Can you remove the actual hooks, drill a couple holes, mount, then add the hooks back? Otherwise, I'd say drill your holes and then fill them with wood filler in as close a color match as possible.

I think Annie's solution will work best. We just hung Ikea cabinets.

If you are not good at leveling or installing something so bulky, maybe you want to consider a handyman.

i think i would bite the bullet and drill some holes through the wood and screw directly into studs... some coats are really heavy so coat hooks carry an awful lot of weight... and then either repair the holes, use wood plugs or use 'decorative' screws that match the piece.

Another vote for the hangman (Metal french cleat) system that Annie linked to. I am currently using this hardware for a medicine cabinet and a hall coat rack. Solid as can be.

I vote for drilling ..

While lifting the coats off the hooks you run the possibility of the rack being lifted off the cleat....

Can you tell how it was hung before? I vote for the French cleat. I just bought the one Annie linked and hung my tv on it. Very strong.

I've used the Hangman cleats for art -- they don't budge.

Maybe the weight of the coatrack itself negates the frequent pulling up of coats? I'd guess even if the coatrack is fully loaded, there wouldn't be enough give that people grabbing their coats would loosen the cleat's interlock.

(And I will have to remember that it can be used for a TV -- amazing!)

That is a gorgeous piece! Please post pictures when you get it hung!

I don't think I'd use it for a 50" tv pammyfay, but my 27" is only 15 pounds and I wanted it mounted a certain way that the regular tv mounts couldn't do. Plus, it was a LOT cheaper.

I like oldbats idea of trying to remove existing hooks and drilling there and replacing.

I would remove the hooks, drill behind into a stud, attach to wall, and then replace the hooks. Best way to get a no-show mount on the wall and at least you know its secure, and won't stick out further than necessary, as a cleat in the back would add some depth. I would want it flush.

Thanks for the suggestions!

marti8a, it was never hung. There are no holes. I am guessing it was originally part of a hall tree, probably built-in, because I can tell where the verticals for one were once attached. Presumably the rest was too damaged to harvest. The back was literally bristling with nails. I sawed those off first, as I didnâÂÂt want to damage the front by hammered them out back to front.

There are a lot of dings but I am filling and staining them now.

I had not thought about it being completely flush, but the hook method I thought of plus the other methods suggested would not be. IâÂÂd rather not have it move at all. I like the idea of removing 2 of the hooks and drilling the mounting holes behind them. I will have to see if this is feasible with my stud locations.

This post was edited by linnea56 on Thu, Nov 21, 13 at 21:20

Definitely the French Cleat, either the metal ones or a full-width wooden one.

All the hardware is in the back and they are incredibly sturdy.

I'm not sure how removing the hooks and bolting underneath would work as, don't you need to get to the back side of the board to put the hooks back on? And if you try to mount with the hooks in place, you can't get to the bolt to tighten it...

Or am I missing something?

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NM...I see the hooks screw on from the front...

This post was edited by AnnieDeighnaugh on Fri, Nov 22, 13 at 12:42