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mountdgal

DIY Disaster/Faux Plank Ceiling

mountdgal
9 years ago

I was inspired by a number of tutorials out there for creating a faux plank ceiling using Plywood cut into 5" strips. My contractor installed the "planks" and they looked awesome unfinished. Then we primed, painted and caulked and ugh what a disaster! The look is horrible. The white paint doesn't "Pop" and I don't like all of the paint in the faux grooves. The grooves no longer look clean and defined like they did before we painted it. We primed with Kilz and painted a satin ultra pure white finish. The contractor thinks the problem is that I used a satin paint designed for drywall instead of an ultra pure white semi gloss designed for trim. So far we've done one coat of primer and one coat of paint. He suggested we do an additional coat using semigloss or gloss trim paint. Before anyone says it.. Yes we should've used actual tongue and groove and maybe next time we will. At this point, it is what it is and we have no idea what to do. Any suggestions? Thank you so much in advance!

Comments (23)

  • mountdgal
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Close up

  • User
    9 years ago

    The drywall wasn't flat and you have inconsistent spacing as a result. It all strt with the framing job. Then the drywall. Tongue and groove would have had the same problem.

  • User
    9 years ago

    I was going to say clean the grooves out the way Pal suggested. I think that's your best bet. I know this seems like a horrible disaster at the moment, but once it's fixed and everything back in the room, hopefully you'll like it..

  • mountdgal
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks guys. Do you think removing the paint in the cracks will help the look? Also, do you think using a semigloss or gloss pure white will help? Can I paint another coat and then exacto between the grooves?

    This post was edited by mountdgal on Sun, Nov 30, 14 at 22:41

  • mountdgal
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Also do you think using a brush instead of a roller will help?

  • 4boys2
    9 years ago

    Get the dried paint out now.
    Future paint you can get at before it dries.
    I think the gloss would show more imperfections .
    Probably easier to roll on and while its wet follow with a brush (to avoid paint drying in cracks).

    Did the contractor not off-set the planks ? I can't really tell by the photo.
    Like the ceiling here ??

    Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.thequaintcottage.net/

    This post was edited by forboystoo on Sun, Nov 30, 14 at 23:42

  • terezosa / terriks
    9 years ago

    Gloss paint shows more imperfections, so I don't think that would be the solution. Do you have an inspiration picture of what you are going for?

  • mountdgal
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Inspiration photo below. Yes seams are staggered. Maybe the problem is he didn't sand board edges first? By the way, the ceiling look just like the photo you guys attached prior to painting.

  • mountdgal
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    This is another:

  • mountdgal
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Another

  • 4boys2
    9 years ago

    Tater and Lettered both used v or tongue groove.
    Google plywood planked .
    Others have had your same problem.
    Pick a section and scrape out the paint.
    Do a couple of satin coats
    careful to follow with a small brush into the grooves to avoid "glopping" .
    Take a look at how it looks a decide if this is a project you want to complete or "cut-bait".
    For such a large area you may want to invest in a Dremel.

    This post was edited by forboystoo on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 10:22

  • mountdgal
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Hmmm thx. I thought tater used plywood. Okay well I can always caulk the seams and then repaint. Removing the paint won't help bc the grooves aren't straight.

  • Annie Deighnaugh
    9 years ago

    If you look at your inspiration shot, the seams are uneven too. I suppose you could always just wait a year and see how much spacing occurs naturally as the wood swells and shrinks with the change of seasons. But plywood, of course won't move as much as regular boards.

  • 4boys2
    9 years ago

    To me the purpose of the planks is to get that beadboard effect .
    I wouldn't caulk the seams just yet.
    Clean them-up then go from there.
    You may need to brush into the seams with paint.
    Here's the look I was thinking of for you :
    Check the site I attached~It's walls but you get the idea.
    Everything will work out.

    Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.prettyhandygirl.com/how-to-plank-walls-kitchen-renovation-progress/

  • PRO
    FlipGreat
    8 years ago

    Researching the same thing. How did it eventually turn out?

  • patty_cakes42
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I would have suggested using a spacer, just as if you were installing ceramic tile.

    Check out this site........


    http://www.thehouseofsmiths.com/2012/11/diy-wood-planked-walls-tutorial.html

  • just_terrilynn
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    My under roof patio ceiling was like you have described. But, we had to reattach ours in sections. I recaulked it all using mainly my fingertip allowing for a grove look and fine tuning with a damp paper towel. Just doing that was a huge improvement. Next I'm going to reprime and paint in a satin. The reason for my satin choice is that it's outdoors and easier to remove spiders/bugs/webs and such. If indoors I would use a satin or flat depending. I did the same technique and at sons house and it came out gorgeous. This is one of those things where there is more than one way to go about it.

  • Anne
    8 years ago

    IMO a planked ceiling is rustic. I would sandpaper the cracks and then add more paint and sandpaper again if needed. Maybe my style is much more casual.

  • Yayagal
    8 years ago

    I would do a semi gloss, it looks so much nicer.


  • patty_cakes42
    8 years ago

    I woukd use a small putty scraper to remove the paint. It has a thin blade and should be able to be wedged in easily between the boards, removing the unwanted paint. If it doesn't look bad and you're ok with a more rustic look, don't bother repainting.

  • xclusive
    8 years ago

    I'm with some of the previous posters, not a disaster by any means in my opinion. Part of renovation and DIY process, believe me something always comes up and it never goes as planned or takes as short of time as you thought(well at least not in my case anyways :) I personally would take some type of putty knife and remove the paint between the boards and see how you like that or you could caulk them. After you decide what you like(to match your inspiration pic I would think you should caulk them) I would do some type of semi gloss (SW pro-classic is my go to paint for trim).

    Can we see finished pics and how it turned out?

  • Peter Klym
    3 years ago

    Plywood should have been painted and then cut. Would have kept the clean lines you were looking for.