I would check for traverse rods. They do have the decorative rods that are very pretty. The link goes to just one of their styles

Here is a link that might be useful:

I agree that traverse rods are designed to open and close on a regular basis. And those will not damage the curtains.

Otherwise you can look into the ceiling mounted drapery hardware like they use in hotel rooms where they are meant to be pulled across back and forth each day. But there, where you grab the drape, it will likely get worn in time. That's why at hotels they install the very heavy duty grommets and rod arrangement for pulling them shut.

Out of curiosity, I don't see any lamps on your end tables...do you not need light at night by the bed?

I do have the decorative traverse rods in my LR & DR so that is an option, maybe the best one and I know they can be purchased in standard sizes now. If I go that route I could probably keep to the 84" height and the existing traverse rod for the sheers (maybe even the sheers). Should I then get the panels made-to-measure to span the width? Where are some good sources for made-to-measure panels?

However, I was under the impression though that grommet panels were meant for easy opening and closing, is that not the case?

In thinking about why my WTs failed, I think it was also because the rod has to be mounted 6" out from the wall to account for the under treatment and wasn't as sturdy as I needed. So, getting the right rod I feel is my first step.

I was looking at some of the wooden rods and was wondering if those would work? Can a 4' rod be screwed into a 6' rod? Then get the 6" return brackets?

I was looking at the specs for some from Curtain Rods.com.

Annie: I don't have bedside lamps as there are some spot lights in the ceiling that work well for reading. I've debated on/off adding the lamps for decor, but haven't done it yet.

Here is a link that might be useful: Curtain Rods

Have you looked at Rejuvenation? They cut rods to your required width which would eliminate snag.

For draperies that you are going to open and close every day the best solution really is a traverse rod.
There are decorative traverse rods where you can still have the look of a wood dowel with rings, and yes they are pricier than a std wood dowel with rings. The advantage is they work well and are designed so that the supports for length don't interfere with function.
Std rods with rings require you to pull on your fabric or a wand. Daily use is going to put undue stress on the fabric and the finish on the rods and rings is going to get beat up in short order.

jersey_girl1: Thanks for the recommendation of Rejuvination. I'll take a look at the website.

mlweaving_Marji: What you describe is what happened before and I don't want to make the same mistake. Now I just need to find the best place to get a decorative traverse rod that supports 6" brackets.

Does anyone have any suggestions where to get a good quality decorative traverse rod? Are they all adjustable telescoping or is possible to get one in a 10' length?

Then what to do for the actual drapes? Do I get multiple panels (3 per side) and have the gaps or get them custom made?

I don't know why this window gives me so many problems and I have such difficulty settling on a decision. I guess because the more I spend the more I am worried I'll get locked into a decision that I'll need to use for years and may look dated.

I think I could be happy with this type of look (but not puddling on the floor):

Could I get this look using a traverse rod? Any what type of top treatment (back tab or ??)

Would it work layered with ivory sheers below?

Maybe french pleats?

When you say supports 6" brackets, what do you mean?
Do you mean a 6" return? (That's the distance from the rod to the wall)
I think that's what you may mean. Why 6"? Are you trying to clear the sheers underneath which are on another rod?
If it were me, I'd be looking for a double rod where the inside rod is for fixed curtain and the outside rod is traverse.
Look at Select, Graber, Kirsch and The Finial Company.

If you can't find what you want locally or online - and honestly without help it's challenging to make sure you have all the components right, then I know of a place that you could call for help. The Fabric Company is a store in Chesterfield MO that has all the lines in drapery hardware. I worked there several years ago. I just checked and they don't have any of the drapery hardware on their website, but you could call them and ask for a quote.
I have to say, I know what I'm looking for and I'm having a heck of a time finding it on any of the typical websites. I can only imagine how frustrating it is, and why people end up with the fixed rods and cafe rings that are supposed to "slide" along the rod.

Oh wow! Finally I found some - check out traverse rods at Smith and Noble.

Here is a link that might be useful: Smith&Noble

mlweaving_Marji: Thanks so much for taking the time to research rods for me. Yes, I like that one a lot and think it could work. I had been debating doing another rod and rings solution; it would be cheaper, at same time I remind myself I did spend several hundred on the above solution which did not stand the test of time whereas my custom WTs on a traverse rod in my LR/DR are in near perfect condition. I was working with one of the online consultants who said I could get by with a 4" bracket (instead of the 6" one) as my moldings are not elaborate.

This would be a custom rod (no return) so I want to figure out all of the other options before placing an order. Do you (or anyone else) have any suggestions regarding rod length vs. panel width? I guess my next step would be to choose the drapes and based on that then order the rod.

This post was edited by valinsv on Wed, Oct 23, 13 at 19:19

Figure your rod based upon the measurement of the window plus the stack back. I'm thinking you're drawing all to one side - if my interpretation of pic is correct you need a left one way draw rod.
Are you going with pinch pleated draperies? It doesn't matter what the style of pleat is, the stack back is the same. So using one of the standard charts out there figure out what length rod you need by adding your stack back figure to your window width. Depending on your room you may not have room for all of your drapery to stack back on wall, so double check your window and wall measurement to make sure you're not trying to order something too long.
Now, To figure your total drapery width you add the total length of the rod to the amount of one return. (If you had center pull drapes you'd add two returns.)
If you order a double rod the inside rod will hold your sheers and the outside rod will hold your drapes and the mount will be set up to correctly set the distance so they don't rub each other and the sheer doesn't peak up over the top of the drapery.
Now you order the draperies based upon your rod measurement. Remember that when you measure the heighth to hang the rod to measure from where the pin holds the fabric, not necessarily from the top of the panel.
Does all this make sense?

still confused about what the heck "WTs" are

ETA: oh, wait . . . "window treatments" possibly? Is this a common abbreviation among some subset of homeowners or industry professionals?

This post was edited by Violet.West on Wed, Oct 23, 13 at 21:36

mleaving_Marji: Thanks for the detailed specs for the measurements. I do prefer a center draw as they are presently. Here is a better picture from before when they still looked good:

Overall I have decided I'd like to keep the same orientation, dimensions on the wall and similar color (other possibility I am considering would be a ivory/tan linen).

After getting a quote for custom window treatments (WTs) from JC Penney's I am back to debating the grommet top drapes with sheers layered below. I now realize my inner rod can be placed closer to the wall, esp. if I do not require a traverse rod, and so the outermost rod need not extend so far.

Are grommet drapes really not practical for daily opening and closing? I could do that for about 1/4 the price of the JC Penney's draperies and I don't think I'll find a much better price elsewhere. These are the ones I am considering which is similar to what I have now (the sage/moss green color):

I could get similar fabric in custom, which I like now, but would then feel locked into using for many years; then I wonder if it'd be safer to get an ivory color - but does it really make sense to spend so much on something that I don't really love? With the grommet top ones, I could always change them 3-4 years from now if I feel the need for a change.

It must seem like I am very indecisive. I just don't want to make another expensive decorating mistake as even without custom these is a sizable expense once you factor in the rod(s), sheers and outer drapes.

I think I remember your bedroom from when you were trying to decide on the duvet? It looks lovely!
I also can keep up with the best of the indecisive; and no, you don't seem terribly so. I think if you were absolutely loving something different then it would b worth it, but it looks great as is, and since the JCP option with the grommets will fit right in without being crazy $$ I would go for that.
I know people on here have suggested grommets for patio doors in the past, but I would wait for more confirmation from the experts:)

Grommets, unlike traverse, can get stuck at the junction of the curtain rods and be hard to pull across. Further, there is nothing to keep the spacing of the folds even so if you want them to hang nicely during the day, you will have to futz and finesse them on a daily basis.

Try and pull the grommeted curtain panel across a pole-on the store if there is room. The less slippery the pole, the closer the grommet fits the pole, and the heavier the curtain, the harder it will be to pull. You'll be right back in this same position, only sooner. And as Annie pointed out, even if your grommet slides somewhat smoothly over the pole, as soon as it hits an obstruction it's going to tug.
If you want heavy blackout curtains and you want to operate them everyday a traverse rod really is the answer. Have you considered a valance or cornice board over the top? Some are quite attractive. And with the rod going under a cornice you don't need the expensive decorative traverse rod, you can use the std white ones. Kirsch are really the best but a store brand is also perfectly acceptable, and then you won't be needing to change out your full draperies every few years.
Or you could hang your panels on stationary grommets on a rod and put a pull down black out roller shades under your sheers for nighttime.

You might also look at hunter douglas architella vertiglide...they are like honey comb shades but operate vertically instead for sliders and they come with room darkening....

So you can just mount dummy panels on the sides, keep the sheers in the middle if you want or need them, and use the vertiglide for room darkening at night.

This post was edited by AnnieDeighnaugh on Sat, Oct 26, 13 at 8:50

This is an example of a cornice board made from moulding pieces. You could do this DIY fairly economically, then buy white traverse rods and hang them underneath, and keep your look that you have now.

[Traditional Dining Room[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-dining-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_722~s_2107) by Granite Bay General Contractors Landmark Builders

[Traditional Bedroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bedroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_715~s_2107) by Wilton Interior Designers & Decorators Dale Minske Interior Design and Decoration

[Traditional Bedroom[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bedroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_715~s_2107) by Las Vegas Interior Designers & Decorators Tara Dudley Interiors