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Sewing advice needed - linen shower curtain

bbstx
9 years ago

I'm considering making my own linen shower curtain because I need one 96" long.

1. Do I need to pre-wash the fabric? How will I get that nice, smooth new finish back? Send it to the cleaners for pressing?

2. To get the width I want, I will have to have a vertical seam. Should I seam the fabric in the middle, or should I use a full width as the center panel and seam the additional width on each side?

3. A standard shower curtain is 72" wide. My liner is 72" wide. If I make the shower curtain 2 widths (54 x 2) but stick to the standard 12 hooks, will it be too droopy between the grommets?

4. Do I need to interline the header or will that make it too hard to insert the grommets? If so, what type of interlining is recommended?

5. Do I need to line the shower curtain with standard curtain lining fabric?

6. How should the seams be treated to prevent fraying? I'm not up for flat-felling.

Anything else I need to know?

Comments (27)

  • Annie Deighnaugh
    9 years ago

    I would make it easier on myself by mounting 2 rods and only using the linen curtain decoratively...use the standard shower curtain as your actual curtain. Push it back behind the decorative one when not in use. They also make double shower curtain rods just for that purpose.

    Then you don't need to use grommets at all...you can just make a rod pocket, with or without a header. You don't need to worry about interlining. You don't need to seam together pieces of fabric as a single width will do and you'll need less fabric. You don't need to line the curtain unless you want to. You will need to pre-wash the fabric as I'm assuming you will want to wash it in the future and you don't want it to shrink on you.

    You might also look for a poly blend fabric that has a linen look rather than actual linen which would be more prone to wrinkling and less likely to shrink.

  • ratherbesewing
    9 years ago

    1) yes, to pre wash 2)Do not seam in the middle.Full width of fabric in the middle and pieces on the side 3) Not sure if you should double width the fabric- it might be too droopy. Maybe someone else can advise. 4) Not sure what you mean by interlining? You could use buckram (this is a 3 inch interfacing that will give body to the top header. 5) I would use regular drapery lining and of course, a plastic liner. 6) Linen will fray. Unless you have access to a serger, I would use. French seam. (YouTube is a great source for visual methods). for the "anything else" category: Practice the grommets on a spare piece of fabric, measure twice, cut once etc.

  • mclarke
    9 years ago

    Do you already have your fabric? If not, consider a fabric with a stripe -- even a subtle stripe will work -- to disguise the seam(s).

  • bbstx
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    interfacing! That was the term I was looking for. Thanks, rbs. I actually had a lightweight Pellon in mind. (Do they still make Pellon? I haven't sewn in a hundred years!)

    Unfortunately, I do not have a serger nor do I have access to a serger. Wish I did. That would sure speed up the process.

    AD, thanks for your suggestions. I would like the shower curtain to move on the rod with the plastic liner.

    I haven't bought the fabric yet, but I have gotten a swatch of a plain white linen from Fabrics-Store.com. I think someone on here recommended them for their large selection of linen. I would like to stick to a simple white linen curtain.

    Their all-purpose linen is 5.3 oz per square yard. The "heavy-rustic" linen is 7.1 oz per square yard. Any advice on which weight to order? The price difference is negligible.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Fabrics-store.com

  • tinam61
    9 years ago

    Ditto what ratherbesewing said. Good advice.

    Annie - are you saying a single width to leave pulled back to the side all the time?

    I feel your pain BB - I always want longer shower curtains that standard (72). I recently bought a linen shower curtain at RH. Mine is either vintage washed or stone washed. It's not meant to look starched, etc. More of a "relaxed" look but not wrinkled. I don't think you'll have to worry with wrinkling in a steamy bathroom.
    Sadly, there longer length is 84, I don't believe they gave a 96 length.

  • rosiew
    9 years ago

    Advice only about pre-washing: do it. Cut your lengths at least three inches longer than finished curtain. Remember to account for the hem. Finish all the edges with a zig zag stitch, then wash as you would the finished product.

    Sounds elegant. Good luck on the project.

  • Cloud Swift
    9 years ago

    We got this kind of Moen double hook so our shower curtain and liner would work together. We like that it keeps a bit of space between the cloth curtain and the liner.

    DENY Designs has shower curtains 94" long, but they might not have something plain enough for your tastes since their thing is having designs from various artists. They are pricey compared to other shower curtains, but we love the one we got from them.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Moen double hook at Amazon

  • Annie Deighnaugh
    9 years ago

    Yes, tinam...when showering you really only need the waterproof one. I've seen it done with 2 panels as well..one on each side and I've seen them with fabric valances too, though that tends to be really fussy.

  • Annie Deighnaugh
    9 years ago

    You really need to see a sample, but I suspect the heavier one will have a better hand and will hang nicer.

    I agree about leaving the center panel the full width, and I agree that French seams are the way to go...less sewing than flat felled, but still a well finished seam.

    Be careful when looking at interfacings...there are a zillion kinds including iron on, wash away, tear away, paper backed, and more, in addition to the various weights...make sure you get what you need. Yes they do still make pellon too.

    Using your numbers, the std is a bit over 6" between rings. Twelve hooks across 108" will be about 10" between rings which might be too saggy.

  • no_green_thumb
    9 years ago

    I just did this.
    My shower is 48" wide - so I used one width of fabric. I agree to put the width in the center - and the smaller panels on the sides.
    What I did ---
    I used two rods as I could not find a 48" double rod. It looks just fine.
    I made the outer curtain to match my window treatment. I made a rod pocket and pulled it back with a tie-back.
    I put the inside rod a little lower than the outside rod.
    I bought an extra long fabric liner --- and I think they come 96" and put that on the inside. I had to cut the width as it was 72" and I didn't want all of that fullness on the liner.
    When not in use, the liner is pulled back on the rod and can barely be seen.
    It has worked out really well.

  • bbstx
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    tinam, I ordered an 84" shower curtain from RH this morning for another guest bathroom. I got the diamond matelasse in white. I considered making a white linen for that bathroom too, but I know my limitations.

    So, rosie, you would cut then wash, instead of washing the whole length of fabric?

    I just searched to see if there were a rule of thumb on how much 100% linen will shrink when washed. Looks like it is 7% or 2 1/2 inches per yard. The same website recommended line drying linen rather than putting it in the dryer.

    I have seen some beautiful shower curtain "treatments" with tie-backs and valances, but I've got super simple white linen in my mind.

    Annie, thanks for doing the math on the spacing of the grommets. I'll have to do a little experimenting to see how the chosen fabric behaves. And I'm sure your right about buying the heavier fabric. I have samples but they are only 1"x2". I can't really get a feel for the hand.

    Those Moen hooks would be great, but I've already purchased the standard hooks, albeit the ones with roller balls. When a shower curtain is 8 feet up, it is difficult to get it to move. The roller balls really help.

  • juliekcmo
    9 years ago

    If you are are going to prewash the fabric, then I would cut into the 2 lengths before washing just so the fabric could agitate better.

    I would NOT cut it exactly to length before washing, but would order and add an extra foot for each length to you needed length (Needed Length = how long the curtain will be, add for header, hem, turning allowance on header and hem, and then a bit extra (about a foot to be safe) to add for straightening the grain.) Then add 1 foot extra on each piece for the shrinkage.

  • tinam61
    9 years ago

    I looked at the matelasse curtains also!

    If you want to use curtain rings/hooks, I would not make the width so wide. The RH curtains are not wider, just longer (just an example). Do you like that look? I would not use wider unless you are pleating, gathering or shirring on the rod. Just my thoughts. The RH linen is not heavy at all and hangs well.

  • justgotabme
    9 years ago

    Are you talking 100% linen?

  • bbstx
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    No, no pleating, shirring, or gathering. Just a flat white panel.

    I just found 108" wide shower curtains at BBB! So extra wide curtains are out there. They use 18 hooks. Considering the advice I've gotten here, I might go slightly wider than 72, but not as wide as 2 widths. If I were to make the curtain 84" and use the 12 hooks I have, I would have a grommet every 7"-8".

    Yes, 100% linen. Oh, and I just found a site that says to allow for 4" of shrinkage for every yard!

  • Annie Deighnaugh
    9 years ago

    They still make buckram too...that might be the best for supporting the top.

  • bbstx
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    AD, is buckram machine washable?

  • ratherbesewing
    9 years ago

    At Joann Fabrics, buckram comes on a roll and you have it cut for the yardage you want. Typically, laundry instructions are written on the roll.

  • ratherbesewing
    9 years ago

    At Joann Fabrics, buckram comes on a roll and you have it cut for the yardage you want. Typically, laundry instructions are written on the roll.

  • Annie Deighnaugh
    9 years ago

    Yes it comes washable and dry cleanable. It also comes translucent for sheer fabrics and iron on for easier application. But I've only ever used the plain old fashioned one.

  • bbstx
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    YAY!!! Got an email today from Fabrics-store.com that the linen I want for the shower curtain is 15% off today only. Now, I've got to figure the yardage. Double check me, please...

    From the bottom of the shower curtain ring to the floor is 100"; add 4" for the header (2" header doubled over); add 8" for bottom hem (4" hem doubled over). So, we are at 112" for one panel. Add 10% for shrinkage, and now we are at 123". Double that for the extra width - equals 246". Divide by 36 equals 6.83 yards. Round up to 7 yards. Does that sound right? Did I forget to account for something?

    Thanks for the buckram info. I live in the total boonies. The closest Joann's is an hour and a half away. The only fabric store closer is a Hancock's that is an hour away. Guess I better get ready for a road trip!

  • Annie Deighnaugh
    9 years ago

    I guess the only question is if 2" header will be enough. I just looked up on line and the drape header tape at Jo-anns is 3" wide....

    Here is a link that might be useful: header tape

  • bbstx
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    I just looked at a Martha Stewart video on how to construct a shower curtain. She only uses a 1.5" header, but she uses a 5" hem - both doubled. I think 1.5" header is too skimpy, plus, would make insertion of buckram/interfacing difficult, should I decide to use it.

    I'm not sure if I will need interfacing or not. (1) it might make the header too thick for the grommets to go through; and (2) I'm buying the heavier weight linen and doubling it which will give 3 layers of fabric at the top so it may have enough body on its own.

    I think I'll have to wait until I have it and wash it and start construction before I make a decision on inserting any stiffener.

  • bbstx
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    nuther, you explained it very well. What a great idea! I think I'll adopt it. I've already ordered another set of shower curtain rings!

  • justgotabme
    9 years ago

    "1. Do I need to pre-wash the fabric? How will I get that nice, smooth new finish back? Send it to the cleaners for pressing?"

    I thought you would want to know that 100% linen will, more than likely, not keep its "smooth new finish" in a humid bathroom. If that's the look you are going for, you might want to search for a linen look fabric with a content of 100% polyester.
    If you don't mind the slightly wrinkled look, then it's say go for it. It's going to look beautiful.

  • suska6184
    9 years ago

    I was just about to ask what nutherokie explained- thanks. Not sure how else you could do a double width curtain with a standard liner.