They make a little tool that helps in removing caulk.It has a little hook on the end to help pull it out. Any paint store should have it. I'll guess that your builder used the wrong kind of caulk. It needs to be specifically made for use in the bathroom in wet areas AND it needs to sit for 24 to 48 hours before you get it wet.
Heating it can help. Use heat gun or a blow dryer. For indoors I prefer the blow dryer.
When you go to redo it. Cut the tip of your caulk at a angle and make it smallish this gives you better control when the caulk comes out. Remember if you click on the gun handle it should stop the flow of the caulk. Use a wet finger to gently push on the caulk and in a single continuous stroke move your finger across the caulk. Any holes just dab a bit of caulk on your finger and press it in and then run your finger across the caulk line again.
It takes some practice. Trick is not to be afraid of making a mistake with it. Worse comes to worse you wipe it all off with a wet disposable rag and do it again.
Some folks I know claim using a piece of plastic cut from a detergent bottle to spread a smooth caulk line is the way to go. I've never done it because I think my finger works just as well but it's something for you to try.

I just did that 2 nights ago in the kitchen. I used a heat gun and it was a breeze. I had the little tool for removing caulk but ended up using a screw driver for the most part.
My 50 yr old sink looks 10 years younger!

Thanks guys!

When I used caulk before I think I bought GE paintable, silicone caulk from Lowes (white/blue tube). Does the water keep it from sticking to your hands?? I had a heck of a mess the few times I had to use it. I'm talking all over my hands, the caulking gun, it was terrible and I couldn't get it off with soap and water.

Shee - timely thread for me. New kitchen countertops going in right now and of course the wall board behind the old splash (not being replaced) is a mess. They'll have to caulk only in spots until I get walls patched. Then I'll probably have to remove the caulk they put in so I can get a continuous bead. Could be a disaster because I am not very good at caulking. Lack of patience I think!

When I get home tonight I'll see what kind I used. It was water clean up.
My old sink had some pretty big gaps - probably needed leveling or something, but I was determined to do something to visually freshen up that countertop! I just dampened an old towel to clean up the edges. Not perfect, but much better!

I've been recaulking the inside of our windows, and have found that taping off the edge of the bead (on both sides) with painter's tape before you lay down the caulk makes a huge difference in the final look and cleanup. Just make sure and peel off that tape as soon as you're done smoothing to bead, or you'll pull off the caulk with the tape.

Much as I've tried, I've never mastered making a nice, straight, even bead, and then not smearing the whole thing into a mess when I smooth it out. Most people probably know to do this, but I just found that tidbit on the internet and thought "Well, duh!"

The painter's tape is a good tidbit franksmom!
Sheesharee, I used Harvey's white tub seal latex (siliconized acrylic latex it also says on the label). It's in a red, white and black squeeze tube. I probably got it a Home Depot.

deedee