|Hi all, |
I KNOW BETTER than to use these rubbery waffle-weave rugs pads. But they are everywhere-so easy to grab at Homegoods, etc. and they're effective!
BUT they leave an imprint. It doesn't matter all that much if you will always, always, have a rug covering a particular area. I just removed a large seagrass rug that had rubberized backing and it left a very noticeable pattern on my hardwood floors. It isn't a residue--it has either "worn" the finish off in a basketweave pattern, or has a chemical reaction with the finish. Another area has the same issue, but from a pad, not backing.
This must be a common problem--I have seen it before in a previous home with hardwood floors. (I know, then WHY do I keep using them??) Has anyone had any luck removing these marks without professional buffing?
Thanks for any advice.
|I found this answer on the internet so I copied it to show it to you: |
I have a large area rug in my living room on my wood floors. Under the rug I had a "Rug Saver Rug Pad" that I purchased at Wal-Mart. This rug pad was designed to keep the rug from slipping under your feet on your wood floors. I watched an episode of "Designed to Sell" on HGTV. In the particular episode, the couple had what looked like the exact same rug pad on their hard wood floors. When the designer went to take the rug up, the rug pad STUCK TO THE FLOOR!! I freaked out. I moved all the furniture in my living room so that I could pull up the rug pad to see if the rug pad I had was sticking to my wood floor. It stuck a little and I was left with a waffle print residue on my floor.
To remove the residue, I washed the area with Murphy's Oil Soap and water using the method I described above. You could still see the waffle print. I had to buff the mark off my floor using an industrial grade buffer. Please learn from my mistake and don't put a rug pad that is polyester coated with PVC on your wood floors.
I have given you some great tips on how to care for your wood floors. You don't need expensive products, just some simple Murphy's Oil Soap, water, and a microfiber broom. With a little care, your wood floors will stay gorgeous for years to come.
Published by Meg G.
|Yayagirl, I saw that, too. This woman was dealing with a sticky RESIDUE, which is not my problem. There is no residue whatsoever. It looks almost like the shine is worn of in a waffle pattern. |
Thank you, though! Maybe that will help someone else.
p.s. She also recommends Murphy's oil soap, which I think should have a big skull and crossbones on the front label. Evil stuff, in my experience. Strips, dries...ugh.
|I can't help with the waffle pattern, but know to NEVER use Murphy's Oil soap if you have a Swedish finish on your floor (and maybe other kinds of finishes). I was told that if/when you want to have your floor refinished (buffed and finish reapplied, I'm not sure it's true if you have it sanded to bare wood) the oil used, regardless of how long ago, will prevent another coat of finish from bonding with what's already there. I think that orange oil stuff is also a no no. The link isn't to my original source of that info, but says the same thing. |
I wonder if you can have the floor buffed and a new coat of finish applied to fix the problem?
Here is a link that might be useful: wood floor care
This post was edited by olychick on Sat, Jun 22, 13 at 15:33
|I do not have a Swedish finish on my wood floors and I was also told by our flooring installer to never use Murphy's oil soap on the floors. |
On Murphy's label it says "pure vegetable oil soap". So you are really washing the floor with oil and water. but when the water evaporates the vegetable oil remains. The idea is to clean things not coat them with vegetable oil soap residue."
Here also is statement from Bona-Kemi regarding Murphy's Oil Soap:
"Murphy's Oil Soap was tested as maintenance cleaner for hardwood floors to find the possible effects on future screen and recoats. A 2- 1/4" red oak strip floor was prepared using BonaKemi waterbased finish. The floor was then maintained for four weeks, using he manufacture's recommended procedures. Suggested concentration levels were used on a portion of the floor, with slightly differing levels across the remained of the floor.
Before screening the floor for a recoat, it was apparent that an "oily" residue remained on the floor. While screening, the disk gummed up with a waxy residue.
During application of a new topcoat, "fisheyes" developed in spots, and crawling in some areas was observed. Adhesion on the new finish application was poor with complete failure in some areas
Due to the apparent incompatibility of Murphy's Oil Soap residue with subsequent recoating, we cannot recommend its use as a maintenance program cleaner for hardwood floors."
|What I would try is to pour some mineral spirits onto a 0000 (super fine grade) steel wool pad and rub that onto the hardwood. I don't know whether it will work, but worth a try. You can buy both products at any hardware store, Home Depot or even Walmart.|
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