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Posted by juddgirl2
Sun, May 23, 10 at 1:46
|I remember someone asked about the Monocoat oil that I planned on using for my unfinished salvaged wood table. Just finished applying it this morning and took some pics while it's curing in the garage. I love the way it deepened the brown of the wood.
The original unfinished, weathered look was so pretty but I really wanted to use a protective finish. Our first table was damaged but we were able to use it until this replacement table was delivered. Even with very light use it had a water ring stain and a strange pink stain from an errant drop of marinara sauce that I tried to clean off.
RH recommends either Briwax or Monocoat for their salvaged line. I went with the Monocoat because it's supposed to repel water. I get water ring marks on my other waxed table, so I have to rewax every 6 months or so. Monocoat is very easy to apply - just one coat and then wipe off the excess after 10 minutes or so.
I just love this table and I bet it's going to look fabulous with your new floors. It's a killer table, it is. I hope it's everything you thought it would be, it sure looks it to me.
|Love,love,love your table!!|
|Thanks, newdawn and homebody. I still love it (keep going out to the garage to visit it :-D) and would love to get the matching sideboard if the price ever comes down. |
I hope the table works with the new floors. The tung oil ambered the walnut finish more than I expected and having floors at all still feels strange to me!
|It's lovely. Do remember that area rugs will help with the transition with the table and floor. Putting a rug below that table will allow it to really stand out.|
|That is such a beautiful table. I wish I had a few more power tools so I could make them myself. Well with hubby's help. With all the barns that are dropping around us I'm sure we could find plenty of wood to reclaim. |
Have you thought about seeing if a local craftsman could build you a matching sideboard?
Here's a pattern for a neat sideboard that's DIY-able that could work with you table. I'm sure it could be altered to look more like the RH sideboard you want and most likely cost a lot less. Especially if you can do it yourself.
Below you'll find a link to Knock-Off-Wood's home page where you can see if there's anything else that would fit your needs better.
Here is a link that might be useful: Knock-Off-Wood
|me too. drool. and you have the perfect space for it.|
|Table's now in the dining room and it looks good with the new floor color, although a rug might make it stand out more. I'll have to look into that. I've never had a rug in my dining room so I'm not sure what the best sizing is and how pulling the chairs out would work. |
Justgotabme - thanks for the link! I might find some plans there to help with our entertainment wall.
|okay...anxiously waiting for pics. My wide plank floors were installed on the first floor over the weekend. No tung oil yet. I can't wait to see the finished product!|
|You are very welcome. I just recently came on that site and am awed at all the work the young woman that runs it has put into drawing up plans for all this furniture for the average DIYer to use. For FREE! |
Add me to the list of those anxiously waiting pictures of your table in the dining room. As for rugs I wouldn't be much help since I don't care for rugs under dining tables. I'd miss the ability to slide my chair in and out with ease.
|juddgirl, sorry to keep hounding you, but we seem to have similar tastes :) |
Just got my salvaged teak table. I'm thinking of applying a monocoat finish. Did you use a clear finish? Where did you purchase the monocoat oil? Did you sand it or do any prep work? How long does it have to sure before you can use the table?
All the information I find on google on monocoat is for hardwood floors.
Thank you so much!!!
|pps - I used one coat of Monocoat oil on my table, and it was very easy to apply. Before applying the oil, I just lightly sanded a few areas to avoid splinters and then wiped down the table with a damp cloth and let it dry. |
It can be used for furniture as well as flooring, but the wood has to be completely unfinished. It darkens the wood to a color similar to what it would look like wet.
So far, I'm really happy with it. It's durable and repels water much better than a waxed finish. I read the instructions below, and believe we waited a few weeks for it to completely cure before using the table.
Here is a link that might be useful: Monocoat application for furniture
|Did you use the clear oil?|
|Your table looks wonderful! |
We used Monocoat on our walnut kitchen floor (a dark chocolate color). What a great product-after more than a year of heavy use (we have a large family) it has held up very well. Easy to clean and feels great, too!
I hope it works as well on your table in the years to come!
|pps, I did use one coat of the clear. |
timber, it's good to hear that the monocoat on your walnut floor is holding up well. I'm hoping not to have to reoil it that often.
Can I ask what you clean your floor with? I know they sell Monocoat cleaner, but so far I've just used a damp cloth every so often.
|I love the table. I bet it makes you happy to have it. |
|Wow, what a beautiful table! I would love to see it in its own room.|
|Love the table. Please share the whole room when you get it all together. I absolutely adore the chairs you are using! |
|We just finished installing and painting all the trim - yay! - so I'll have to take pictures of the dining room once I put everything back in its place and I can call it done (for now anyway).|
|Hi juddgirl2 - Love the table! I have ordered the Avignon style of the same table from RH and was planning on doing the Monocoat too. Did you use the whole gallon of the monocoat? I was wondering if I should try to save some money and order 10 of the samples sizes instead of the gallon but was not sure if this type of ridiculous penny pinching made any sense at this point... Any other thoughts or advice would be appreciated - thanks!! :-) |
PS Was your first table damaged? Our first one came without any hardware to put it together (that was a month ago) the new one shipped earlier this week but I am scared something will be wrong with this one too...
|Hi Laura. |
If you call monocoat, you can order a quart. It's plenty for a table. I just did my monocoat on Wednesday and it was super easy.
|pps is correct - I used under a quart of the Monocoat for the 9 foot table, although I haven't finished the 2 18" leaves yet. I believe only one coat is needed to permeate the wood and a second coat isn't recommended. |
The first table just had a corner of the pedestal detail missing that might have been broken off during shipping - it was a clean square cut out of the corner. RH was great about exchanging it for another table. These tables are made of older wood though so even my new table has some knots and cracks, including the details of the pedestals, but these are obviously due to characteristics of the wood rather than damage. I love the rustic character of this table but it might not be for everyone.
The Monocoat darkened the color to a medium brown that I prefer over the original color. It's also offered protection that has held up so far to water rings, marinara sauce, and a whole bowl full of blue Lucky Charm cereal milk (all of these in my 6 year old daughter's place at the table). I just wipe the table clean with a damp rag and it looks exactly like it did when I applied the finish.
|Thanks so much y'all! Genius to order a quart - I was balking at the $100 gallon.. I love rustic too and cannot wait for the table - delivery is next Thursday (fingers crossed it all goes well) - thanks again!!|
|Laura - I actually did pay around $100 so I checked the website. It's available in one liter, which is what I ordered. It looks around the same as a quart but the can is slightly larger. I never did understand the metric system! One liter was enough for my table. |
It's worth the expense in my opinion. Very easy to apply and so far has offered total protection. Even better, no need to reapply every few months like I need to do with my kitchen table's Briwax finish. I might order another liter to use on that table.
|juddgirl2-We use the monocoat cleaner-not the one that builds up a patina, just the plain one.|
|Thanks juddgirl2 - I will pay the $100 too since it is what I need for the table. And after paying all that I am for the table (not to mention the chairs...) I do not want to be short-sighted and cheap out on protecting them. :-) Thanks for clarifying - I appreciate it!|
|Just wanted to say thanks! I came across this post in doing research on dining room tables. I really liked the RH trestle table look, but was not too thrilled about the idea of it having no protection against the inevitable dining spills. So I went out on a limb based upon this post and some other reading, got the table, ordered Rubio monocoat online (for $100!), and went to work on my thousands-dollar table (I have BARELY done any furniture work, which was part of the appeal of Rubio monocoat -- one coat only!). So far so good, it's still drying/curing, but it looks gorgeous! I loved seeing the grain and saw marks appear as I applied the finish. It darkened more than I expected, but it looks absolutely gorgeous, better than the unfinished product. Your pictures helped seal the deal for me that it was possible, so thank you!|
|that is awesome tennisfan! Mine still looks great and is totally impervious 2 years later. |
I agree the table finish is much nicer with the monocoat - my DH admitted that he did not even like the RH table before I had used the oil (glad he had kept that to himself!) - post a pic when it's all done so we can oggle :)
|Thanks, laurainlincoln! It's very nice to hear that it's holding up for you after 2 years of use. I'll try to post a pic when it's all done. I'm actually going to do the chairs, too (also RH), but I used every last drop of my 1 liter monocoat on the table, so I had to order another can for the chairs, and also ordered the natural soap cleaner. |
Funny about your DH, mine said almost the same thing last night when we went in the dining room to inspect my work -- he seemed so relieved!
Other good thing about monocoat that sold me on it, no VOCs. I had to do this finish in my house, so it was nice to know we weren't breathing bad fumes. My daughter said it smelled like green tea!
Thank you so much for this post. My husband and I love the trestle salvaged wood table from RH, but were hesitant about coating a $3k table and it turning orange. Your pics along with the other postings listed here have shown it's possible. Any concerns with stains 3 yrs later? What RH chairs did you go with? We were hesitant with the cane backed cloth seat chairs, but are concerned the Madeleine all wood chairs might look too small with table. Did you end up staining the chairs?
Thanks again. We're excited the RH table is now an option.
|I'll chime in - ours still looks fantastic and is wearing just as well. The Monocoat is so worth the price.|
|runningmom, the clear oil definitely didn't turn the wood orange - there are no orange undertones in the table. It's still a nice light brown with the finish coat, and I actually like it better than the unfinished wood. It looks richer. |
It does protect the table - no stains or water/heat marks 3 years later, although I think it's due for a refresher coat of oil. I just wipe it down with a damp cloth once in awhile.
I bought my side chairs at Shabby Chic and I'm not familiar with the RH chairs. I had my slipcovered head and foot chairs made at Calico Corners.
I still love my dining room and am very glad I went with the RH table. One caveat - I had two tables delivered and the second tabletop was a bit too rough so I lightly sanded before applying the oil. The first table had a smoother finish and didn't need any prep other than cleaning with a damp cloth and drying. Each table is different.
|For those who have used monocoat on your RH table (or other rustic unfinished tables) it would be really great to see some pictures here of your table after it's been in use for a while!|
|I have a quick question (it might sound silly). Did you use monocoat on the entire table including the legs or just the top part? Was 1L can enough for the entire table then? |
I have bought the same table and are awaiting the delivery
|Not silly at all! Yes I applied to every surface as it deepens the color a bit and you'll want all the wood to look consistent and yes the 1L can was enough for the whole job :)|
|I agree - you want to oil both the base and the tabletop or you'll have two different colors/finishes. The only part I didn't oil was underneath the tabletop, except for 3-4 inches all around the bottom edges to protect against dirty fingers! |
One liter was just enough for me to finish 2 tables (1 with leaves) and also a coffee table, so you should have enough.
rv1458 - I don't have any recent pictures but I'll try to post some soon. I think it looks the same as when I first oiled it though.
This post was edited by juddgirl2 on Sat, Sep 28, 13 at 1:06
|Did you use the Monocoat Oil with the Part B which is the drying accelerator? When I bought the product I bought the one with the accelerator not even thinking about it. I like the idea of it drying/curing faster but am worried it will do something to the finish that I may not like.|
|novice - I did not use a drying accelerator. You could call the manufacturer and ask whether it might affect the finish, if there's no mention of it on the website.|
|I would also love to see pics. My dd has one of these tables and we now have a grandchild who will probably be staining it. |
I would love to tell her about this process.
|Thanks for the pics! have you had any trouble with food getting stuck in the seams? |
I'm thinking about getting the similar boulangerie table (http://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod370026&categoryId=cat1990024) and I read a bad review saying they had a lot of trouble getting food out from between the boards
|I just saw these follow up posts! Below is a recent picture of my table after 3 years or so from the first Monocoat application. It looks a little lighter and a littler "dryer" now, and I just ordered a can of the Rubio Refresh to refresh the finish. Still no stains or water marks, and the finish has held up great. |
smleary - I can see that crumbs might get stuck in the seams. It would be easy to scrape them out though.
I've also included pictures of the Monocoat oil application on an RH side table I just bought. I used the accelerator this time, which required a bit more control over timing during the application process. I don't think I'd order it again unless I really needed the faster curing time.
The pic shows the oil on only the bottom and top shelves, so you can see a difference between these and the unfinished middle shelf. 7 days later and it's still pretty dark but should lighten up a bit with time to match the coffee table I oiled a few years ago.
Dining table 3 years after Monocoat application:
RH Dutch Industrial side table, partially oiled:
|I am thinking of ordering the Balustrade coffee table from RH, do you think I would have to use oil on it? Or is it mainly just for the dining room tables? If anyone has the Balustrade table, any advice would be greatly appreciated!|
|Glad2be - I haven't seen the balustrade table. If it's unfinished, you should be able to use oil on it. Make sure you clean it first! I had to wipe down the side table several times before I thought it was clean enough for the oil. |
As to whether you need to, I think that depends on how it will be used. We place drinks and food on our coffee table so I wouldn't want an unprotected surface, but your experience and use may be different. There are also other protective finishes you could use instead of oil, like Briwax, depending on your preference. For me, using wax on frequently used/cleaned tables leads to more upkeep than the oil has.
|Thanks so much! I'll have to think about it! :)|
|Just picked up the trestle table at an outlet store, some minor wear. I need to sand it a bit but it looks like the color may come off as where it is scuffed it is a lighter color underneath. I am wanting to smooth the top a bit as it is a bit splintery. Juddgirl or anyone with experience, after sanding did you apply any sort of stain to match the original color?|
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