms of fungal disease. I use a lot of old straw and hay, but I am careful to watch for developing disease issues and move aggressively to combat them the moment they first appear. Living in a rural area, I have lots of friends, neighbors and acquaintances who often have old, leftover hay that's no longer fit to feed their cattle or horses. Sometimes they give it to me. I've been given as much as 30 to 40 squares bales at one time and one guy gave me 4 huge round bales my second summer here. I am always careful about using these, but they do make great mulch and, as they decompose, they feed the soil. Once again, though, I make sure they haven't been sprayed with a broadleaf weedkiller OR I make sure they are at least 3 years old, because in 3 years time, the broadleaf weedkiller residue should have dissipated. Hay can contain seeds of weeds (broadleaf and grassy) so I always put a layer of newspaper or cardboard between the soil and the hay/straw to help prevent the seeds from sprouting. (And, sometimes they sprout anyway and give me weeds I didn't need.) If you put down a layer of hay/straw, you can lessen the number of seeds that sprout by scattering an organic pre-emergent agent on top of the hay/straw. Ruth Stout used bales of straw laid on top of the ground both as mulch and to enrich her soil for decades. She was a very successful gardener and she had beautiful soil, but she laid the mulch on thick--at least 12" I think, and then pulled back the mulch and planted into the soil or the lower levels of straw that had partially decomposed. The very depth of her mulch kept a lot of weeds from sprouting, and if they sprouted, she piled more mulch on top of them to smother them. That would work with some of the weeds we have here, but it wouldn't work with bermuda grass. I hope this info helps. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Info on Raybo's Earthtainers

I googled and found that since it focuses on whole foods, weight loss may occur as a result of giving up processed foods, grains, dairy and sweets, however that is not the primary intent. I also learned that my neighbor broke a cardinal rule: You are not allowed to step on the scale or take any body measurements for the duration of the program. http://whole30.com/whole30-program-rules/

I have a friend who has tried every single weight loss scheme out there. Literally everything but bariatric surgery. She's done Medifast, Isagenix, dozens of different MLM weight loss schemes, Jenny Craig, Nutrisystem, Weight Watchers, Zumba classes-she'll drop about 20 lbs then gain it plus. I think she had her best weight loss with Medifast, but she quit that after a few months and gained it back. She's also Type II diabetic but won't do what she needs to do to lose the weight. She takes medication instead. I got notice from my health care team that my A1C was in the pre-diabetic range-that is super scary! So I started to change my diet-and so far I've lost almost 30 lbs. I just don't eat sweets, added sugar, extra carbs-and it's coming off. My last blood draw I was out of the pre-diabetes range! I'm going to keep at it-I need to lose more but I'm doing it the old fashioned way-healthy eating and exercise. My BFF ran into an old friend who'd lost 50lbs-she was on some crazy scheme diet where she could only eat a super restrictive diet. It was utterly unsustainable. Sure, she lost 50lbs, but had to be miserable! I'm working on my BFF to eat sanely (she's another Type II diabetic) but she keeps carbs & candy in her home...she's not a fan of veggies & fruit. I've got her at least bringing healthier snacks with her to work and eating a lunch during the day instead of starving herself then gorging when she got home. I wish there was an easy way to drop pounds-a pill or a drink-but nope. It's all about intake and output-fewer calories in-more calories out (burned) and you will lose weight.