How about adding something about the importance of sending the size bubble envelope requested, not smaller and if possible not larger. The bubble envelope size that is requested is for a reason. The seeds fit in that envelope size and for the postage requested and usually will go for first class large envelope rate. I know that when I send the info for a BEAP I have used my digital postal scale, weighed the bubble envelope, the weight of the seeds, added to pieces of 8 1/2 by 11 inch paper to the scale and have everything all totaled to go for the first class weight. The reason I've added to pieces of paper to the weighing is one sheet covers the weight of the paper requested with the list of seeds on it, and the other one covers the weight of packing tape and label. When someone sends a smaller envelope than requested, the seeds can't fit for the amount of postage sent and the same thing can happen if a larger envelope is sent. Just in the huge BEAP post I made a few weeks ago, I've gotten quite a few bubblies that where either too small or too large and there wasn't enough postage to send all the seeds. Most times, a larger envelope will be OK, but not always. Another thing is the simple fact that it isn't necessary to send the bubble envelope inside another one to get the BEAP seeds. I've lost count with how many bubblies have come to inside a second envelope, even when I have given the following instruction.s "just address the bubble envelope to me, put everything inside that I requested, tape it closed and mail it to me. There is no need to but the bubble envelope inside another one to send it to me." OH, Just thought of another one. Figure out how to explain don't use the the tape seal on the bubble envelope to seal up the bubblie. Most times, they stick so well, that you can't get the envelope open and have to cut the bubblie to open it. If you just take it closed with package tape, it's much easier to open the bubble without cutting it to do so. I think it's scotch that is making bubble envelopes now with a shiny material now and if you seal that closed with their seal on it, there is no way on earth that you can get it open without cutting the bubble. Fran

I'm not sure this will work - because I don't have deer - but lots of other varmints. One new trick tho - might be of some use - We had - and enjoyed a bumper crop of apricots and almonds this year - by using mylar balloons. They dance and bob with the slightest breeze, and have successfully kept raccoons and fruit eating birds away from our fruit. They also discouraged rats from climbing our orange trees (we live on the edge of a wild life preserve canyon). Also helpful were old computer compact discs that were tied to the trees - and the shiny surfaces helped discourage birds. As I said, don't know if the balloons would be helpful for the deer, but they are very colorful in the trees, if nothing else. Bejay

Toro Model 51975 gas Trimmer 8inch 25 cc Straight Shaft 179.00 on sale today . I bought the Toro last fall great Commercial Grade Unit. Second choice new Echo ! P.S. A Shindiawa T235 would be a 3rd choice , which has the overall features of my Toro for about $250.00 ..All the Best Bro . This post was edited by ewalk on Tue, Sep 10, 13 at 0:16

I'm thinking with two more cool-season growth periods before next summer the lawn will probably spread into the bare spots. It will, so you don't need to worry about them. Just make sure weeds don't grow in there and you'll be fine. I always adjust my irrigation timer to account for prevailing conditions. This puts you ahead of 99% of lawn owners and is exactly perfect! I think I'm one notch below the highest level right now. If that's what pleases you, it's fine. Bluegrasses like to be around 3" tall, but the ones you used are tolerant of being far shorter than that. 90% of the battle was won when you chose good grasses. Regular topdressing sounds like a great idea to counter settling and moderate the ph. Shouldn't be a problem since the area is relatively small. Peat moss has a nice, low pH (call it 3.5 or so), but rots very slowly and doesn't generally overrun your soil's organic buffer. I topdressed last weekend on solid clay soil (my pH runs 6.8 from organics, but the normal pH in this area is in the 5.0 range). 7,000 square feet took me several days and 24 large bales of peat moss. 750 square feet should be simpler, and you should need about 3-5 bales, and perhaps three hours. On established lawn, you want around 1/4" to 1/2". Mine, a seed topdress, was 1/4". Peat also helps the soil hold some water, so that would help during the next dry season. Where do you find the time? I guess when it's a labor of love you make the time. That and it's a hobby, so the time spent here is what I would spend puttering around somewhere else anyway. It's far more enjoyable for me than most other activities!