The walls are SW Ecru; the photos don't show it well, but it made a huge difference and I really love this shade. I primed and base coated the laminate counter with SW Harmonic Tan and sponged on various acrylic paints for a faux granite look. The fabric is Waverly Indienne on the bottom and just something I found to match at Hobby Lobby for the top. The curtain rod is a bamboo pole I cut to fit, and I have another matching one for the future window valance. I've since added trim to the shower curtain and may use the same trim on the paper shades I bought at the thrift store for $1 each. I'm still considering different sconces, but these look nice for now (one needs to be rewired, hence the unlit bulb). All in all, I've only spent about $75 since I repurposed several things, like the mirrors from another bath, leftover grasscloth wallpaper and paint, etc. The faucets will be changed out for brushed nickel, which will be the biggest expense.

Before

After

Before

After

Before

During

After

Laurie

You might be surprised if you look, though. New white drop in sinks and a white toilet would not be very expensive at all.

Right on! I love how you used what you already had, instead of ripping out and replacing. People should be doing more of that these days! :-)

You did a fantastic job on the counter. I thought it was a granite or a silestone type counter. And I love the shower curtain. The lights look good, too, but I see you have the brushed nickel pulls on the vanity so maybe paint the lights? You definitely have the talent. : )

And all this loveliness for $75! You really need to send these pics into a magazine or BH&G. I bet there are lots of people trying to blend new and not so new colors, fixtures, etc. Your redo would be just the inspiration so many are looking for.

Great job!!!

Diana

I know what you mean by keeping the old avocado fixtures, I have the old dark beige fixtures in our front bathroom and I'll never change them out.

I can definitely see ORB faucets though. It would be the icing on the cake!

Happyladi, we will be replacing the master bath Harvest Gold fixtures with white, because I can't manage to work that color into the scheme and they are in worse shape. But I really like earthy green and this avocado is actually quite a nice shade. I did consider resale, though, and potential buyers at some point might have preferred white.

Justgotabeme, thanks for the input regarding the grasscloth. I think the flash really gave them more contrast then they have IRL, but you make a good point. I had to paper them since the previous plaid wallpaper was permanently adhered to the wood, but a glaze over them might be just the thing to tone them down.

What does everyone think about the sconces? They are a heavy antique-toned brass, and look like quality pieces. My only issue is that I'm using brushed nickel pulls and hardware. Do you think they work as is? I considered painting them, but black seems too visually heavy and I have yet to find a good paint that replicates brushed nickel. Rewiring them isn't an issue and I can do it myself, but they have to be removed for that anyway. If I take them down, is it worth putting them back up? I would love some opinions as to whether I should replace them or not.

this way you've saved money etc on the guest bath and changing out the mstr bath won't be so bad to do.

you did a great job of pulling it all together - super!

I think the sconces are fine - they'll be 'up there' and the brushed nickel will be 'down there' (below eye level - to me anyway!) I don't think they all have to match if separated by space like they are.

I DID a double take on your counters. Thought it was granite and at the least thought new laminate. Didn't realize it until I got to the sponge pic. I need to be brave like you! Did you put a protective clear coat over the paint?

Everything really does look nice. I still like your sconces. I think the faucets will look nice in the brushed nickle.

Pat yourself on the back!

"We will be replacing the master bath Harvest Gold fixtures with white, because I can't manage to work that color into the scheme and they are in worse shape."

N000OOOooo... You can work with the Harvest Gold too! You did such a fantastic job with the Avocado. You have talent! But of course if the Harvest Gold fixtures are broken beyond use, you will have to replace them to be functional. Do give it a second thought though if they can be saved.

"What does everyone think about the sconces?.... I would love some opinions as to whether I should replace them or not."

They look OK now, but when it comes time to change out the faucets I would consider changing them to match. If you have to take them down anyway to rewire them I would just get new ones. OR maybe spray paint them a deep Cream color and rub some "dark" into the recessed detailing.

If you keep them "as is" then, when you get the new nickel faucets do not go with ones that are too modern and streamlined. If you get nickel faucets that are a little "fancier" it will help transition between the modern drawer pulls and the intricate sconces.

Great job! Something to really think about - I'm going to show this to my DD. Thanks for sharing. :)

Can you tell me how you went about faux finishing the counter top, i.e., type of paint, colors and entire procedure? Thanks Great job!!

Trailrunner, I'll definitely check out the Sophisticated Finishes; can you tell me what stores might carry that brand?

Desertsteph, that exactly what I'm hoping with the various metal finishes; since the antique brass is on an upper plane and all the brushed nickel is about waist level or lower, it doesn't seem too discordant right now. I know you're not suppose to mix warm and cool metals, but it seems to work, at least to my eye.

Dilly Dally, thanks for your vote of confidence in me! The main reason I don't want gold in the MBA is because the only thing my husband asked for was a blue bedroom and I've already worked in blues, browns, and white trim. I know yellow and blue can work, but these particular shades certainly don't ;-)

I have actually already done one harvest gold update; the downstairs powder room/three-quarter bath had a gold sink and shower. The sink was leaking and we replaced it with a new vanity/sink combo, but since the shower unit was fine, I designed the room around the color. You can't see it in this photo, but the harvest gold shower is across from the toilet. The shower curtain is the same fabric as the (my3dogs-style) valance.

I almost wish the toilet hadn't already been replaced with a white one by the PO, since gold would blend in better. I guess I could always switch the master bath gold toilet and this white one and continue the eco-friendly "green" circle!

OMG...amazing, simply amazing, both of them!

As far as the details, I cleaned the counter well with a green scrubbing pad and homemade scouring powder (baking soda, borax, and salt), but any abrasive cleanser should work. I rinsed and wiped it down, then trimmed away some of the excess caulk around the sinks. I brushed on a coat of SW Adhesion Primer. It’s pretty thin and goes a very long way, so a quart should be plenty. I let it dry overnight, but that might not be necessary. In the morning, I did two coats of satin base color SW Harmonic Tan. I didn’t tape off for this, since I wanted to get really close to the wall and sinks. I let this dry for a day as well; again, that might be overkill, but I wanted to make sure everything was fully cured. I used blue painters tape along the wall and around the sinks after the base coat was set.

I bought a set of two sea sponges at Hobby Lobby; one was bigger and softer, the other smaller and a bit stiffer. I picked acrylic paints that coordinated with my fabric; I used Americana brand Raw Umber and Camel and Anita’s All Purpose brand Black, Safari Taupe, and Olive Green. I dampened the large sea sponge, dipped it in the paint on a paper plate, and smeared it around on the plate to get off the excess. I dabbed on the black first, then raw umber, and then the lighter colors. Use a light pouncing motion and don’t let it smear or it looks unrealistic.

I didn’t wait long enough for each color to set at first and it started to look a bit muddied. So I sponged the base color on very generously over the whole thing to reset the stage a bit. This worked really well, but if I had waited longer between paints, it might not have been necessary. Then again, it might be what gave me such a realistic look! I went back over with all the colors again using the smaller, stiffer sponge to break up any big blotches of color and get into the tight places. I used very little green and khaki (Safari Taupe), just little bits here and there to tie in the room colors. The black, raw umber, and Harmonic Tan base coat were really the key players. I think you could use these paints and add an accent color or two of any muted shade and make it work with other fabrics or décor.

After it all dried, I used three coats of water based polyurethane. It left some brush strokes I wasn’t thrilled with, so I may experiment with a different product or application method if there is a next time. Also, I would recommend removing the painter’s tape before the poly coat if you have a steady hand. I neglected to and the tape peeled off a bit of the poly in some places.

Well, that’s it in a nutshell. Hope that wasn’t too many details, but since I had to figure it out as I went, I wanted to share as much as possible. Here’s a close up picture so you can see the mix of colors.

WOW!!!!!!
beautiful job!!

Not saying you need to mess with it, but if the poly brush strokes bother you, check in woodworking or antiques forum for tips. What my DH does (when finishing furniture) is to lightly sand smooth each layer of poly with 200 to 220 grit paper. Since you're all done, no harm if you just sand the top. If it doesn't level the brush strokes, drop it down a grit to 180 if that doesn't get it. Doubt I'd go lower than 180, or you'll go too deep into the poly. Gentle touch.
DH applies poly with balled up pantyhose. He gets a smooth level finish, no bubbles. He got that tip from a woodworking magazine. I tried that method but just can't get the hang of it, so I stick to my usual wide black sponge brush well loaded and do one stroke, try not to drag it back through. But that's such a nice job you did, if you do opt to work on it anymore, maybe buy one of those sink cut outs ($1 at big box stores). Put your poly on there and practice on it till you get a feel for it.

Honestly, that's just unreal. I just can't get over that job. Well done! ;D

Truly amazing job on the countertop!!! :)

Very very well done indeed!!!

Jan

Joan

The countertop transformation is truly amazing and I've always loved Ecru.

You obviously found a hidden "talent." Lucky girl!

Thank you for posting the technique.

This is just amazing! I've loved greens (including avocado) all my life and am so happy it could all be repurposed.

You done good!

Remember to try to donate the vintage fixtures that you are not going to keep, to ReStore or put it on CL or Freecycle. Someone will enjoy it.

To those who did, there's a post on the conversation side, that's just for you. :)

I'm wondering if you can get rid of the brush strokes on your counter by a light sanding and another coat of poly? Maybe ask at the paint store.

The Spophisticated Finishes can be found at Michaels. I used "Blackened Bronze Metallic Surfacer" on my kitchen cabinet hardware, then sealed it with a few coats of water-based poly. It went from bright brass and white plastic (!) to looking like oil rubbed bronze. It was a very inexpensive fix!

I like your sconces. You might consider combo brushed nickel and brass faucets if you're worried about the two metals, but I don't think everything has to match anyway. Hard to tell from your pix, but the floor seems subtle enough not to require immediate attention, especially if you decide to glaze the inserts and paint the quarter round. Kudos!!!

Love the idea about switching the MB toilet with the powder rm's.

You should save all these details and notes somewhere - I've wished I could remember how I got a particular 'look' in the past...and this one is worth replicating!!

Moonshadow, thank you for the tip on poly. I've used it a few times before and could never get rid of all the brush strokes, so it must be my technique. I'll have to try the pantyhose. Do you know if your husband uses water based or oil based poly? I'm wondering if oil based would be more self-leveling, as it is in paint. Since my counter is dark, I shouldn't have to worry about any slight yellowing, I think. I did try to sand lightly after the first coat of poly, but I was in a hurry. I'll try again with the right grit and use a better brush.

ejmoore, I have to admit I actually didn't research my process very much. I had read in the past that you could paint laminate, and I know there are some special (but expensive) products out there for refinishing them. But since we had talked about replacing this counter in the future anyway, I knew I had nothing to lose by trying. When I found the bonding primer at SW, it sparked the idea again. I've picked up brochures about sponge painting at the paint store before, so I knew to use a sea sponge for the faux finish. That's about it. I already had the Harmonic Tan paint on hand and liked that it was just a shade different from the wall color, so I went with what I had and used my fabric and paint chip to select coordinating acrylics.

I am not "artistic" at all (that's an understatement; my five year old niece once said what a bad artist I am ;-). I'm just handy and frugal, so I think this is definitely something anyone can do!

Dilly, I love your ideas about working in harvest gold with some browns and navy. You've got my rethinking my MBA! The yellow fixtures upstairs are brighter than the sink was in the powder room; you may be right about not being "harvest gold" exactly, though. I wasn't born in the 70's, so that's the name I tend to stick on any of those yellowish sinks and toilets. Since justgotabme asked for a new thread and you have some great colors ideas, I'll start a new post with photos of the MBA/MBR. Maybe we can find a way to repurpose the yellow in there, too!

I tend to agree with you that oil-based poly might be more self-leveling than water. And if it did amber, it certainly wouldn't fight your work, it might just add some extra richness and depth to it? Could be very cool looking. Tho it's hard to top what you've done there already, that's for sure!

BTW, DH said of your counter, when I told him it wasn't granite "Wow, that's cool." A high compliment from my DH, a man of very few words. Most things just get a "hmmmph". ;D

I have a large expanse of black laminate in a second kitchen that I'm going to try this on. I'm just completly blown away by how wonderful yours looks. Not to mention that you saved your landfill!

Great job and thanks for sharing with the detailed instructions!

I have another laminate counter in the dressing area/walk in closet of the guest room attached to this bath, so I'm going to do the same technique on that counter after I paint the built-ins black. I hope it wasn't just beginner's luck in the bathroom! This redo will be free, though, since I already have all the supplies. Doesn't get any better than that!

wbgroovy, it's funny you should say that. If we ever need to remodel another house on a budget, I think I might seriously consider getting some lovely avocado toilets and sinks from the Habi store just so I could have this scheme again. Not only would it be eco-friendly and cheap, I like the one-of-a-kind look it gives. But those old toilets are big water guzzlers, so that might cancel out the "green-ness" of it ;-)

The "granite" paint job looks like to real thing.

You go girl!!

Keep the white toilet in the small BA - it's right next to the white sink. Unless you swap out the sink at the same time with the MBA sink. But maybe you could use the antique brass sconce(s) in that BA? I hate to see you paint them.

OK, don't take this as gospel, but I have heard from a relative that if you put a brick in the toilet tank of one of the older model water guzzlers it makes them more efficient. Shortly after that we were painting a rental bath and removed tank lid. There inside was a brick placed there by prior tenant. So there might be something to it?

Arjay, I really appreciate the cleaning tips. I haven't done anything other than just regular wiping. Do you mean furniture polish like Pledge or some similar product? I have never heard of that, but I can see how the film would repel water. I may try to wax, because my sink in particular is bad about toothpaste rings!

You've done an amazing job...it's beautiful!
I still can't get over the countertop either!

About the makeover: WOW! Love it! Maybe I'll get the nerve to do something like that to my white laminate countertop in the MBA if I don;t replace the whole vanity. I'll have to practice first. :) Or I have a talented decorator acquaintance who might could do it for me.

While you're at it, use the Pledge on the bathroom mirror glass. You won't have to use glass cleaner anymore. Just a quick swipe with a micro fiber or slightly damp cloth. Every mirror in our home is waxed. What a timesaver for me.

Slibstorff, it's late and I still need to unpack, but I'll reply tomorrow about painting the cabinets.

What I must comment on, is how black adds a richness to the color palette, very sophisticated IMO.

Also, please don't replace the faucets unless they leak. Those crystal tops look so good, all sparkly, like jewelry!

I'm sure someone else may have another good cleaning tip for them, I'm going to try waxing my porcelain and mirrors for sure!

Paint the quarter round, glaze the grasscloth but leave the faucets, and the sconces (except the rewiring) alone. I also prefer plain window treatments, so I wouldn't touch another thing. Verry nice!

I have wanted to redo my kitchen counter tops and of course they are laminate. I am going to try this techique. and if it flubs, it will be a great excuse to replace them :) how do you like that logic!!

How do you think that coloring (countertop) would work with white cabinets? I dont think I can paint my kitchen cabinets black, although that really does make it all pop.

VERY NICE JOB

I also already finished the matching bamboo pole and valance for the window. I added green ball fringe to the shower curtain, too. I think the window needed a little something, so to my eye it's just enough. Here's a photo.

Rjinga, I think this faux granite technique would definitely work on your kitchen counters. I would try the panyhose technique with oil based poly to seal it, as recommended by a poster above, as I'm not satisfied with the waterbased applied with a foam brush. With white cabinets, you might try using less black and maybe more khaki or light colors. Or try a new scheme all together. I picked my acrylic shades from elements already in the room for a custom look to tie it all together. You could choose colors already in your kitchen or collect some free laminate samples you like from Lowes/HD and then buy paints to replicate the palette. As I mentioned above, my counter base coat was one shade darker than my walls and then I just sponged the coordinating acrylics on top. At less than $1 per paint bottle, it would be super cheap to try some sample boards until you're happy with the look. Best of luck!

Achieving a urethane finish without bubbles
Often, brushed-on polyurethane finishes end up having bubbles in them, no matter how careful you may be. To avoid this, try wiping these finishes on your projects with wadded-up pantyhose or nylon stockings. This works particularly well on curved or contoured surfaces that may be difficult to reach properly with a brush.

I do enjoy sewing and upholstering, but that shower curtain and window treatment are about as easy as it comes. It would be a great simple project to start with, if you ever take up sewing. You might call your county extension office and see if they offer any classes, if your local sewing stores don't.

When discussing it with...well actually I forget who, It was brought to my attention that perhaps the type of materials used for your bath countertop may not be as durable for a kitchen countertop. I guess the possible cutting or heat and water issues in a kitchen is what was was being considered.

SOOOO,

After some time and exposure to "the elements" I thought I'd see what your feeling was on it. I'm sure a curling iron, or something like that would be an equivalent to a hot plate/pan etc. And of course you would have water exposure too.

I'd love to hear your thoughts (and any others who care to chime in)

I love it all.
You have inspired me to do my bathroom.
Thank you for the lovley ideas.
~boxerpups

Rjinga, the countertop is still holding up great six months later. I do have water splashes, hot curling irons, blow dryers, etc. on the counter frequently and have not had a problem. Just as with a regular laminate counter, I'm sure you would need to use pads or trivets under any hot pans.

There has been no bubbling or scratching of the paint. The only wear I see to the finish seems to be on the poly coat. There are some subtle rings where alcohol-based toiletries have sat. It's not noticeable to anyone but me, and I think had I used an oil-based poly, it wouldn't have happened. Water-based seemed easier at the time, but now I know it doesn't apply as smoothly and isn't as resistant. But the finish coat can always be sanded down and reapplied. You might even look at using a floor quality poly for a kitchen counter.

I think it's all about the first and the final coats. The adhesion primer has been fantastic. The paint is just sandwiched in between, so I should have used a better quality sealer. Even with a cheap water poly, it's fine for the bathroom. The only trick might be getting enough poly around the sink. I applied it as close to the edge of the sinks as possible, and it's been fine. I might go back around the rim with some clear silicone caulk if I ever feel the poly isn't protecting enough at the edges. If you could remove your sink before priming, painting, and sealing, that might be even better. It would be easier to work on the backsplash, too, as I had a hard time sponging paint neatly into the nooks and crannies behind the faucets.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you had any more specific questions.

Sorry, I brought it up and then missed your question. ;) DH is off due to snow, so I asked him.

Ball them up like a sock (a single leg only). Tuck any toe seam inside so it's not exposed. You basically are shooting for a smooth roll of nylon. Get them saturated with poly, but not dripping. You want to achieve min 2 thin layers. One thick layer can cause runs, ets. (Multiple thin layers applies with any tool i.e. brush, etc.) When he applies a layer, he only makes a single wiping motion in one direction. You want enough poly to cover the area, too little and you'll get skips, too much you'll get little waves and runs. No second (repeating) motion over the same spot, no dragging back through in reverse motion. (He said that will create bubbles.) Once completely dry, lightly sand with 220 minimum (no lower, but you can go higher in grit). That will even out poly. Wipe lightly w/tack cloth to remove any fine dust, etc.. Apply 2nd coat same manner as first. No matter how many coats, always sand in between, then of course the final coat is left alone.

He liked the pantyhose, he's a hobby woodworker and it's a tip he got from one of his magazines a long time ago. Some of his finishes look like glass. Me, I don't care for p-hose, felt like I didn't have as much control. If you're working on a project and have a scrap piece of wood around, maybe test the p-hose method. Guess it just depends on what you're comfortable with. :-)